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Regarding replacing the Cinema 600 power supply with the recommended Amazon one, can anyone tell me how the 5 wires connect to the four blue connectors on the board. Already connected the black and red power cables. Thanks.

Would folks here recommend preemptively replacing the power supply inside the cinema 600 soundbar rather than waiting for a possible failure? Can other components (audio processor electronics, etc) be damaged by the power failure (aka brownout failure)? Also, has anyone had issues with the subwoofer power supply? I have a used/refurbished cinema 600 on the way, looking to try to give it the best chance possible. I have extensive electronics repair and soldering experience. Thanks, Peter

My cinema 600 lost power as well, it's out of warranty , so I purchased the above power supply listed in the link. I see the Pic from the original soundbar power supply does anyone have a Pic of the new power supply wired?

Have a Sony X900H 65" TV with HDMI3 connected to a Cinema 600 sound bar. This setup has been in use since 2021 or so. Have a DirecTV HR44 DVR into the HDMI1 on the Sony TV. HDMI-CEC is enabled for everything. For the first 3 years of this setup, everything worked as it should. On the DirecTV remote which is programmed for the Sony TV when you hit volume up, the TV shows an indicator in the corner that the volume is increasing, and the sound through the Cinema 600 goes up. When you hit volume down on the DirecTV remote the volume went down. A few months ago, something changed (nothing we've done). Now when you hit volume up on the DirecTV remote, at first you see the volume begin to go up, but then it goes down, down, down and all the way down to 0 if you keep holding it in. If you hit the volume down, it also goes down. The only way to turn the volume up is to get the SONY or Klipsch remote and use this volume up controls. We instantly thought the volume toggle button on the DirecTV remote went bad since operation worked fine juggling multiple remotes. So we had DirecTV send us a brand new remote. I walked through the on screen pairing process where it detected the TV as Sony and pushed out the Sony IR command set to the new DirecTV remote. To our surprise, the same issue remains even with this new remote. Every time you try to turn the volume up with DirecTV, you see the volume initially start to go up but then it goes down. You can pulsate volume up on DirecTV remote and it just keeps going lower and lower until its completely muted at 0. Break out the Sony remote and you can turn it up. Now what I found is if I cover the IR EYE on the sound bar, this behavior doesn't happen. As long as the sound bar does not "see" the DirecTV's remote, the volume up button will definitely turn the volume up as long as you hold it - all the way to 100% if you can stand it! So I have a bit of an eyesore going on. A piece of paper colored in with a dark marker and packing tape holding it down across the sound bar. Ugly, but it fixed the problem. Does anyone know what could have happened between 2021 and 2024 that causes the Cinema 600 sound bar to interpret Sony Volume Up from a DirecTV remote as volume down, but Sony volume Up from a Sony remote as Volume up? I don't really need the IR eye but it would be nice to not have a big piece of tape on it. If I want to change inputs, I have the iPhone app or the hardware buttons on the sound bar itself.

Thank all you guys for your genius knowledge. I am an untrained novice...a messy solderer at that! And thanks to you all, I got my amazon power supply in to my Cinema 600 and it's working (for the moment....)!!! Since they gave me an 800 (It sounds a bit better and more options for connecting the sub), I am hoping the 600 keeps working and I can give it to my friend for his new place! Did you see Klipsch has come out with a whole new line of soundbars and is sunsetting these? They are made with Onkyo. I hope they have better luck. I experienced good customer service.

Hi there, I had the same issue. I understand that this problem occurs when you connect the STB and the GND. I have the Cinema 600, with the subwoofer and the satellites, and everything stayed on once the soundbar was turned off. I repaired the original (as some sheets indicated) and replaced the 400v 100uf capacitors and the 16v 220uf ones with new ones, since the regulator was OK, and reassembled with the original parts. And everything started working perfectly again.

As we all know, the Cinema 600 has its issues. As long as your soundbar is still under warranty Klipsch is required to provide a warranty replacement. I would open a case with Klipsch product Support. Klipsch may have some suggestions how to resolve your issue and if their recommendations don't help they should provide a/another replacement. Have you reviewed the Cinema 600 support articles?

I have the cinema 600 bought the board and did the swap. It powered right up which was great, BUT the sub now won't power down when the sound bar is turned off. ????

Hey, i hope you could help me with something here. I have received my 2nd Cinema 600 set after i thought the first one was faulty, but the new one has the same flaw and im a bit disappointed. Basically the subwoofer has strange crackling noises during low volume sections of movies and stuff, especially during dialog of men while there is no background noise. I dont really know how to describe it. Like i would constantly tap on the membrane of the subwoofer, like using a shitty microphone on a windy day. At first i thought its a faulty product, but i have received the second set today and it sounds the same. When i turn down the sub volume the cackling sound stays basically the same. Its either there, or not and after a certain volume level its gone.

After my second BAR 48 died, Klipsch gave me a Cinema 600. It had just become available. Unfortunately, it only lasted a few months. I was then given a Cinema 800. Search these community forums for "Cinema 800" to learn more. Both the Cinema 800 & 1200 have reliability issues too but far fewer than the BAR 48 and the Cinema 600 do. Early firmware updates were a disaster but the latest ones are stable. You should be quite happy with your Cinema 800. I am. 🙂

You might want to sit down before you read this: I contacted Klipsch and let them know that I had seen this was an on-going fairly common problem and wondered if they were covering it with an extended warranty. THEY ARE REPLACING MY CINEMA 600 WITH AN 800!!! They no longer make the 600 so they are replacing it with the 800. I'm so gobsmacked, I'm telling myself that I'll believe it when it shows up (in 5-10 business days). I'm wondering if I am delusional when I read the e-mail and receipt for it! That was a short shelf life for the 600 so my guess is they quit making them because of the power supply problem. This problem has to be costing Klipsch a lot. Not to be ungrateful but I hope the 800 has a more robust PS. At least, now I'm ready. If it has the same power supply, when it goes, I have the one I just got from Amazon! LOL! (and bonus: Now I know I need a set or Torx drivers!) Thank you Klipsch!

Here we are in April 2024 and my 2 1/2 year old Cinema 600 has dies, I presume with the same problem. I ordered the power supply. What are the names and size tamper proof screws on the back? I want to put in regualr screws because obviously these things need to be tampered with! - Thanks

I want to also add my voice to everyone here who has thanked Sixer for starting this thread, and to the Cinema 600 owners who joined in to include and clarify the experiences they had with our version of the soundbar. We purchased the Cinema 600 just over 3 years ago. Last month we had the exact same symptoms that have been described here, the audio getting a little static-y, followed by problems powering up and then the lights not coming on and then getting that one red light before the next time after that trying to turn it on and kaput... nothing. A quick internet search brought me to this thread, I read through it, and even though I have absolutely no electronics experience and am not a DIY'er at all, the postings in this thread gave me a clear enough vision and the confidence to tackle the task of retrieving a hardly-ever used set of gifted allen wrenches, disemboweling the sound bar and replacing that good-for-nothing ETOP power supply (although okay, it did make it through 3 years of not very heavy use). Like most here, I got the NOYITO replacement for $15 off Amazon (only 1 left in-stock the last time I saw about 5 days ago, must be a lot of us replacing Klipsch soundbar power supplies). Long story short, my replacement worked, my soundbar is back in business, I am bragging to everyone who listens about my newly acquired electronics skills, and I am grateful to all here who shared. I also did splurge and got an inexpensive multimeter/voltmeter. That came in handy to verify, before unplugging, snipping wires and removing the ETOP, that yes, had 120V AC going in, had 24V DC coming out on the larger output wires, but only had about 3V coming out on the smaller output wires. It also helped me verify the outputs on the new power supply, that as described elsewhere here as you are looking at it from that output side, 24V are the two on the left and 5V are the two on the right. It also verified for me that the NOYITO was marked correctly, with the two positive outputs being on the far left and right of the four, and the two negative outputs being the two in the middle. I can also add to the verification that for my Cinema 600 for the smaller 5V wires, white was GND, black was VDD and red was SBY, and I twisted the VDD and SBY together onto the +5V output of the new power supply. Now, yes, the NOYITO is about the same width, but shorter in length than the ETOP, and the metal heat sink grates, which are bigger and placed differently on the circuit board, don't seem to easily allow you to use one of the existing mounting holes in the soundbar backplate. I see here that some people have drilled new holes in the backplate to mount. I did not find that convenient for my 600, so I just have my replacement power supply sitting unmounted in there. The heat sinks do lay against the inside of the casing, but so far, the area has only felt tepidly warm to me. If that turns out to be an issue down the road, I would have to go back in there and figure out how and where to drill a new mounting hole or holes and get it to slide in and fit in there mounted to the backplate given that the size and orientation of the heat sinks make that harder to do. So, thanks again to Sixer and everyone here. This fix worked for my Cinema 600 soundbar. If Klipsch is smart and monitoring this, I want them to know that their reputation for quality has taken a hit with me. Being 3 years out, I did not choose to call them. But, it would have gone a long way with me if I had seen on their website a troubleshooting description of all of this, an acknowledgement of the customer experiences with these ETOP power supplies, and the offer of an inexpensive replacement that would include detailed and easy-to-follow instructions for doing so. In my book, that would have really set them apart in my eyes and gone a long way to enhance their reputation with me and win me over as a loyal long-term customer.

Hello I have a Klipsch 600 cinema soundbar. The first one had the no power issue. Klipsch replaced it and in less than a year the new 600 soundbar does a loud popping sound and then sound is reduced so you can not hear it anymore. Factory reset will fix it for about 5 minutes and it does the same thing again. Contacted Klipsch and they said it is too far out of warranty to replace it. They did send a 30% coupon for a full priced item but with the average life span of a year I do not think I want to purchase another Klipsch soundbar. My question is does anybody done or have a repair for this? Is it a supply power issue on the 24 volt side? Thanks

I had the same issue with my cinema 600 soundbar. The c05 and c06 caps were shot. I replaced them with these from Amazon and it's working fine now https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072SS83BF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Evidently they had been going bad for a while because the external speakers are working much better too. I joined so that I could thank those that came up with this fix. Sure beats buying a new system.

I have not had any issues with my Connect App but I don't use it very often. The equalizer function is pretty basic: it allows you to raise or lower levels in three ranges (lower, mid, & trebil). When I had my Cinema 600 I found the effectiveness of the equalizer to be disappointing. It's better on the Cinema 800 but not great. Since the equalization is done in the soundbar, the results depend pretty much on the soundbar.

The Cinema Series soundbars are being replaced with a new series. That's why you can find some great "deals". There are lots of posts about the Cinema 400 and the Cinema 600 soundbars, not all good I'm afraid. You may want to review the Klipsch support articles for the Cinema Series soundbars. If your Cinema 400 was just purchased, perhaps you can return it?

If I would had read all the above I would not have purchased my Cinema 400 this morning. I got a good deal on it and pulled the trigger. I have the sound bar hooked up through hdmi and have not had an issue yet. Been running it for the last 8 hrs. Sound is good. I regret not going for the cinema 600 or higher. The cinema 400 is not compatible with the connect app which has a equalizer to tweak your sound and I did not know that until after I setup my cinema 400.

@SeanFK @MikeW123 @sheemer See this Klipsch support article: Cinema 600 - Connecting to Klipsch Connect App

Have the same issue, Cinema 600 Soundbar gave up the ghost just as described by HollyB. Hoping HollyB and/or 001 can provide the link to the parts HollyB references in the above post "I followed the link and I have purchased the exact same power supply 24 volts 4 amps 5 volts 1 amp". Appears to be two parts that I need to order and install to rectify this issue. Love this system and it sounds fantastic when it works, I just hope to have the same success as HollyB. The link and exact items I need to purchase, pics (I can't see HollyB's pics), and any additionally tips would be greatly appreciated

Hello everyone! Following on from my 1st post back in 3/10/2022, I've since fixed a few Cinema 600 power supply boards for other owners. They all had the same failure with capacitors C05 and C06. I replaced them with 220uF 16V part from NCC (Nippon Chemi-Con) KZE series. This is not a common size part. You may use 220uF 25V instead but it'll be a tight fit. As some others have noted here, the +5V and ground cable colors seem to deviate from set to set. For those having problem with their power units from Amazon, do trace the respective cables back to the amplifier board (left most connector) and wire them accordingly. I've attached a photo here for reference. STB need not be connected, it's only needed with the original power board. You can safely insulate it with electrical tape and tuck it away.

I just found this thread because my Cinema 600 died one month short of 3 years. I have to give props to Klipsch in my case because they sent me a Cinema 800 for replacement free of charge and told me they don’t want the 600 back and I can do with it as I see fit. So…. I plan to attempt the repair on this thread and use in another room. Thanks for all the info here and I will follow up after the new power supply comes.

Hello @R1c0, @itsmeray, @CH315, @Dlayhue01 I just came across this thread otherwise I would have replied sooner. I use the Surround 3's with my soundbars. First, I had a BAR 48 so I know all about those issues. I too was given a Cinema 600 as a warranty replacement so I know all about the Cinema 600 issues too. My Cinema 600 died completely after a couple of months. I had just updated the firmware to the latest version a few days before Klipsch pulled that update. While Klipsch is pretty good about providing warranty replacements, if you are within the warranty period, the Cinema 600 doesn't really qualify as a replacement for the BAR 48. The BAR has more features than does the Cinema 600 and, while a warranty replacement doesn't have to be the same model, it does have to have compatible or better features than the model it is replacing. Both the BAR series and the Cinema series soundbars have major reliability issues, especially the BAR 48 and the Cinema 600. The most recently manufactured Cinema 600's are labeled Rev 3. 😞 When I pointed out to Klipsch that the BAR 48 specs had features not present in the Cinema 600, they replaced my dead Cinema 600 with a Cinema 800 that had just been released. Through all of this, my Surround 3's never gave me any problems. Here are some suggestions how to troubleshoot Surround 3 pairing issues. Move the Surround 3's close to the soundbar, say 3 to 5 feet, just in case there are any signal strength or interference issues. Move any bluetooth or Wi-Fi devices that could cause interference away from your soundbar. Make sure the switch on the back of the Surround 3's are set correctly: One should be in the "L" position; the other in the "R" position. If only one of the Surround 3 speakers is paired, try reversing the switches on the back so that left becomes right and right becomes left and try to pair them again. If the same physical speaker again pairs successfully, that would suggest the other speaker has an issue. If however the other speaker pairs successfully it would suggest that the soundbar is only able to pair to a specific channel (either the left or the right) and the failure to pairing is due to an issue with the soundbar. If you haven't done so already, I suggest you read these Cinema 600 articles.

purchased Cinema 600 with sub system (manufacturer refurbished) surround 3 speakers (manufacturer refurbished) and a dongle directly from Klipsch (brand new) all purchased separately

They sound awesome but can't wait that long and I'm sure they'll be full MSRP for a while. I got the Cinema 600 for 40% off MSRP.