colterphoto1

nice link Indy! Thats a beautifully engineered system. I tried looking up the components, couldn't find any of the KP6...series on the Klipsch website, proving once again how improved the site is!?!?!?

uugggh, those SAE folks must be terribly British or wannabes. Here's some examples Equalisation, analogue, centre channel, etc. etc, etc. Yer right, the advice is pretty simpleton. This is a University level course???

Hey Dr. Who, I've been reading your 'signature' for some time and just had to comment... "It's territorial with a soundboard...like if you're mixing and some dude you know that sucks at it comes up and just starts pushing buttons and twisting nobs...you're like "get off my board before i smack you!" Say you're painting something and someone comes over and starts painting on your picture without your permission, they aren't making it look better, though they probably think they are...you just wanna shove your brush up their nose and throw the soundboard out the window!" Being an ex-mix jock myself, we always had our mix stools ready to clobber any bum who would come near the rack or desk with a sloppy drink or bad attitude. I remember an early lesson was that when an ego-centric guitarist or vocalist would keep pushing you for more effects or monitors, to just give it to em hard. Turn em waaaay down in the main mix, then just deafen the dude with tons of slap-back, doubler, whatever and lots of monitor volume. He'd be happy and the audience could just enjoy the nice normal house mix. It's like when I'm photographing an event like a wedding and all these other blokes come swarming around with their little digital point-n-shoots. I just pretend to hand em my $10,000 Hasselblad and ask nonchalently "will ya take one with my camera?" YYYEEEOOOOWWW!

are you speaking of WAR HERO John Kerry? Sorry couldn't resist - he he!

The problem now is not the immediate shorts caused by the liquid, but any subsequent corrosion caused by said liquid. I speak from experience because an ex-cat of mine peed on my laptop computer one day. dribbled down and absolutetly ate up the mother board. So you've got to get inside and get that syrupy liquid and sticky residue outa there! WD-40 might work, but is there a local electronics shop that can disassemble and ultra-sonically clean the main PC board?? They may be the only real fix available. May not be economically viable. I do not recommend leaving this unit plugged in/on if you leave the home for any reason. there may be a fire danger!!!! Good luck

I dunno, but have a bunch made and sell some to us please?!?!??!?

Ok, Smilin', I'm IN! I'll actually save $$ by using a vertical Cornwall on it's side. How, well now I won't be able to put a flat screen directly over the fireplace because it won't be aligned with centre Cornwall. And because I will have already agreed to put huge furniture in front of by beautiful stone hearth, I may as well just set the 35" direct monitor on top of the centre Cornwall. Is there a way to 'magnetically shield' this speaker by installing a (I think it's called a bucking magnet) to reverse the polarity of the magnetic field? email or PM me Smiling, Chitowns not too far away. I'll help ya clear out the closet, ok??? Michael.

Hey Indy, Calliope Sound did the PA for the Ramones waaay back when at the Vogue Nightclub (way cool old theatre turned into rock n roll bar) We had an MCM stack for the house, AND ANOTHER MCM STACK AIMED DIRECTLY AT THE BAND FOR SIDEFILL MONITORS. They wanted it LOUD and we sure gave it to them! We deafened those punks! I miss the old days! Michael

Thanks Artto, unfortunately its not what I wanted to hear. I was hoping that a few, well placed traps could help my room. I'm willing to do so room modification to improve sound, but I cannot justify covering large areas of my homes beautiful wood paneling with massive sheets of fabric and plywood bass traps as I've seen in some of the articles you've pointed out. I would not be able to obtain a seal between the sides of the trap and the wood paneling because I can't apply sealant to paneling. Is there some type of all-purpose free-standing trap I could construct, maybe as a low table behind sofa or room divider? I'm thinking maybe something around 5-6 feet long, up to 4 feet high and between 6-18 inches wide. It could possibly be stuffed with the dense fibreglass and each side could be a different thickness 'membrane' to help trap broadband sounds. If I'm willing to lose a large window area, could I construct a 6x6 foot trap arrangement that would be braced within the window opening. It would be behind a curtain, but I don't think that would affect the low-freq control we're talking about here. Artto, I'm not looking for an easy, cheap fix to a problem I'm not sure exists. I'm just trying to get an understanding for what can be done to improve an average home listening room. Thanks, Michael

agree to previous post. If ya want big Heresy's, just get Cornwalls- THEY ROCK!

Okay, I give up. I finally gave my Cornwall/RC7 setup a really good listen and I CAN hear the timbre difference. And here I was all this time mainly worrying about the efficiency match-up and the dispersion characteristics of centre channel. (although on Dolby website, they do say that in HT applications, centre is 70% of the sound) My tests- quite simple and unexpected really. I was running Yamaha test tone (pink/white noise, not sure which) to rebalance system after bypassing my dead rear channel amps. When the test noise went from L-C-R, I could CLEARLY hear that it went from a horn (mid squawker) to metal cone (RC7 xover difference) back to horn- UUUGGGHHH. Then very late last night I was listening to what one would think a horrible test source, Guns N Roses Use Your Illusion I on VHS! The guitarist Slash does some terrific runs across the huge stage in TokyoDome and the sound pans to follow his run. Especially when he was holding a chord or feedback tone, it was clearly evident that there was some bothersome change in the sound. Now the question. I can't imagine using another Cornwall for a center, as my new setup (thanks to Indy and Artto) will be along the LONG wall in my hearth room, where the TV will probably be changed out to flat screen or projector since the monitor will be against the massive stone hearth. So I need as slimline centre channel speaker as possible, alternately a long thin cabinet that I can suspend from ceiling/hearth line angled severly downward. Seems like no 'heritage' speaker fits this bill so I might be up for a custom project. I'm up for the electronics and woodworking. Any good designs out there? Would it be heresy (pun intended) to use a combination heritage low end with a tractrix horn setup to reduce the depth dimension, so long as the crossover is close to my Corns? Thanks gang, I'm slowly getting the hang of this heritage/reference thing. Michael

yeah Indy, that's what I really disliked about the Denon, you had to toggle through all the source selections to get the one you want. Also a few years back, that same switching made some kind of relay mechanical noise within the unit. I'll stick with Yamaha! Probably get the 2400! wooohhhooooo Michael

Thanks for the input Edwin. Yes, I'm planning on getting one of the Yamaha receivers that has the 9 band parametric eq with calibrated mic. However, after reading artto's posts for several months, I'd rather get the room right if at all possible. It sounds like eq is only a partial solution to boomy bass. I wonder if the receiver gives a channel of eq for each of 6 amp channels or just the main two? ?? It would also be nice if you could run the eq 'program' then still get in and tweak the eq a bit for personal taste. Yes, placement is going to have to be based on aesthtics, I won't be able to move the Cornwalls very much other than scooting them out from back wall a bit.

How bout these for some MONSTER SUBS! We used to tour with the Klipsch MCM stack and it was a thunderous sound! THis guy has 6 of the MCM LOW BINS for sale! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=47094&item=3743906311&rd=1 Rock on! Michael

I have a Stereophile test CD STPH002-2 1990, which contains 11 tracks with 'warble' tones in each of 1/3 octave bands from 200 Hz down to 20 Hz. In conjunction with a ratshack SPL meter, seems to do a decent job of finding offending frequencies. The other tracks are very carefully recorded musical tidbits that are handy for tracking down other system problems. I'd recommend it highly. po box 5529 Sante Fe. NM 87502

I've done some reading on the bass traps subject. Hey, it's practically required reading in this Forum per artto! Read Edwin's and others so I understand the theory of bass building up and controlling it via the suprisingly heavy membranes of various sized traps. Question: How do I determine which frequencies need 'taming' and how do I determine which size/membrane thickness trap to build to make the necessary correction. I'm absolutely certain some of this is required in EVERY listening room (thanks artto) but obviously wish to keep it to a minimum for the sake of aesthetics. I do have test tones and ratshack SPL meter. Is more testing equipment necessary to locate the offending frequencies? How do I engineer the bass traps? Thanks, Michael

good stuff HDBR! We'll miss you around here, but Godspeed on your journey! Totally agreed on satin finishes in Poly. I think Deft makes a good one reasonably priced. Use several coats, sand between, STIR CONSTANTLY and gently, and DON"T SHAKE! Another hint with poly is to steel wool (or ScotchBrite- that's the green plastic 'scuffer' pads) between coats to remove any dust globs that settled on that coat. Then use a tack cloth (cheese cloth impregnated with linseed oil, I believe- find it at paint stores) to pick up all the dust. Also work in a 'clean room' with no vacuuming during the drying process. I always mist the air and floor in my shop prior to painting to settle all the dust and keep from kicking any more up. Let each coat fully dry before preceeding, especially important during these humid seasons. Have fun and take your time. Enjoy the results! Post pix when done please!

I don't know if any of the Omnimount swivel wall mounts is stout enough for the RB5's. You're talkig a pretty big cabinet there. Do yours have the bass port in the back? If so, you'll want to take the position of the RB5 from the ceiling and wall corners pretty carefully to avoid port 'boom'. Sorry, I don't have any suggestions other than to fabricate a bracket engineered for your room and tastes.

Hey IndyKlipschFan and friends, the time is finally upon me. After years of faithful service (I burnt out two remotes) my Yamaha RXV850 (yeah, I know Dolby pro-logic only) is finally dying a slow death. The balance knob got so scratchy that left channel shorts out occasionally. Then one rear channel amp went out, then after I strapped both rear speakers to one channel, they started sounding really bottomy after a few weeks. Now occasionally the unit just powers down. Theres no short in any speaker that I can tell and all the speaker leads are clean, no stray hairs. So it's now going to the repair shop and to the basement. Decisions, decisions! I'm very happy with Yamaha sound and features. I really like last year's 3300 or this years 2400. Features I need are Dolby Digital, 5.1 min, 6.1 okay, about 80-100 wpc, 2nd zone/rec out (I like to record LP to Cass or CD's while watching HT), would really like pre in/out on mains for eq loop, pre outs on everything in case I want more power later. Oh, yeah, the speaker compliment (for now) is Cornwalls L+R, RC7 centre, RB3II for surrounds (I finally ditched the Definitive Bi-polars), possibly have some RB 5II's coming as well. Room is 26x 17 and I'm switching the system to a long wall (see Indy, I DO listen), sweet spot about 12 feet from wall. Anything else I should look for feature-wise? Does anybody out there have any preferences other than Yamaha? I don't think I'm ready for the separates route yet. Maybe someday when I do a dedicated 2ch music setup. Thanks for any hints. Michael

DONT use a poly with stain or any other color in it. You will kill the grain of your beautiful walnut. BLO per original spec or Poly would get my vote. If you select Poly for it's wear characteristics, I'd maybe shy away from high gloss. If you get a semi-gloss finish poly, make sure to keep it stirred as you're using it. You've got to keep the fine grains (that create the duller finish) in suspension. Don't overstir any product or you'll introduce air bubbles which may not find their way out of your final finish. My vote- BLO, you can always add more! If you put on poly and don't like it, you've got to sand the stuff off! Hope this helps!

The only major change for now will be the receiver. With the same compliment of speakers, couldn't I get 'close' with any acoustical controls?

IMHO, most insurance is nothing more than legalized gambling. You are betting your premium against the cost of something catastrophic happening. Unfortunately, just like Vegas, the odds are stacked in favor of the house. Just look at the skyline of any major city in America. Who owns the big buildings? Insurance Companies- proving that on average they will win. The only reason to purchase insurance is if you absolutely cannot deal with the result of the catastrophic incident. Extended warranties on consumer electronics are a major profit maker for stores like Best Buys, et al. That is why employee policy is that they must make an attempt to sell it to you. While I'm rambling, how bout parking meters? Am I betting my $.25 against the $17 fine that I'll get back in time?? Just an observation.

Tom, looking very nice so far. WIth the angled joints, are you just glueing, tagging with nail gun, or are you countersinking screws with glue blocks, or using biscuit joining?

UUUGGGHHH POWER!!! Nice saw Tom! Bigger blade and saw deck will give much straighter cuts than the plastic $99 jobbies! Rock on! In the words of Norm Abrams - "remember there is no more important rule that this- always wear safety goggles and ear protection when operating power equipment."

Thanks bunches Gil, nothing better than a lengthy 'white pages' read! I'm considering changing my Cornwall horns out to Tractrix design. Do you have any experience on this mod or know anyone who has done it successfully? It might also take changing out the mid driver and possibly crossover points, so I don't want to get in over my head. Michael