rogerwilco82 Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Hi Robi! how are you changing the crossover of your cornscala? You have to go a few dB down on your tweeter and your squaker afaik. The problem is that especially the midrange is very efficient and the woofer of the Cornwall III is the critical part. By damping the inside of the woofer you're loosing more dB from the woofer...so the original Cornscala crossover will cause you under represented lows... Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robi Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 Hi Robert, I'm in trouble with this issue.... ;-) This is the situation: 1)Bob Crites don't use damping material inside (as he said to me by mail) 2)Another guy that realized splitted Cornsacalas (and write on this forum, where published a pdf about their project, now I don't remeber the nickname) tried damping material and was happy. 3)The crossover from Crites uses autotrasformer and I could lower the level of the mid and high sections (even using a db meter). I thought to damping only the walls of the cabinet (NOT fullfill the cabinet) but I can stop now with the damping material. I'm not sure: what I've to do????? Experts help me, please!!!!!!!! :-( Roby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hklinker Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 Hi Robert, I'm in trouble with this issue.... ;-) This is the situation: 1)Bob Crites don't use damping material inside (as he said to me by mail) 2)Another guy that realized splitted Cornsacalas (and write on this forum, where published a pdf about their project, now I don't remeber the nickname) tried damping material and was happy. 3)The crossover from Crites uses autotrasformer and I could lower the level of the mid and high sections (even using a db meter). I thought to damping only the walls of the cabinet (NOT fullfill the cabinet) but I can stop now with the damping material. I'm not sure: what I've to do????? Experts help me, please!!!!!!!! :-( Roby. Robi-Non preoccuparsi, troppo damping è non problema! I don't remember what drivers you are using, but I think you said you are going with the Crites tweeters and crossovers. I have the CW 1.5 and it still has the paper damping material inside. The area below the port shelf is not damped. My crossover uses a 1.3 mH solid core inductor and is crossed at 600 Hz. and I get plenty of output from the woofers. Are you using Crites woofers? Once you get the drivers in and the box sealed you can judge for yourself. You can always change the taps on the autoformer for the squawker and tweeter to reduce their output. I would try that before removing the damping material. They look bello! Ciao, Herb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 just talked to Bob about this issue he said use the damping only where it was oringally in the cabinate if U want I can do a photo before i rip mine out as need to remove it soo I can caulk the seams & i'm going with the WalMart fiber fill that Cigarbum used & only where the paper was at ...... as my puppy got inside one of the cab's & ripped parts of the paper out or i'd put the paper back in here's a link to my build http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/129786.aspx will be posting pix later today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robi Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 Thanks guis for your help!!! I'm using all stuff from Bob (with cast frame woofers). @fastslappy: I'm waiting for pix. Sorry but I'cant well understand that you wrote. You remove the damping or not? Seems that you substitute the original damping with the WalMart fiber (positioned in the same position of the original damping). Is it correct??? Roby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Yes that's correct ! & I am using the same Bob Crites parts as you are Thanks guis for your help!!! I'm using all stuff from Bob (with cast frame woofers). @fastslappy: I'm waiting for pix. Sorry but I'cant well understand that you wrote. You remove the damping or not? Seems that you substitute the original damping with the WalMart fiber (positioned in the same position of the original damping). Is it correct??? Roby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Yes that's correct ! & I am using the same Bob Crites parts as you are Thanks guis for your help!!! I'm using all stuff from Bob (with cast frame woofers). @fastslappy: I'm waiting for pix. Roby. here's the pix of the stock padding of a Cornwall 1977 vintage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robi Posted February 14, 2010 Author Share Posted February 14, 2010 @Herb: il tuo italiano è ottimo: complimenti!!!!! @Fastslap: Thanks for pics!!! I don't have to put dampening material in the front panel and I can put it in the back panel, but not at the base of this panel, where is the reflex duct: it's correct? Roby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 @Herb: il tuo italiano è ottimo: complimenti!!!!! @Fastslap: Thanks for pics!!! I don't have to put dampening material in the front panel and I can put it in the back panel, but not at the base of this panel, where is the reflex duct: it's correct? Roby. padding on sides / top / on top of the port / back wall NO padding in the port area Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hklinker Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Robi- You are correct. Fastslappy's pictures are the same as my 84 Cornwalls, no damping on the motorboard or under the port shelf. Almost finished. Enjoy! Herb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Robi are u flush mounting the tweet horns & squaker horns ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robi Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Thanks again!!!! @Fastslappy. I'll listen with grilles on. So I'm building grilles and cabinet to have a sort of flush mounting for mid and tweeter with grilles on. The spacers that I've build are in this direction. I didn't machined the motorboard to don't have stifness reduction. Roby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 a long piece of angle steel will stiffen the motorboard & Not add to the cab inside volume place between woof & mid horn horizonal and NOT have the ends touch the sides of cabinet bolt on well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robi Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 I'm slowly going on the project. I finished the light internal damping... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robi Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 In the last week my integrated amplifier returned from Aurion Audio. Aurion Audio is an italian hi-end company that produces amplifiers and make famous modifications (often on cd-players). See their web-site: http://www.aurionaudio.it/ They modified my old Musical Fidelity A1 (solid state, pure class A, 20WrmsX2): I love it!!!! In the future may be I'll use a custom Aurion Audio 6 channel amplifier to multi amp my beasts!!!! Sorry for the bad shots :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robi Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robi Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 After a braistorming with Aurion Audio Engineers (Alberto Maltese and Alberto Ingoglia) I decided to follow their advice on cables. I do not use shielded cables, but simples copper/silver and teflon cables. I'm going to try to isolate this from vibrations as the best I can. Now I'm reinforcing the PH 800 Horns. The big surfaces have low thickness, so I'm using fiberglass to have better stiffness. In the shot you can see the first layer of fiberglass. I care about the work is exactly the same between the 2 channels. (I cutted the fiberglass BEFORE mix the resins.... ;-) . My father ROCCO helped me: he's the best!!!!!!! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 Robi the damping is needed in the woofer area Also ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robi Posted March 15, 2010 Author Share Posted March 15, 2010 Even in the woofer area there is the damping. The color is different and in the shot you can't see it. ;-) I used 3 differents types of damping material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted March 15, 2010 Share Posted March 15, 2010 Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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