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Bi-wire speaker cables?


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What are it's purposes?

I have RF-7's that I believe are b-wireable? I would have to take off the jumpers, no?

How do you hook to the amp or reciever?

Please advise

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There has been a lot of discussion on the forum about bi-wiring. Some think it makes a difference, others don't. Most of my tech friends don't think it is worth the extra wiring. To bi-wire, remove the jumpers and run a seperate speaker wire (cable) to the HFE and another to the LFE on the 7's. Both wires will be placed on the same post on the amplifier or receiver. Try it and see if you notice any difference.

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Sounds like it's bi wire only one way, then? If so, how do you put two banana plugs on one terminal (the amp side)?

Twist the two + together and the two - minus together at the amp and connect to the + and - of the banana plug. That's why most people question the procedure. Not really separate cables.

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" Sounds like it's bi wire only one way, then? If so, how do you put two banana plugs on one terminal (the amp side)?"

I know of one maker of amps that explains how to do this.

Assume your speakers are normally 8 ohms, and are bi-wire capable with a HF and LF section.....and you have a tube amp with 16/8/4 ohm taps.

senerio A - your speakers sound too bright. You would leave the LF section on the 8 ohm tap of your amp. Move the HF section to the 4 ohm taps. This will cut the HF section by -3db.

senerio b - your speakers sound too boomy. You would leave the HF
section on the 8 ohm tap of your amp. Move the LF section to the 4 ohm
taps. This will cut the LF section by -3db.

senerio c - your speakers need more bass. You would leave the HF
section on the 8 ohm tap of your amp. Move the LF section to the 16 ohm
taps. This will boost the LF section by +3db.

senerio d - your speakers need more highs. You would leave the LF
section on the 8 ohm tap of your amp. Move the HF section to the 16 ohm
taps. This will boost the HF section by +3db.

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You could also run a conductor to each terminal @ the speaker and to different channels on the amplifier. So the tweeter would be powered by one channel and the woofers by another. This is bi-amping. Like others have said- who knows if it really makes a difference.

Mine are bi-wired with #12 conductors, technically increasing the conductor size. Of course we all know the larger the conductor, the less the resistance, but at this low of a power condition it really doesn't make a difference.

The only reason I bi-wired was because I got the wire for free and had enough to do it that way.

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You could also run a conductor to each terminal @ the speaker and to different channels on the amplifier. So the tweeter would be powered by one channel and the woofers by another. This is bi-amping. Like others have said- who knows if it really makes a difference.

Mine are bi-wired with #12 conductors, technically increasing the conductor size. Of course we all know the larger the conductor, the less the resistance, but at this low of a power condition it really doesn't make a difference.

this statement should be made into a "Sticky."

me personally, skip the bi-wire and buy a bigger speaker cable, saves the trouble of running to cables. not saying bigger speaker cables makes a difference, just suggesting it for simplicity.

if you are going to bi-amp, buy a serperate amp, don't bi-amp with a AVR. it's not going to work all that well, you won't be very happy. i am an Emotiva fan boy, so if you are dead set on bi-AMPING then buy one of their amps.

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most other forums have "stickys." those are perment treads that stay at the top of each catagory. each sticky has the basic information that everyone asks, so you don't have to repeat yourself a thousand times. in a nut shell i was giving you a commplement for a short lucid statement that someone should read if they are new to bi-amping.

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You could also run a conductor to each terminal @ the speaker and to different channels on the amplifier. So the tweeter would be powered by one channel and the woofers by another. This is bi-amping.


That's bi-amping, all right, but not a good way to do it. It's sometimes called "fool's bi-amping", since it uses the existing crossover and is not much different from bi-wiring. If the tweeter was actually getting a full-range signal from one channel, it wouldn't last very long. Among other things, the crossover keeps the bass frequencies from reaching the tweeters, since they would destroy it. Speakers that come with dual inputs are for bi-wiring, mostly because it's trendy and an added sales feature.

True bi-amping uses separate amps for bass and treble, along with either special passive crossovers or active electronic crossovers. It does give better sound, if you don't mind the extra complication and expense.
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