tigerwoodKhorns

---------------- On 2/9/2005 3:52:29 PM Colin wrote: By the way, looking at my spreadsheet of Heritage sales... ---------------- Do you track Academys? What is teh range for them (I have one in excellent shape). Chris

---------------- On 2/8/2005 6:08:23 PM edwardre wrote: Two Acadamy's currently on ebay, closing in a few hours, both currently in the mid-$200's. Both are not mint, but are not trashed either......sounds like a deal for the refurbisher(s) among us........sounds like an 'esnipe' opportunity........ ---------------- Did someone here pick up these two Academys? (not the water damaged one!) The price was right! Chris

---------------- On 2/8/2005 6:08:23 PM edwardre wrote: Two Acadamy's currently on ebay, closing in a few hours, both currently in the mid-$200's. Both are not mint, but are not trashed either......sounds like a deal for the refurbisher(s) among us........sounds like an 'esnipe' opportunity........ ---------------- Did someone here pick up these two Academys? (not the water damaged one!) The price was right! Chris

---------------- On 2/8/2005 7:56:49 PM Klipschfoot wrote: ---------------- Q: Is that water damage on the back? Thank you. answered on: Feb-08-05 A: We recently moved to a new house and the speaker has been in storage, but as far as I know it does not have water damage. Thanks. ---------------- How sleazy can you get? This thing is really water damaged, not just a little. Ebay is based on an honor system. If you have no honor, you should not be doing business there. This seller really pisses me off!! Chris

---------------- On 2/8/2005 6:08:23 PM edwardre wrote: Two Acadamy's currently on ebay, closing in a few hours, both currently in the mid-$200's. Both are not mint, but are not trashed either......sounds like a deal for the refurbisher(s) among us........sounds like an 'esnipe' opportunity........ ---------------- One is the one that I posted as an alternative to mine. This will be interesting. An auction just ended a few days ago for a black Academy that was in good condition, but had holes drilled in it for mounting. Chris

---------------- On 2/8/2005 9:06:09 AM dr-dezibel wrote: Some of my friends say my speakers are old fashioned and even out of date. I brought my Heresys to my local dealer and did some listening with the actual reference speaker line from rf25 up to the rf7. The dealer wanted to convince me to trade the Heresys for the rf7. After having connected a sub I miss nothing on them and in the midrange they are even better than rf7 (IMO). Now I ask you people: can the Heresy keep up with the newer speakers in stereo and HT? They are still in production, so can I recommend them to others without regret? ---------------- My K-Horns were desinged 60+ years ago and they still sound pretty good. My tube amp is 40 years old and sounds better than my $4,000 Denon 5800 receiver. You figure it out. Chris

---------------- On 2/8/2005 1:56:17 PM rplace wrote: I have my original box and packing and would send mine out for inspection first so the other guy does not go without a speaker. I would sell my black one if I could come to terms with you...how much you want? ---------------- I want $650 for mine. I saw a water damaged one go for $650 in December, I figured that mine is not damaged so it is worth the price. Check out this auction ending today: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5748915538&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT If you don't win it, we can discuss mine if you like. Chris

---------------- On 2/8/2005 10:24:29 AM rplace wrote: ...My trade off of paying your shipping and sending you my Black one first is still good if anyone out there has a Walnut or Oak... ---------------- Huh? Are looking to buy an oak Academy? I have an oak one that I am willing to sell (don't have a need for it anymore) that is in excellent condition, but I want a lot more than $400 for it. I have some good pieces of Styrofoam to package it with so that it does not get ruined in the mail. Chris

---------------- On 2/7/2005 6:43:27 PM DeanG wrote: The problem with the swivel top idea is that you can't just turn the top -- because the back corner of the top hat won't clear the corner. ---------------- I think that AL K has the only really workable idea by building a shorter squaker. I don't have AL's expertise and can only design mechanical solutions. I was going to fabricate bracing and a swivel for the squaker and tweeter of my horns but the squaker is too long to swivel very much if the speaker is up against the wall. I just looked under the top and there is some room to rotate, but not much. With false corners, you can get the speaker approximately in the corner, but still swivel the squaker. After I build my ALK's, I am going to build "corners" that end before the front of the speaker (like figure one in the AES jubilee paper). These things are in my living room so I can't really build complete false corners and expect my wife to not leave me. The bass response will be much better than what I have now and I do have a SW-15 hooked to the center channel out of my Scott LK-48. Chris

---------------- On 2/7/2005 6:08:25 PM silversport wrote: IF that's for real...someone wanted those REAL bad... Bill ---------------- Look at the bid history, a lot of people wanted them badly! Chris

---------------- On 2/7/2005 2:15:06 PM NOSValves wrote: You would gain in the bottom end thump for sure. But you would either go side ways or lose every where else. The big reason is you would be taking a really nice active preamp section of the Scott out of the mix. The Jolida is considered a integrated amp by today's standards but in all reality its a power amp with a source switch and volume control. If you could afford to buy the Jolida for a great deal and try it without selling your existing gear then I would say why not. But if you have to sell I would not bother. Craig ---------------- I can get the Jolida 502B for $600. The problem with not selling any other equipment is that this would be my 6th amp. I have to cut the madness off at some point. Chris

---------------- On 2/7/2005 1:27:56 PM fletcherkane wrote: ---------------- On 2/7/2005 12:42:41 PM cyclonecj wrote: I have to ask how you are connecting these players to your system. If you are using the digital out, you will not hear a difference. However, if using the analog outs, & still cannot hear a difference, then the above posts are right.... you are really lucky! Save your $$$ ---------------- I have been using the digital outs...assumed this was better. Should I try switching to the analog outs? What's the benefit? ---------------- I have an old Denon DCD 1400. I was thinking that if I run digital out to my Denon DCD 5800, its DAC's should make a huge difference. Chris

---------------- On 2/7/2005 12:33:39 PM ooteedee wrote: Are there any DIY Crossover kits for Klipsch? Parts lists? (For the FrankenScala) Is it cheaper in the long run to just buy an old crossover? or one of the new ones I've seen? ---------------- www.alkeng.com Just buy his kit. It will only cost you a few extra bucks rather than trying to get all of the parts separately. Chris

---------------- On 2/7/2005 9:33:51 AM Colin wrote: sounds like a sideways move, maybe you should bi-amp instead... ---------------- That is the info that I need. I don't want to make a sideways move. I assume that it is hard to beat an NOS Valves Scott for about the same $$. I was just wondering if the additional power will add anything. The 502 seems to have a lot of headroom (an sure is pretty too). Chris

I have an NOS Valves Scott LK-48 that I really like. I also have a Dyna SCA 35 that is bone stock and in near perfect condition, but should be rebuilt. I also have a Harmon Kardon dual power supply 630. I found a Jolida 502B for a good price and was wondering if I will notice a difference between it and my Scott. The Jolida has more power but I am not sure that I need more power. I should be able to sell the Scott and the Harmon and yield enough $$ to cover the Jolida. Any thoughts? Chris

I don't remember the movie, but I was so excited in the late 80's after buying my JBL L60's and seeing a manison in a movie that had the same speakers. I was 20 years old and very proud. Chris

---------------- On 2/6/2005 4:38:46 PM DeanG wrote: And I thought I was neurotic. http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/images/smilies/9.gif"> ---------------- Oh yea, I'm nuts!! No argument here. I may just build them with all Solens (including a single 6.8 + a 0.22 for the "7.0" portion) to see what I think. If I feel the need to go for better caps, I can use these parts to build ALK's for my HT system's Belles. Chris PS. But then again, 2 20 uf zens are not that much $$.

OK, now this is really the last ALK question, for now... The 2 Harmony 1.0 uF bypass caps for the 7.0 uF portion of the ALK are going to cost $16.50 shipped and AL stated that this is the least critical part of the circuit. Al also said "I threw the Harmony in there with the Solen to achieve 7.0 uF" Is the Harmony preferred as a bypass or will I get similar results using: A single 6.8 solen; A 6.8 Solen with a 0.22 Solen; A 3.9 + 3.0 Solen; or How about a 1.0 Solen and a 6.0 Solen? What combination is the preferred combo? If I am going to spend $16.50 for two 1.0's, for not too much more, I may just get two 7.0 Auricaps (they match the color of the Hovland). If I buy Zens for the 40 uF (2 20.0 uF's) portion of the circuit, I will order the Harmony bypass, but it seems a waste to just order 2 1.0's from Northcreek. Chris

I am bumping this to the top because I am looking for an answer to Dean's question. I thought that the 100 hz rolloff happened when you just sealed the backs up to point of the built in grills (as in Dean's question). Trey's response seems to suggest that the 100 hx rolloff happens when you build complete false corners (extending to the front of the speaker). Chris

---------------- On 2/5/2005 11:52:01 PM DeanG wrote: I wouldn't get hung up on the wood Al. Seriously. It just has to be rigid, and strong, with a smooth inside surface. There are some great suggestions in this thread, and I like ALL of them better than wood! What a great forum. ---------------- After posting my last response, I looked at the picture taken down the throat of the horn and realized just how difficult a wood horn would be. I agree with Dean. A fibergalss horn with a rigid structure should do the trick. Fiberglass should not ring like metal and probably will not need to be dampened. Is there some property of wood when used in horn design that I am missing? Chris

---------------- On 2/5/2005 3:19:49 PM 3dzapper wrote: Making a male mold of the horn portion itself should present no real problem. I know people who have made a "plug" of a boat hull and built their own boats. You could build it yourself with standard marine resins and cloth using your prototype for a female pattern. For the horns themselves there is no need for cloth or mat since there is no structural load. A "chopper gun" could build one up in minutes and produce a finish like that of a fiberglass bath tub. Another advantage of the chopper gun is the ability to adjust the density of the plastic/fiber ratio to minimize resonance. A local boat builder might even make horns cheaply with the left over resin from a lay-up rather than throw it away. Rick ---------------- Actually, Rick's idea is even easier than my idea above. The entire horn, including the transition can be made of fiberglass (if that is an acceptable material). Chris PS: My offer does still stand if you want to go that route.

---------------- On 2/5/2005 1:37:09 PM Al Klappenberger wrote: Chris, The top and bottom are intended to be made of wood. How can a watter jet cut wood withut getting it soaked? Besides, the jet would have to be tilted and held a specific angle from vertical and then move in two directions to form the tractrix curve on both sides. It can't be cut flat. I was just handed the name and phone numbers of two outfits locally with CNC machines. I just need to know what kind of quantity I need! Al K. ---------------- Al, If wood is cut on a waterjet, it will get soaked. But, if you cut templates out of aluminum for a router, then router cut the wood, it will not get wet. Without being able to supply a picture, try to picture this. You need to form a compound tractrix curve on the edge. You said that the prototype used a flat piece of wood that was hand filed to achieve the intended results. Picture this. Take the flat piece of wood that you hand filed to form the tractrix curve on each side and "cut" it into 3 thin slices. Each slice is somewhat smaller than the one above such that the edge approximates the intended finished edge. The "slices" are then stacked and the edge looks like "stairs" that approximate the curve. Remember for calculus in engineering school when this method was used to approximate a sine wave using several rectangles. Same theory. Anyway, the edge can then be filled in with fiberglass epoxy. After it dries, very little finishing work will be necessary to achieve the proper tractrix curve (compared to hand filing). I can make you some aluminum templates when I build my ALK's. As far as the transition from the driver to the horn. What about making a plaster model. Cover it with releasing compound and make the transition out of a fiberglass repair kit. (I have owned and restored 60's and early 70's Vettes) This stuff is really easy (but messy) to work with. There is another fiberglas material that is a thick resin that contains the fibers. You just goop it on and let it dry into a very hard finished product (strong enough for repairing big holes in body panels). If you form this into a block with the transition on the inside, you can put screws into the side to attach it to the horn via brackets. This stuff is really strong. The solutions above are both very "backyard mechanic" and "low buck" friendly compared to CNC machining in 3D (or 2D for that matter). Chris

---------------- On 2/5/2005 12:41:47 PM Al Klappenberger wrote: You don't quite realize the detials of the top and bottom plates. They can not simply be cut out of a flat piece of board with a jigsaw without major filing on the edges after it is fastend to the building fixture. That is how I did it BTW. The angle keeps the edges from being flat against the curved swides. The cutter must be held at a precise angle that causes an continuous change in angle as you move from the throat end to the mouth. The other way is to cut them, one at a time, on a band saw with the plates mounted on a wedge. That is how Bruce Edgar suggested it be done in his article. Al K. ---------------- Sorry Al, I didn't see the above. How about this: Make the tops and bottoms out of three 1/8" pieces of wood that approximate the transition when stacked (put two pilot holes in each to achieve the proper alignment). Then you can fill the edge in with fiberglass resin. Give it a quick sanding when it is done and you should have your transition! (This model, as you know, is simpele integration from calculus). Chris

Al, I have access to an Ingersol Rand Waterjet CNC machine at a good frind's shop. I will be in the shop after my caps arrive building, you guessed it, a set of "special" ALK's. I designed, fabricated and installed the relays and interface between the control system and the mechanical devices on the CNC machines for my friend's shop at no cost. I have free reign to build whatever I want there. If you have the specs, I can prep CAD drawings of the top and bottom plates and cut some out. Please note that the waterjet (basically the same machine as the router that Bob mentioned, but a lot bigger and equipped with a 75,000 psi pump and abrasive injector) can only cut objects in 2 dimensions. However, you top and bottom plates appear to be 2D. Do you have a router? I could fab plates of 1/8" steel or aluminum that can be templates. Just run a router around the sides and you have your tops and bottoms (if they are 2-d). The throat piece is a different story. I would fabricate a mold that you can pour material into to make that. Fabricate a mold out of an aluminum billet or other suitable material, and there has to be an easy way to make say, a plaster piece and then coat it with some sort of resin like the stuff used for fiberglass. Or maybe some form of plastic can be used for the piece like the stuff used in hot glue guns. Al, this is kind of funny. My order of stereo projects is: 1. Build ALk's. 2. Build false corners. 3. Build a swivel base for the squaker and tweeter for my K-Horns. You beat me to item 3!! Let me know. I will be there in a few weeks builoding my ALK's and I can cut some pieces out at the same time. Chris

---------------- On 2/4/2005 3:11:22 PM D-MAN wrote: Some guesswork and extrapolations based on PWK's horn designs... PWK had a preference to slightly undersize the back chambers by as much as 15-20% as discussed in his 1970's patent... DM ---------------- D-Man, You have obviously done your homework. My suggestions were just based on the one document that I had reviewed. I look forward to your design. The AES paper has a significant amount of information, but I did not make any drawings and run any calcs to determine if there is enough info to establish the engineering control that I mentioned in my email to you. If you can establish control and get the design right the first time, you will be gold. I am toying with False corners rigth now for my K-horns after I build ALK's but even ignoring the 2-way advantages of the Jubilee design, the elimination of a need for corners makes this design worth pursuing. The K-horns are really a big pain in the butt if you don't have the right room (corners plus seating position at 45 degrees to each). My time is tight, but my offer for CAD work still stands. Let me know. Chris