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Found 8 results

  1. This is a vintage cabinet for a Klipsch Rebel corner subwoofer. I purchased it with the intent to rebuild it, but lost time and momentum. To be functional it will need a 15" driver as well as an amp to drive it (I have a new plate amp that I'd be willing to add for $75). Pick up in the northern Virginia/DC area.
  2. Hello all, I have a pair of Tangent 400s and was thinking of turning them into Heresy IIs. I have large speakers in my main system and would like to set these up in a small bedroom so need a smaller speaker. Has anyone done this? It seems all the speaker/crossover parts are identical, so it's just a matter of a new cabinet. Thoughts on these options in order of effort? 1) Find someone who wants more bass out of the H2s that is willing to swap cabinets 2) Cut the Tangent cabinet down & install a new bottom & risers 3) Build a set using a Crites motorboard ($80/pr + shipping) + new birch ply. (Sell / donate Tangent cabs) The Tangents look just like these: cheers, Dan
  3. I'm new here (obviously--as evidenced by the profile, left of this post... ) I'm in no hurry, but am in the market for some heritage Klipsch to improve my current system. As I read about the different designs--voodoo mystery is keeping me awake at night: 1. Why does a Cornwall, with a 15" driver, extend down to 38 Hz; but, an RF5, with 8" drivers, extends down to 34 Hz? This makes no sense to my small brain. 2. The 15" driver moves more air than two 8" drivers--and I speculate this translates to a difference in the quality of sound produced; but, what is this difference? If I had unlimited funds, I would buy everything and keep what I like. Alas, this is not me. Would anyone care to comment?
  4. I have decided to embark on a Heresy Restoration/Rebuild project, estimated cost to be ~$1500 I found a pair of Heresy I cabinets on e-bay, the condition and the finish looks good. Crites has all the needed drivers and X-Overs, along with the risers. I used Crites for my Forte II (1989) modifications (X-over and tweeter diaphragms) and was very pleased with the results. Is there anything else to consider? Do I need to seal the cabinet seams?
  5. Hi, I just aquired a really nice pair of old Klipsch speakers in huge cabinets for my band room. They look like they were used in an auditorium or something. They work great. Can anybody help me find out more about them like age, purpose, value, rarity, collectability ? Pics attached. Thanks.
  6. Greetings from the lowlands of Arkansas - home of tall grasses, heavy soils and indestructible bugs! I have a pair of Heresy (raw birch) and a pair of KG-1 (oak oil) speakers. The cabinets need a little attention. The birch plywood seems a little dry to the touch, and the oak veneer has several small scratches and and a couple of crayon markings. First, I plan to clean all the cabinets with a water moistened cotton towel. After sufficient drying, I plan to apply a thin coat of boiled linseed oil and turpentine (mixed 50-50) to the Heresys, rub in, buff. For the KG-1s, I plan to clean them again with turpentine, then after drying, thoroughly rub in the BLO/Turps blend, let it dry, and buff. Does this sound reasonable? Please let me know if there is a better solution. I want to retain the "natural" feel and look, so I will not be applying a varnish or lacquer finish. Many thanks for your input. Best wishes. -UC
  7. Hi guys: There's a story here to be told, bear with me. These Cornwall cabinets were built from MDF plywood, a very durable and tough plywood with an outer coating that takes paint well or is ideal for veneers. In this case, I had utilized these cabinets for some time as experimental "Corn-Fortes", using the K33 woofer and the Forte High and midrange horns. All wood was properly, personally CNC'd by me, and I did the construction as well. They are solid and ready to go, built exactly the same as stock Cornwalls dimensionally, with the same "shelf" inside and the dual ports. In the meantime, I had also cut myself a pair of VERTICAL Cornwall motorboards, and drilled the backsides to accept the stock Cornwall components. I had hoped to convert the cabinets back to a vertical format setup, but given I sold my Cornwalls some time back, and dismissed the Corn-Forte experiment, these parts are sitting around collecting dust. THIS IS STRICTLY A DIY proposal - but if you have ever wanted Cornwall cabinets, NEW, and verticals, this may be for you. You would be required to: 1) Remove the existing motorboards and install the vertical motorboards. The originals are well glued and sealed, so this is not for the faint of heart. 2) One cabinet does NOT have a terminal cup; I never got around to cutting a hole for it. Easy job with a jigsaw. Terminal cups available at Parts Express. 3) One rear panel has countersunk mount holes; the other does not. Sloppy on my part, but NOT a functional or visual distraction. Before I even price these things (and I want them outta here - I'd HATE to toss them in the trash), I need to know if there's any interest. Caveats: 4) I am near Dallas Texas, would PREFER local transaction but NOT mandatory 5) You want them shipped, they will be expensive to ship - but I WILL do it if it's necessary. 6) You buy them, you destroy them, it's your nickel. If you are not skilled at woodworking or don't know how to effectively do the swap, it's your issue. Just trying to protect myself. 7) I do NOT want to sell the vertical fronts separately; I figured that would be the first question. If I do, I'll let you know. Otherwise please respect that this is a package deal. Anyone up for DIY? Thanks.
  8. Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Klipsch Sub 12 Subwoofer (at least I think; it looks exactly like this: http://www.klipsch.com/sub-12-subwoofer/details). I'm looking to install a custom TV wall cabinet set up for my home theater. Ideally, I would place my subwoofer inside a cabinet with a mesh door; however, mine is a down-firing subwoofer. Does anyone know if I can still put my subwoofer inside and get good bass quality? Because it's down firing, do I have to have an opening at the bottom of my sub so that the bass will come through? Thanks!
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