Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 39 In the case of these CW's, I used contact cement because it will absolutely bind to the formica layer (and to the bare wood where the formica was removed....) I use just less than about 1/4 cup of glue for each top panel and a little more than 1/3 cup for the side panels. This allows sufficient glue to penetrate the paper back, and still provide the correct thickness to adhere to the glue layer on the cabinet panels. Contact cement (and the Heatlock type) requires a layer be applied to the veneer and to the substrate (as in the cabinet...). Biggest error folks make is they do not use enough glue; or they do not allow it to "set-up" properly before applying the veneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 40 Here's the tools required..... I use Weldwood contact cement (the red kind). It smells like an airplane glue factory, but when I use it, the shop is well ventilated, etc. A paint roller to spread it. You can buy "specialty" glue applicators/ rollers, but it's not necessary. You need to make sure the roller is a "cloth". You cannot use foam or a cheap synthetic; the glue will "melt it"..... The "J" roller is used to roll the veneer out after applying the veneer to the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 41 Before you apply the glue..... make sure that your veneer panels are layed out on the cabinets and will fit correctly. Attention to detail.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 42 Top panels installed. Rough trimmed and ready for sanding and blending, etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 43 Side panels and edgebanding installed so you can see the match. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 43a Before installing the edgebanding you want to lay out your strips and "pin them" with an iron in the center. The edgebanding glue is heat activated, but you need to position the banding before attempting to iron the whole strip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 43b Edgebanding installed and trimmed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 43c Time for final sanding. Random orbital sander; initial 220 grit (very lightly), followed by #400 and then with #600. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 43d Other side. Further motor board and rear panel painting is the last part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 43e Looking nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 44 Next is the cabinet rear and motorboard priming and getting ready for the main black lacquer. First we "tape up" and shoot the rear area with black lacquer. I use a finishing gun (DeVilbiss HVLP) and OPEX/Valspar #40 sheen, lacquer primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 45 Now the other one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 46 Same with the motorboards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 46a I have a new helper in the Laboratory.... Igor.... (pronounced Eye-gor; Ee-gor was his father...). Igor is dilligently applying the tape to mask off paneling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 46b Igor is happy with his new job..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 47 Before staining, you want let the new veneer (and glue) set and cure for at least 3-4 days. Then before staining, wipe the new veneer down with mineral spirits. You will remove any sanding dust, and be able to inspect the veneer for any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 48 You can see the grain better and get a better idea as to how you want to apply stain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 49 Another view of the "wiped" panels. Does not look spectacular.... yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 50 Initial stain is a single coat and wipe off with Minwax "Gunstock" which gets the basic hue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Groomlakearea51 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Share Posted March 17, 2009 51 Second stain wipe is a 70/30 mix of Minwax "Gunstock" and Minwax "Special Walnut". This combination, when oiled, gives that reddish hue that the older Heritage walnut veneer looks like after 30 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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