gartenman Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Thanks dtel!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 If there is an easier way to match the color or grain, someone please let us know, I could use an easier way ! There is no easy way. I've used an artists brush and painted the color and grain into the filler. But the best way is to use a filler, then very carefully patch in small pieces of veneer to match what's there. I just sanded down my cherry Cornwalls, and I had to repair a few chips in the veneer. The bottoms of the risers had chips of veneer missing, so I took the risers off and cut about 1/2" off the bottoms with a table saw. That solved those chip problems! I used the veneer on the cutoff pieces for my patching of the other missing chips and it worked great. The worst one was a piece missing off the top back corner that was about 3/4" long and 1/2" wide. I actually had to put two pieces of veneer in to fix this one, and it came out great. Really hard to see that there was even a repair done. Bunged corners are time consuming because sometimes you have to repair all three sides. BTW, I used Titebond II and an iron to make the repairs. Really cool because you can repair and sand within minutes. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gartenman Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Thanks Greg. I don't know if my skills are that advanced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Thanks Greg. I don't know if my skills are that advanced. Lol, it's more about good eyesight! You have to use a sharp knife and get very close to see what you're cutting. I cut out a little more than the chip of veneer and then used the knife to shave the area down a bit. Then little by little I shaped the new piece of veneer to fit into my cutout area. Once it feels like it sits in place fairly well, and the joints between existing and new veneer is tight, you just glue it up and iron it on. Oh, ironing on will only work if you're already sanding down the speakers. Doing this repair to a chip in the veneer without sanding down and refinishing would be more difficult. Still not impossible though. The veneer of the new chip sticks out by and then you cut it or sand the excess off flush. I wonder if Marshall has any of this in one of his pictorials? Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gartenman Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olorin Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Last one this may sound stupid but which side of the terminals should be black and red? If you knock the dust off the top of the terminal block, one side should have a red plastic top and the other a black. It can be really hard to see if the lighting is poor or you're looking from a bad angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EM3 Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 Thanks for all the info and tips. Right now I need to pick up some stainable filler from Minwax. I think I will try that since I have small areas. The cats are loving my procrastination. They are using them as perches well except for the one cat who keeps sticking her paw in the horn. Soon to be dead kitty if she doesn't quit. I may try to sand them this weekend. It is supposed to be pretty so I can work on the deck maybe. I am quickly losing my nerve in regards to this job since I have never done anything like this. I guess I need some filler and tack cloth and sanding pads for the random orbital sander. No idea what else. How do you detach the old grill cloth from the frame? What type of flat black paint should be used or does it matter? Eventually I want to get a stereo receiver but I have no idea what to get without breaking the bank. I have seen some cool ones from the 70's like Sansui and Kenwood that have the needles and everything or should I go more modern since it will be used with a laptop and IPod? I have no idea where to even shop for this stuff. Too many questions sorry about that. I like to have a plan of action. It's late I'm tired and rambling now. I was thinking about a walnut stain and I cant decide between a satin finish or gloss finish on the outside. I may need a support group for this! I'll keep you all updated on my adventure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedball Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Satin all the way...[] Also I've found it difficult to find a putty that will accept a stain color that will match the wood. Seems like the putty never comes out the same shade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EM3 Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share Posted May 3, 2009 Project was delayed a little because of mothers illness but she is fine know. Ok I almost have everything for the project except grill cloth and emblems and glue. Grill cloth is becoming a problem since my first option fell through. I have my dad searching his storage shed for 180 grit 5 inch 5 hole sandpaper for him random orbital sander. I may have to hand sand that one and use the sander on the 120 and 220. There was no dust on the iside when I open 1 speaker up. Good sign I guess. Anyway I have a question or 12 so here goes. I know I need to remove the speakers guts, woofer, midrange, tweeter etc. Should I disconnect the wires that go to each cpeaker or should I leave those attached and just disconnect them from the crossover? I'm calling the block in the speaker where everything is connected the crossover (no idea if that is right). Also, I am assuming that the crossover should be removed as well. It appears that there are 2 screws that hold it to the cabinet. If I remore those 2 screws will that block come right out? I wrote down how all the wires are connected to that block. I know that sounds stupid but this is my first time doing this. Is there anything else I should know or do before proceeding? On the woofer it says 22K, midrange K52H and tweeter K77M. You know you can tell when a company takes pride in what they do. Any tips will be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 There should be a Red dot on the TOP of the positive terminal block, usually the one on the right as viewed from the rear of the speakers. X is the year, all the other digits comprise the 'serial number' of the speaker. Welcome to the Madness! Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesV Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 Should I disconnect the wires that go to each cpeaker or should I leave those attached and just disconnect them from the crossover? You should just disconnect the speakers from the x-over. I'm calling the block in the speaker where everything is connected the crossover (no idea if that is right). Yes, you are correct.. I am assuming that the crossover should be removed as well. Yes.. If I remore those 2 screws will that block come right out? Yes... Are you going to re-work the x-overs? This would be the best time to do so. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EM3 Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 Thanks jamesV Are you going to re-work the x-overs? This would be the best time to do so. I have no idea how to do that or what that would entail or cost. Your ahead of me now. Care to elighten me or point me toward a post so I can read about it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesV Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 I have no idea how to do that or what that would entail or cost. Your ahead of me now. Care to elighten me or point me toward a post so I can read about it? Here you go, one post talking about it and the man himself Mr. Crites with how to get a hold of him. I would say send him an email and see what he has to say about it. I sent mine into him and he reworked them and sent them back, they will be good for another 20 years, or so... James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EM3 Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 For anyone that has wondered about Bob C. He responded to my email in less than 12 hours and is very informative. He offered to sell me what I needed to do the job myself or told me how much they would charge to do it and included shipping. I am still thinking about his offer only because I have spent almost all of my minute budget. I underestimated the cost. If I could solder worth a lick I would get the parts and do it myself. Anyway I just wanted to say that Bob is really nice and fast with his response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesV Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 You can always just hook everything back up and enjoy the speakers. If you think you are missing something down the line you can do the mod. I currently have a pair of Cornwalls I that have the original x-overs in them and they sound fine. They might be off a little but they sound good to me. Good luck and do post pictures when everything is up and running. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EM3 Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 I am going to leave them as they are (the X-overs). I will post some pics when I get started on them. I have a sample coming of the grill cloth I want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EM3 Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 Well I finally got all the sandpaper and decided on the Watco stain in Dark Walnut. Now all I need is the grill cloth and I did receive a sample from my first choice and it looks great not to mention logos from Klipsch. I did FINALLY get to disassemble them and now they are ready for sanding. Man are there a lot of screws in these things. I promise pics will come soon.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psioga1jxg Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 "Would you use a stipper to get the finish off or just sand it off?" If you can afford a stripper to get the finish off, it sure beats sanding it yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EM3 Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 If I stain the backs how do I protect the inspection stickers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 If I stain the backs how do I protect the inspection stickers? What I've done is to cut out a piece of paper just 3/16" smaller both ways than the sticker, and use blue tape (less sticky) to attach the paper to the sticker, very carefully lining up the blue tape with the outer edge of the sticker. The blue tape is just barely catching the edge of the sticker all the way around. Sometimes the sticker is brittle and will come apart when taking the blue tape off. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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