Endo

Congratulations on the new purchase! Very nice setup. Beautiful. My day just got better.

[deleted] I type too slow.

One of several sources I have, is a laptop connected to an integrated amp. The laptop supports outputs of USB, analog (3.5mm) and HDMI. I tried them all. It took me a while to discover the benefits of using the HDMI. I got an HDMI "audio extractor" from monoprice and the results, for me, were immediately apparent (~$40; pulls HDMI digital from the laptop and delivers analog through RCA). At this point, I cannot imagine using anything but the HDMI. I realize a system of parts is just that--and your results may vary. Others on this forum have used the same extractor with success. My understanding (limited, I'm sure) is that HDMI and USB are different animals--designed to meet different requirements; and, are by no means interchangeable when it comes to carrying audio signals.

Those cabinets are gorgeous. I'm not in the market, but best wishes with sale. Very nice.

^ USNRET, Thanks for the invite. Sounds like a great time. I'm in a circumstance where any destination over 300 miles may as well be in the other hemisphere. However, would very much like to make it. I think the words "... by their fruits" speaks pretty damn well of those bearing PWK's legacy.

^ USNRET, thank you. They are certainly curious little posts. They look so deliberate. And then there are the four, surrounding holes, and the raised fins (to isolate the lines?)... ?... These little terminal assemblies have a lot going on. Its nice to know you can take these speakers apart and put them back together again. So much stuff is made anymore that has to be discarded when it fails because you can't take it apart and fix it.

Newbie question, --this is going to be obvious to a lot of people, but I have never come across anything that explains it. What are the curious little threaded posts that sit just above the terminal screw heads on a v.1 Heritage Klipsch? Obviously, anything connected to these taps into the signal--but what is the intended purpose? Seems like whatever it is, later banana-style terminals must have made it unnecessary--(?).

I wonder what other tell-tale signs might speak to their being originals, or not? IF they are originals--the thought that PWK may have been walking through the factory as those were being assembled is pretty cool--I'd take that over a "better" condition knock-off any day. But, that's just me. To say I'm eccentric is probably an understatement. I've never seen the inside of Heresy's before. Those strips of wood that frame the rear opening--does anyone know, is that typical? My CW's don't have anything like that. (I realize now, that I want those empty carcasses to be originals--I'm rooting for it; but, they may not be!)

I am curious about this. Does the motor board, pictured below, have the "check outs"?... Just curious. This one looks like a similar vintage, with the velcro dots, pneumatic hole pattern and rear mounted horns...

Who's Rodney?...

^^ Thank you, Tigerman and novisnick! I appreciate the responses and helpful info.

Question for the TT experts out there... Is it OK to use my stereo cartridge/stylus to play mono LP's from the 1950s? Can I hurt anything doing this? or do I need two different setups, one for stereo and one for mono? Any advice would be appreciated.

^ Would love to see pictures! Please keep us posted. Are you working from existing drawings?

Don't know what part of the country you're in, but CL in Boulder, CO has some CF3 v1: https://boulder.craigslist.org/ele/6184360578.html And also a pair of CF2 v?, in "Denver": https://denver.craigslist.org/ele/6207003723.html ! EDIT: Ok. so I went back and actually read the ad. This is just too funny: " The Epic series was Klipsch's one-and-only audiophile speaker series" -- WTF? -- (I'm laughing now, so I guess I have to "like" my own post.) Where is the tar and feathers? Does someone know where the tar and feathers are kept?

Russian baltic birch is good stuff. Available in various grades--its widely used throughout North America for better quality cabinets and casework; especially in drawer boxes where there is zero tolerance for voids. Russian BB is a creature unto itself. I have never seen a void in sheets that were spec'd void-free. For structural integrity, a careful shopper might find a "close" equivalent--but for what it claims to be... I've never seen better, at any price. (To re-iterate previous posts: "multi-ply" and "super-ply" products may look like BB; be cautious). I do not doubt that K.A. was experiencing quality control issues with their custom material from a North American supplier--but for anyone looking to invest the very considerable time and effort required for a quality speaker build--I would not skimp on the sheet material; and certainly would include Russian Baltic Birch among the better materials available. In addition to the common 5x5' sheets, in 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, and 18mm;--I have also seen it as thick as 24mm (~1 inch) thick and as large as 4x8'. ^ A cabinet grade plywood could be a substitute; but it is not a replacement, and it will not perform like BB. "Multi-ply" and "SuperPly" are tradenames for products similar to BB, and would be an improvement over a standard, mixed-fir, cabinet-grade ply. If you've got a particular species, or grain pattern in mind--you might try to find a supplier to special order one of the available 'multi-ply' products that is already faced with the veneer. Otherwise, a BB build that you face with veneer yourself would allow you to hand-select the veneer; and might yield best possible results. This could be a source of satisfaction, you would enjoy for the life of the speaker. [As an aside: remember that different materials will likely mean different methods of joinery; miters, 'lock joints', glues and mechanical fasteners are all optimized for specific materials and may not "play well with others" (eg. stapling plywood may work, where the identical joint in MDF fails. So, if you follow plans that spec both materials and fasteners, changing materials could also mean changing fasteners/joints)] I thought others reading this thread might be interested in the Dope excerpt, below. MDF is not mentioned, by name, but the principles discussed are as true today as they were then. Screws holding in edge grain, "high-density", breaking strength, stiffness... these all apply to MDF; in some ways even more so.