gigantic
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Posts posted by gigantic
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I'm currently running a pair of the new Fosi Audio ZA3 as mono blocks to drive the woofers on my horn speakers and by next week, I'll have another pair to drive the tweeters. I've been rolling op amps in them and so far, I'm deeply impressed with the SQ. There is zero noise and the separation and imaging are exquisite with MuseS02 op amps in them. Next week, I'll also get a pair of Sparkos op amps to try, and will be able to a/b them. I'd previously been using a pair of Alesis RA150 mono blocks on the woofers and an Emotiva Mini-x a100 on the tweeters; they're great amps that performed well, but after a couple weeks with the ZA3, I'll concede that the class D amps are more betterer.
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3 hours ago, Speed said:
Would a simple wooden stand for the new horn and driver, allow it to sit right on top of the LS cabinet? I think it would look pretty cool, if it's feasible...
the horns and PEQ settings are optimized to work with a baffle, so I suspect the results would be less than optimal.
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On 3/20/2024 at 2:59 PM, wuzzzer said:
Klipsch has a Heritage dealer locator that lists what speakers they have set up. When I typed in Peoria, the closest place that came up that has LaScalas is Sundown One in Springfield.
it's worth noting that the Heritage Dealer Locator is woefully out of date. of the 7 Heritage dealers listed in my area, only 3 are open or carry home stereo gear. Of those three, only two have any Heritage product, one store has 2 pair of Forte, the other has the full Heritage line. Still, it seems they've updated it since I last checked it a couple years ago and dropped some of the out of business dealers.
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1 hour ago, ThomBoh said:
So, if I'm understanding right, if one wanted to go the DSP route, it will absolutely be required to have three separate stereo power amps, one for each frequency range? (e.g. one amp driving left hf and right hf, one amp driving left mids and right mids, and one amp driving left lf and right lf)? Can't get away with, say, two amps?
Even if you don't factor in the cost of tri-amping, it sounds like the inclusion of the DSP electronics will mean that these new versions will likely cost significantly more than the AL5 and AK6, which are already very expensive. Exciting but kind of terrifying in that sense.
Also, will AL5/AK6 owners be able to upgrade the active DSP xover, or only be able to upgrade the horns and drivers?
There are very good Class D amps available for under $250 each. You could use inexpensive amps to drive the woofers, a nice amp for the mods and more affordable amps for the tweeters. You could capably Tri-amp for well under $1200 or less.
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38 minutes ago, MMurg said:
Nothing has changed with the design of La Scala bass bin or the LF driver. It's how Roy is using that response with the DSP that makes the difference. He's doing something he couldn't do in a reasonably sized passive network. The native response of the La Scala bass bin has a big hump in it. Because of this, when that response is matched to the mids/highs, the -3 dB point for the bass point ends up in the low 50s. By using the DSP to flatten out that hump (i.e. cutting it down) and then matching the mids/highs to that flatter bass curve, the -3 dB point for the bass point ends up in the mid 40s. I've heard the AL5 in that Hope lab listening room before. The low end of the bass wasn't great. This updated La Scala had really satisfying bass in that room. Many fewer people will hear this new La Scala and immediately think that they need a sub to go with it.
Not boosting it down low, but attenuating from about 60 Hz to 300 Hz? Fascinating. I'd love to see the PEQ figures on that, not that it's useful to me, I have a completely different alignment, but it is interesting just the same. There are a number of us elsewhere who are using DSP, but we're getting more extension via DJK mods and unauthorized drivers. I'm particularly curious about the phase and group delays, whether Roy is using 6dB Linkwitz-Riley filters and natural driver roll-off, steeper slopes or a quasi-linear phase alignment. That can have a profound effect on imaging and soundstage presentation. All good stuff!
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interesting. I'm curious to see the Frequency/Phase and impulse responses on them. It's impressive that Roy has managed to get them down to 45Hz without porting.
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23 hours ago, jjptkd said:
More pics
Remarkable
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On 1/13/2024 at 11:24 AM, wuzzzer said:
If the gaskets on the midrange drivers are original, they could also be contributing to what you’re hearing if they’re dried out. Might as well replace them while you’re at it.
On 1/13/2024 at 12:07 PM, GabeS said:Is there a good source to buy the diaphragm/gaskets?
I don't see them listed on the JEM website.
GSCrites speakers sells replacement gaskets. This, is the most likely source of the distortion you're hearing. before you spend another cent, replace them.
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the word you are looking for is "voila".
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I've had really good results using Benjamin Moore Advance Hybrid Alkyd Acrylic enamel.
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57 minutes ago, Dave MacKay said:
I used Benjamin Moore “Advance” Interior Alkyd paint (black, in “Pearl” finish) for the doghouse of my La Scalas. Because I didn’t have a paint sprayer, I brushed it on. It was an excellent match for the Rustoleum Satin “Canyon Black” spray paint that I used on the tweeter and squawker horns. I’m pleased with how it turned out.
Benjamin Moore paints are very good.
I used it for everything but the mahogany trim for the build that I detailed elsewhere. It takes about 5 days to cure, but then it is quite durable. I then clear coated it with automotive 2K poly, but it probably wasn’t absolutely necessary.
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On 9/26/2023 at 7:01 PM, Simpson said:
Hi everyone. I have a pair of very well-loved (read ‘totally beat up’) Lascalas. In preparation for putting a veneer on them, I have had to build up every edge to a right angle as the edges were rounded. I’ve been using Bondo, working for a very long time, and they’re finally starting to look square. 😊 I’m not very skilled at working with veneer, so I’d like to paint them in the interim, until I can get the cash together to have someone veneer them for me. I would be grateful if anyone could recommend a paint (black) and process for making them look nice-ish for now. I saw an earlier thread that had the following picture and would love it if I could get to that place. Thank you!
I’ve had extremely good results using Benjamin Moore Advance hybrid alkyd/latex enamel. I restored a pair of H700 Heresy decorators with it and used it on my current speakers. It’s better sprayed than brushed or rolled.
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Heresy IV will run circles around Heresy I: the tweeters are far superior, the mid horn is better, as is the woofer and the crossover network is better tuned. Further, the H-4 offers better bass extension- the ported cabinets dip into the 40Hz range, compared to the mass roll-off of the H1, which is above 50Hz. That said, your Heresy 1 have a lot going for them: the cabinets are made of real wood and many prefer the K55 squawker driver to anything Klipsch has used since. There are things you can do to make them better: first and foremost, the gaskets between the mid horn and driver are dried out and are probably adding sibilance to the sound- it's super easy to replace them. Your capacitors are likely due for a refresh- even if they measure well, their ESR has probably drifted into undesirable territory. It's not difficult to replace them yourself and there are options if you don't want to break out the soldering iron. you may or may not find improvements in replacing the tweeter diaphragms, they are a known weak link in vintage heritage speakers. Lastly, your cabinets would respond well to being refinished- I've seen far worse. without delving into mods, refreshing your Heresy 1 will improve the sound, but the Heresy Four is better in nearly every conceivable way.
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If your capacitors are 55 years old, they're likely due for replacement. Even if they measure correctly for capacitance, their ESR is likely well out of spec. The resonance could be due to the gasket between the K-55 and the horn- at their age, they're likely dried out, but in my experience that often expresses as sibilance and distortion, but ymmv. Definitely replace the gaskets and definitely recap your networks. It may or may not solve your resonance issues, but it will definitely improve the sound. If the resonance is coming from the horns themselves, there are ways of taming that, but I'm not sure that we're allowed to discuss those things here.
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I have one from when they were delivered with Ortofon Red cartridges- I loathed that cart, but really enjoy the deck with an Ortofon Blue. I expect the Sumiko Rainier cartridge is a a better OEM selection. After trying different mats, I ended up with a clear acrylic platter and I'm quite pleased with the whole package. While I do occasionally miss the Denon DP-37 automatic TT that I had from the late 80's through the early oughts, especially the automatic lift and return part, the SQ of the table and cartridge is excellent.
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4 minutes ago, Invidiosulus said:
That Dayton DSP-408 we got is also designed to run on 12v for car audio.
That too.
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On 2/17/2023 at 6:55 PM, Coytee said:
Clever thinking! I had not thought of a car unit at all!!
Still have the 110 volt issue with active crossover (unless you can configure the little amps?) I know nothing about this stuff, I'm old school, plug in CD/DVD player, preamp, active, to amps...call it a day.
That process might not work BUT.... got to thinking about how could it work with 110 power...
Trying to simplify the complexity.... wondering if one could get a (example) 12-3 wire (or maybe 10-3 because of distance). use a double breaker BUT, at the end in the field.... use black/white as one 110 volt leg, use red/white as the OTHER 110 volt leg so now you have two lines of 110 volt, both sharing the same common.
I get accused sometimes of over-thinking things.
get an automotive crossover. @THD+N has used a PRV crossover in a home audio setting, but it would be perfect for your application.
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For the amount of money you're spending, you'd be better served with a tube amp.
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I'm currently bi-amping with tubes on the mid and tweeter horns and SS on the direct radiating woofer; I'm using a Schiit Sys passive pre, Dayton Audio DSP408 crossover, Glow Audio Amp Two and Emotiva Mini-X A100.
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I've just started using a Dayton Audio DSP-408 and am quite pleased with its performance, bi-amping my speakers with an Emotiva Mini-X A100 on the woofers and a 15WPC PP EL-84 tube amp driving the horns; it's a great value. Many others are using Mini-DSP crossovers and I've seen a thread or two about using car audio actives, though I was less than impressed with the Timpano Audio TPT-SP4-BT.
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I have three Klipsch Pro Ti Drivers available for sale in excellent condition, $50 each plus shipping. First up is a K-66E mid driver, Pulled from a Klipsch KP362 flying array speaker
SPECIFICATIONS: 16 Ohm Throat Size 1"
25.4mm Nominal Impedance* 16ΩMinimum Impedance 14.8 ohm @ 3.3 kHz
Power Rating** 80 W (AES) Resonance 0.58kHz
Usable Frequency Range 1200Hz-20kHz
Recommended Crossover 1.2 kHz / 18 dBkHz
Sensitivity*** 105.8
Magnet Material Ferrite Magnet Weight 34oz, 0.96kg
Voice Coil Diameter 2" / 50.8mm
Voice Coil Former Polyimide
Diaphragm Material Titanium
DC Resistance (Re) 11.9Ω
MOUNTING INFORMATION Overall Diameter 5.25", 133.4mm
Driver Volume Displaced 0.01 cu.ft., 0.5 liters
Depth 2.2", 55.9mm
Weight 4.7 lbs, 2.1 kg
$50 Plus shipping
Next is a Klipsch K-68-A, used in K-301 and cinema speakers
* Voice coil: 1.75" (44mm)
* used in KPT1201, a professional theater surround speaker.
* 1-3/8 threaded connector and 1" throat
* Diameter: 2.75" (70mm) * Length: 4.25" (108mm)
* Impedance: 8 ohm, DCR: 6.5 ohm
* Titanium dome with edge wound voice coil on Kapton former
* Driver has been fully tested and is in proper working order with no issues.
* DCR: 6.3
$50 Plus shipping
Finally, I have a Klipsch K-792, the pro version of the K-79 Tweeter and horn used in many Heritage speakers from the mid 80's on. It was pulled from a KP-362 Flying Array speaker.
2 - 20Khz linearity (5db channel) @ 1m/axis/mls stimulus,
efficiency around 100dB/w/m,
Fs=1100Hz.
Diaphragm Diameter 2.188″ (55.58mm)
Voice Coil Diameter 1″ (25.4mm)
Nominal Impedance 8 ohms
DC Resistance 6.2 ohms
Dome Material Titanium
$50 plus shipping
Please contact me to purchase, PayPal, Venmo and Apple Cash are accepted.
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The Klipsch K604 is the pro version of the K602 used in speakers like the Forte II and Chorus II, but with a 1-3/8 screw fitting for drivers like the venerable Atlas Sound K-55 and A-55-G driver, as well as a number of pro drivers used by Klipsch, JBL, PRV Audio and more. Use these to replace cracked squawkers in your KP362 arrays or fit them to your Fortes to use the K-55-V Soldered Lug Terminal drivers for classic heritage sound. $120 plus shipping.
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SPECIFICATION Throat Size 1", 25.4mm Nominal Impedance* 8Ω Minimum Impedance 7.9 ohm @ 2.9 kHz Power Rating** 80 W (AES) Resonance 0.54kHz Usable Frequency Range 1200Hz-20kHz Recommended Crossover 1.2 kHz / 12 dBkHz Sensitivity*** 105.1 Magnet Material Ferrite Magnet Weight 34oz, 0.96kg Voice Coil Diameter 2" / 50.8mm Voice Coil Former Polyimide Diaphragm Material Titanium DC Resistance (Re) 6.1Ω MOUNTING INFORMATION Overall Diameter 5.25", 133.4mm Driver Volume Displaced 0.01 cu.ft., 0.5 liters Depth 2.8", 71.1mm Weight 4.7 lbs, 2.1 kg Mounting Thread 1 3/8 in. 18 ext. Mounting Holes Diameter N/A Mounting Holes B.C.D. N/A
Randy will no doubt be along shortly to correct any incorrect data.-
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I totally fell for an Instagram ad that seemed wholly targeted at me: Held By Trees’ Solace, featuring alumni of Talk Talk, Mark Hollis, Pink Floyd, Dire Straits and the Pretenders’ Robbie McIntosh, an instrumental LP that covers Post Rock, Prog, Jazz, Blues & Rock. Given the pedigree it boasts, the record is very dynamic, coming alive in the pauses and spaces between, deftly summoning the vibe of Talk Talk’s epic Spirit of Eden, while avoiding being a mere simulacrum of what’s come before. I’m enthralled.
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LsScala port mod
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Hear me out: Passive radiator and PEQ: flat response from 23Hz to 20Khz.