Search the Community

So I'm watching TV suddenly my bar powers off on its own, tried to power it up from the remote that was unsuccessful, tried from the console on the bar unsuccessfully, unplugged it from the main and plugged it in another outlet and still won't power up, any ideas?

The Cinema 600 repair is the same as the Bar 48.

A friend asked for recommendations on TV bars. He bought the Klipsch BAR 48. His older TV has 2 HDMI inputs and a Toslink out. No ARC. sharp lc-52d62u He has two sources an Amazon Firestick streamer and a Dish Hopper. Optical out from TV to BAR 48 Amazon streamer has video and audio from either TV or Bar 48 Dish Hopper has video and audio on TV but no audio from Bar 48 Swapping cables and inputs makes no difference. Toslink audio direct from Hopper to Bar 48 works. HDMI to TV has video.

I’m using the Bluetooth to play music and the subwoofer isn’t on. Is this normal or a setting I can change? When I swap back to the digital input, subwoofer works fine. Thanks for all and any help.

... and the winner is: the Cinema 600. In short, the Cinema 600 is everything the BAR 48 should have been. The Cinema 600 is a new soundbar. It's been available in the US for several weeks and is just becoming available in Canada. It looks a lot like the BAR 40 or the BAR 48 and while both these soundbars may still be available from some retailers they have been removed from the list of soundbars on the Klipsch website. I think it is safe to say the the Cinema series is the replacement for the BAR series. Here are the specifications and manuals for both products. BAR 48 Sound Bar + Wireless Subwoofer Spec Sheet BAR 48 Sound Bar + Wireless Subwoofer Manual Klipsch Cinema 600 Sound Bar Spec Sheet Klipsch Cinema 600 Sound Bar Manual Specifications are great, as far as they go, but they don't tell you about potential issues so let me clear up that point now. All the BAR 48 issues I identified and reported appear to have been resolved on my Cinema 600 with Surround 3 speakers. That pretty much includes all the BAR 48 issues discussed in these community forums!

Hi - I have just purchased a Klipsch Bar 48. I have enjoyed a lot of Klipsch products throughout the last 15 years and still enjoying most of them, so when I was looking for a soundbar for our living room (wife wanted something clean and simple as opposed to our 7.2 Klipsch system in the basement (: ), Klipsch was the first place I looked. I saw pretty mixed reviews, but mostly based on some folks experiencing connection issues with the early production models. I summed up that Klipsch had corrected the issues with the newer models, and I decided to take the plunge. We've had it now for about a week, and I have to say, I am pretty underwhelmed. It does get loud, but just seems to be really lacking bass and a good punch. Does anyone else feel this way? Now, for my connection, I am using with an Apple TV connected to a 70 inch Samsung 4K LED via HDMI. A Bluray player connected via HDMI. And a Nintendo Switch connected via HDMI. I am using the optical output on the TV to connect to the soundbar. I have not tried using a direct HDMI connection from the TV, but I suppose that could affect audio quality. However, I experience the same underwhelming subwoofer performance when connected directly via bluetooth. I have the subwoofer dialed up maybe just over half way, since cranking all the way seems to get boomy, but doesn't sound good. I should also say, I have not installed the newest firmware - but I just bought it about a week ago, so figured it theoretically have the most recent firmware? Anyway, just thought I would post and get other's thoughts. And yes, I do know the Bar 48 has a sub out, so I suppose I could get another and hardwire. But I do like the wireless functionality in our living room for a cleaner appearance.

Does anybody know how to get a Bar 48 out of demo mode? I found a pdf that explained how to remove the demo mode from Klipsch’s other soundbars but these instructions don’t appear to work on the Bar 48. Is there another way to disable demo mode? The soundbar works with optical, but all other outputs are disabled.

so I tried to update the Bar 48 I think it's half way there cause now when I plug it up I only get these lights now so what am I doing wrong? UPDATE - so when I downloaded the first firmware it's different then I went back & checked it again now it's a different firmware so I'm about to try this & see what happens

Surround 3 manual: Page 4 This is a page from the Surround 3 manual. When I first saw it I just skipped over it. Later, I went back to try and understand what it was trying to explain. I hate to admit it but I'm still baffled! The diagram shows two additional speakers which, I assume, are the Surround 3 speakers. I must therefore assume the diagram is trying to explain what happens if the ((SUR)) button is pressed when the BAR 48 has the Surround 3 speakers connected and is capable of producing 5.1 surround sound. Each time I press the ((SUR)) button on my remote the ((SUR)) light on the BAR 48 toggles on then off. That much is obvious. When the ((SUR)) light is on I can hear sound from the surround speakers. When it's off, I don't. At least that is what I think is happening. The left side of the page appears to describe the effect the ((SUR)) button button has when listening to music. Furthermore, I assume this is a mono/stereo source and that neither the DTS or Dolby Digital lights on the soundbar are illuminated. I think it is suggesting that pressing the ((SUR)) button will produce sound from the surround speakers. 😉 What is VIRTUAL SURROUND? Besides being an oxymoron, what is 5.1 STEREO? What is a 3.1 UPMIX? The right side of the diagram suggests the source is a movie. Since it shows 5.1 DISCRETE, I assume either the DTS or Dolby Digital lights are illuminated and the source may contain 5.1 content. If the ((SUR)) light on my BAR 48 is illuminated, I can hear sound from the Surround 3 speakers. If it is not illuminated, I don't. The diagram suggests that pressing the ((SUR)) button will switch from 5.1 DISCRETE to VIRTUAL SURROUND. So, when I have sound from my Surround 3 speakers, am I listening to 5.1 DISCRETE or VIRTUAL SURROUND?

I have a new bar 48 and when i change channles on my tv it sometimes just plays static. Also does it when going from sreen share to tv 20200411_145957_3.mp4

Hello wondering if anyone could help me with setting up the bar 48. I previously had a r10b that had no issues with the optical connection and would sync right up with the TV remote. This one won't sync with the Samsung TV remote and keeps asking for a model number. It's a brand new Samsung smart TV. So any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Jes

Hi @xenon1, welcome to the Klipsch Community forums. This is the Bar 48 No-Power Repair Thread. You have a completely different issue so you should begin a new thread in this forum for your issue. A good choice for a Subject might be: BAR 48 sub has very low volume. Please provide as many details as possible: How old is your soundbar? Did it ever work at full volume? When did this start happening? Have you updated the firmware? Your post will be much more visible and you will have a better chance that someone can provide an answer.

Just recently got the Bar 48 with subwoofer, and the base is non existent. It shows it's connected. Anyone have similar issues or any recommendations?

I'm using wireless headphones at night... For this , I have to turn off the Bar48 Sound bar , eventually... My problem is ... The Bar 48 . always turn itself back on, whenever I pause and resume the movie with my bluray player . I use the digital connection , since I have an older TV.... Is there anyway to disable the auto power on function , when the Bar48 has been turned off ?

Does anybody know how to get a Bar 48 out of demo mode? I found a pdf that explained how to remove the demo mode from Klipsch’s other soundbars but these instructions don’t appear to work on the Bar 48. Is there another way to disable demo mode? The soundbar works with optical, but all other outputs are disabled.

I just bought a Bar 48 I’m having trouble controlling it with the Arc HDMI on my Sony Bravia tv. Did anyone else have issues with this

Recently Purchased Bar 48 with surround speakers - is there any way to increase the volume of the surround speakers? this feature is noticeably absent from the remote. I did the latest firmware update. Also, the bar always seems to default to virtual surround - why? Regards, Allen

I have followed the directions on updating the Bar 48's firmware to 1.1 exactly multiple times, and I can't seem to get it working. I have formatted the flash drive to FAT32, the update file is in the root directory, I plug the soundbar in while holding power with the USB inserted, and I am still not seeing the status lights. Is this a common issue? Is there a better workaround to update the soundbar? Should I try a different flash drive? I don't know how to be more specific than "I have followed the directions, and it is still not working." Thanks in advance!

he, i'm new here i'm from the netherlands i've just bought the bar 48 my tv,samsung 55inch 7serie conection with optic fiber now i'm lost, how do i get the sound good when i watch netflix a movie sometimes the sound is good i have movie sound bud no voice and when im watch tv, then its all fine, i tryed with HDMI and remove theoptic fiber and also not as it must be with bleutooth total no tv zound or what please help my

Hello people I'm trying to do the firmware upgrade on this soundbar 48 I also have the rear speakers that go with it I have tried it 5 or 6 times using multiple USB sticks to different laptops and I can not get the buttons to flash when inserting a USB drive is there an error with the firmware or am I doing something wrong thank you

Check out this thread: Bar 48 No-Power Repair Thread

I wanted to add my experience getting the Bar 48 back up and working. I can't speak for the Cinema 600 as this thread is for the Bar 48 - so my experience may or may not apply to the Cinema 600. Symptoms: The control panel and lights on the Bar 48 started flickering, then a few days later stopped working all together. Since the speakers still worked, I ignored the issue as an annoyance. However, after another day or two, the speakers became very staticky and then stopped working all together. After disassembling the guts of the Bar 48, I tested the volage on the 5v side of the power supply - being very careful to not touch any of the 120v parts on the same board. I tested the voltage between GND and VDD. It would show 5v, but then rather quickly started to drop. Around 4.6v, the lights would stop functioning. The STB is 3.3 v out (more on this below) and it turns the 24v power supply on and off. I'm guessing that's why my lights stopped working (dropped below 4.6v) but the speakers were still working (still above 3.3v). Eventually, the 5v side dropped below 3.3v and the 24v side turned off - or at least that's my guess. Side note: I don't have the proper tools to fully test capacitors, but I tested C05 and C06 as suggested by @ongtw75. C05 appeared to be not holding voltage, but otherwise seemed okay based on my rudimentary tests. C06 seemed to be fine. I replaced C05 with two 100uF capacitors but I still saw the same issues as described above. I didn't have the patience (or necessary replacement parts) to test the other capacitors, so I just moved on to replacing the entire power supply. Observations and Reverse Engineering: Based on other posts in this thread and my own testing, I am fairly confident the power supply is set up as follows: 5v side: VDD -> GND: 5v which is used to power the control board (lights, buttons, IR remote sensor, bluetooth, etc) STB -> GND: 3.3v when the soundbar is on* STB -> GND: 0.1-ish v when the soundbar is off* 24v side: V+ -> V-: 24v to drive the speakers *STB -> GNC is used to control the 24v side of the power supply. This supplies 3.3v from the control board back to the power supply when the power is turned on, so previous instructions to connect this to 5v+ are incorrect. You can either leave this unconnected or you can use it to trigger a relay (see below). If you really want to wire it to something, wire it to ground, not 5v+. But, if you are not wiring in a relay, the STB wire doesn't do anything so you might as well leave it be. Solution: I ordered this power supply and this relay. The relay is not necessary - but if you want to recreate the original functionality of killing power to the speakers, then the relay will do the trick. Otherwise, you can wire the speakers directly into the 24v side of the power supply and just leave them "on" all the time. Probably not going to hurt much either way, I just like the idea of keeping the functionality as close to original as possible. To keep things clear, I'll refer to the 3.3v STB wire as XXXX (the pattern marked on the wire), the 5v+ wire as Pink, the 5v GND wire as White, and the 24v + and - as Red and Black respectively. To begin, I made sure everything was unplugged. Next, I clipped all the wires connected to the old power supply. You likely want to verify that your colors match mine before you go snip happy. Next, I stripped and connected the AC mains power to the appropriate terminals on the new power supply. Mine was labeled AC-220v. The polarity does not matter. Then, I connected the Pink wire to the 5v+ terminal on the power supply. You will probably want to verify with a multimeter, but mine was the DC2+ terminal on the power supply. This will supply power to the controller board. I also connected a pigtail to the 5v+ terminal as well, which I will connect to a relay (this is optional). Next, I connected the White wire to the 5v- terminal, marked as DC2- on my power supply. Again, I connected a pigtail as well for a relay. At this point, you can test your setup if you want to. The controller board should power on. You should even be able to connect to Bluetooth, etc - but you won't get any sound yet. If you are not planning to use a relay, you can simply connect the Red wire to the 24v+ (DC1+ on my power supply) and the Black wire to the 24v- (DC1-) and you are done. The XXXX wire can be connected to the 5v ground (DC2-) if you really want to - but there is no need to connect it to anything. If you are planning to use a relay, instead connect Red to the NO (normally open) terminal and Black to the COM (common) terminal on the relay. Then connect your 5v+ pigtail to the DC+ terminal on the relay, and the 5v- pigtail to the DC- terminal. Lastly, connect the XXXX wire to the IN (trigger) terminal on the relay. Make sure the relay is set to HIGH switching. Now, whenever the soundbar is turned on, the STB (XXXX wire) will send 3.3v to the relay trigger (i.e. setting it high), causing it to close the "normally open" circuit. You can reference the attached schematic drawing. It doesn't really matter, but just note that the blue wire is 3.3v going from the controller board to the relay (when the soundbar is turned on). Again, STB (aka the XXXX wire) does not need to be connected to any 5v sources (or 24v sources for that matter). circuit (4).svg

Hi Having issues with the bluetooth sub from the Bar 48. Sub stopped working and when I attempt to connect the sub to the sound bar the pairing light does not light up at all. Have tried factory reset of the sound bar no difference and have tried unplugging the sub once again no difference. I have searched trouble shooting the the BAR 48 and have found multiple posts about the power supplies failing, I find this to be more than disappointing seeing the BAR 48 I purchased is less that 2 years old and out of warranty. Seems there is nothing I can do but buy something else to replace it. Guess I should have done my research before buying Klipsch. Live and learn.

KevinB, what is the name of the Klipsch person you're working with? I've an online support request on klipschgroupinc dot com. After a month, I finally got routed to a person named Zach a couple of days ago who at least is familiar with using the BAR 48 5.1 at home. He suggested I replace the BAR 48 and Surround 3 speakers for the third time. Here is the list of problems I wrote to him. Items 1-3 are my main issue - if the BAR 48 5.1 is designed for and meant to use only for Surround Sound during movies, then it is worthless as I enjoy listening to 5.1 from stereo music sources far more often (which I have on my other home theater system). https://support.klipschgroupinc.com/hc/en-us/requests/46437 Zach, 1. The Surround 3 speakers are too quiet, making them useless when listening to Dolby channels and stereo music. My expectation when purchasing the BAR 48 5.1 was to be able to be immersed in sound from all sources, including stereo music CDs/MP3s. Your competitors do not have this problem (Example: my main home theater system is a Denon receiver with 7.2 Klipsch speakers, with which I enjoy being immersed in all sources of videos and music). Klipsch BAR 48 5.1 utterly fails here. 2. When watching 5.1 surround sources (such as Star Wars The Last Jedi on Amazon Prime Video) the Surround 3 speakers produce static on both channels (especially when the bass is booming), again making them annoyingly useless. Again, Klipsch fails. 3. When watching 5.1 surround sources, I have the S3 volume all the way up, but it is still too quiet. I expect "all the way up" to be too loud and I expect I should be able to set the S3 volume to my taste somewhere between the highest and lowest. Klipsch allows on +/- 9dB volume adjustment while the default is far too quiet. Default should be the current max or higher and the volume should be adjustable by at least +/- 20dB. Again, Klipsch fails. 4. The BLUETOOTH on the BAR 48 does NOT connect to any of my sources. The first BAR 48 did not have this problem. I will have to exchange it a third time in hopes of fixing this. Another Klipsch failure. Why do I bother? Klipsch speakers are the best, IMHO, and I would like your powered and electronic systems to be in that category one day. I have a home theater (Denon receiver with 7.2 Klipsch speakers) which I enjoy. I hope one day to enjoy Klipsch powered and electronic systems as much. And another thing. 5. When using HDMI and the TVs volume control, the BAR 48 volume doesn't increase/decrease in small increments like the BAR 48 buttons and BAR 48 remote control do, but by large increments, which means the volume jumps too high or low, which means I then have to use the BAR 48 remote to adjust volume. (As a comparison, I have tried another brand of soundbar and the volume control on my TV remote works exactly the same as the soundbar remote).

I've recently purchased a BAR 48- It arrived at my home on Friday and I wasted no time in setting it up and enjoying it! Its basic sound profile is great (although I wish the Sub *could* deliver a bit more boom when it's cranked up than it does), and my optical and analog connections seamlessly work on it. The Bluetooth is a problem, though. I have the same issue that ebaqui details above: Although my BT capable devices can see the BAR 48 and can even "pair" with it, they cannot successfully connect to it. On my Windows PC, this simply results in my computer claiming it's connected to the BAR 48 but having no capability of playing sound over BT to it, while on my Android Smartphone (Samsung Galaxy S20 FE), I'm informed that I "need an app to use this device". That's how the BAR reacted to Bluetooth when I received it, and I can confirm that it is behaving the same way after I've installed the latest available firmware update (per Klipsch.com). This is really unfortunate and reflects poorly on Klipsch's QC process. I'm a fan of their products and love the sound profile I get out of all my Klipsch speakers, headphones, and soundbars (I upgraded to the BAR 48 from an RSB-3 soundbar that I've had for almost two years and have really enjoyed, which never had any of these BT pairing issues). It's hard to maintain enthusiasm for even a brand you've had historically great experiences with when you have multiple problems with things like this (A bit separate, but I've also had issues with my T5 True Wireless earbuds that seem to boil down to Klipsch not being able to ensure consistent quality in their manufacturing). Bluetooth may be complicated, but if the BAR 48 is truly using BT 4.1, that standard has existed for quite some time and countless consumer electronics have incorporated it without any issue. Most devices that use BT 5.0 don't exhibit any of these issues, either, despite the more advanced standard. Bluetooth has been a fact of life in the world of electronics for something like a decade, and it isn't unreasonable to expect a prestigious brand like Klipsch to competently incorporate it into their products. The fact that there are multiple topics open on this forum to the effect that customers aren't able to use the Bluetooth features on their premium audio products is disheartening. I'm planning on using a 3.5mm signal switch to gain some Bluetooth functionality by patching an Amazon Echo Dot into the 3.5 input along with my record player, so I should ultimately be able to achieve the functionality I want with minimal inconvenience. It's just a shame and a black mark on Klipsch that they're selling these defective units. I'll keep my eyes open for additional firmware updates but I'm not optimistic given how long these products have been on the market that Klipsch is really interested in addressing these problems for the relatively few of us who are experiencing them. I'd try to get the BAR 48 replaced with another, except it seems like the other customers who've tried that have ended up with similar quality issues effecting other elements of their products (such as the Wireless Sub) that work fine on my own unit. These are the types of compromises consumers shouldn't have to make when paying for premium products. Love the sound, but I'm thoroughly disappointed by this issue.