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Cornscala III from Italy & Oppo BD 83 SE Modifications


robi

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Roby,

Sometimes, I forget that American and Italian idioms are very different. They often do not make sense when translated into each others' language.

I agree with you that we audiophiles tend to obsess over many things that Mr. Klipsch would have found to be "bullshit". An example: I am trying to decide whether I should put the original Klipch emblems (brass plates) that were on these cabinets (circa 1980) or get the new (retro looking) pie shaped emblems that Klipsch now puts on the Cornwall III's. My wife says the new ones look more "vintage" but the purest in me wants to restore them to their original look, even if it means they look out of the disco age. So guess what, I'm going to get both!

Silly, yes but it this is the grease the moves these forums along, almost in perpetual motion.

I am enjoying your posts very much, keep them coming!

Herb

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The other cabinet.

A detail of the mid support/cabinet reinforcement. To have all the ways very near, we've machined it to screw the rear nuts.

The design of the motorboard is similar to Cornwall III (the woofer is higher). For these reason (and because the ph800 was the third mid horn adviced by bob crites after klipsh and pyle...) I named Cornscala III my speakers.

I hope you like it!!!

Now I've to spray the dampening coat in the inner of the other cabinet

Roby.

post-39064-13819511606228_thumb.jpg

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Good evening!

I'm thinking what I've to do about cables.

1)I'll use the same cables to connect ampli to speakers and for internal cables.

2)All the connections will be soldered (from the drivers/woofers to ampli) to lower contact resistances.

3)All the connections will be shielded (from the drivers/woofers to ampli) to lower electromagnetic interferencies.

4)All the connections will be dampened (from the drivers/woofers to ampli) and the crossovers will be external to lower vibrations effect.

I could use (for all cables) a AWG 10 (5,27 mmq) silvered oxigen free copper with teflon insulator. (One for positive and one for negative).

I've some questions for experts:

1)The AWG caliber is OK?

2)I've to twist the negative and positive conductors? If yes, I've to do this for all the ways???

3)I've to use different AWG for woofer and mid/high?

4)Do you suggest other solutions to cabling my speakers?

Thanks in advance for your answers!!!!

Roby.

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Guest David H

Robi, AWG 10 is overkill, AWG 14 will do nicely, for the short runs. I like to use wire that is easily identifyable such as black/red to reduce the chance of getting something out of phase.

Project is coming along nicely.

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Robi-

I agree with GotHover. I bought some red/black wire from Bob Crites that he sold me for $.45 per foot or roughly 1 Euro per metre. You need no more than 4 metri per speaker, so it is quite economical!

Your attention to detail is exceptional, keep up the good work.

Herb

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Good morning GotHover,

do you think the AWG 10 isn't good??? Could you explain me the effects on the sond?

The identification of phase isn't a problem (the same cable is available in different colors).

Thank you!!|| [:D]

What about others questions?

Roby.

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Robi-

I agree with GotHover. I bought some red/black wire from Bob Crites that he sold me for $.45 per foot or roughly 1 Euro per metre. You need no more than 4 metri per speaker, so it is quite economical!

Your attention to detail is exceptional, keep up the good work.

Herb

Good mornig Herb,

The cable AWG 10 that I could use is very cheap (a friend could sell me that).

Do you have did any tests??? Solid core, silver, copper, twist or not , ecc????

Thank you for your comment. I'm building very slow and I can make attention to the detail.

I hope do not do something wrong!!! For these reason I'm asking to more experienced people.

Thanks for yours answers!!!!

[Y]

Roby

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Guest David H

Good morning GotHover,

do you think the AWG 10 isn't good??? Could you explain me the effects on the sond?

The identification of phase isn't a problem (the same cable is available in different colors).

Thank you!!|| Big Smile

What about others questions?

Roby.

There is nothing wrong with AWG 10, it is just not necessary, the additional size will not effect the sound unless you are making long runs with it.

Sheilding is unnecessary for this application. It is however a good idea to route the wires so they do not interfere, or cause rattles.

Soldering is fine, however unless you are using silver solder you will not signifigantly improve the electrical connection over a good quality connector, and even then will have little to no effect on sound.

Dave Harris

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Robi-

I agree with GotHover. I bought some red/black wire from Bob Crites that he sold me for $.45 per foot or roughly 1 Euro per metre. You need no more than 4 metri per speaker, so it is quite economical!

Your attention to detail is exceptional, keep up the good work.

Herb

Good mornig Herb,

The cable AWG 10 that I could use is very cheap (a friend could sell me that).

Do you have did any tests??? Solid core, silver, copper, twist or not , ecc????

Thank you for your comment. I'm building very slow and I can make attention to the detail.

I hope do not do something wrong!!! For these reason I'm asking to more experienced people.

Thanks for yours answers!!!!

Yes

Roby

Roby-

With such short wire lengths the AWG is not a critical factor. But you should consider the issue of connectors with such a large AWG. When you are using such a large wire you will have to design all your crossover and speaker connections to accomodate the larger wire. If you are buying your X-overs already built I will tell you that the binding terminal strip will not take a very big spade so you will have to modify the cable to connect it. Using a silver coated wire or a better quality 14-16 AWG copper wire with good solder will yield excellent results without having to redesign your connectors.

Herb

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Hi Roby

Where in Italy do you live? I use to live in Vicenza Italy for 3 years. That is where I bought my first set of Cornwalls in the PX. I had to order them in. I loved it over there. I worked in a TV station as a engineer over there. That was between 83 and 86 I would love to go back and visit or live, great country.

Bob

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Hi guys!!! Thanks for your informations!!!!!

I'm thinking what I've to do...thank you again!!!!

I'll drive the Cornscala III with a Musical Fidelity A1 (I've got it in 1998...is 20 watt solid state class A). Do you think Is enough for those 15" beasts????

Do you suggest anything else?????

@MoparBob: Now I live in the south of Italy (where the weather is very good!!!!!). I know a little Vicenza because I lived in Verona (another nice city near Vicenza) for a year.

Very nice places for holiday!!!!!! I hope in the future to go in the USA ...

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Very nice places for holiday!!!!!! I hope in the future to go in the USA ...

My wife and daughter are planning a trip to your country in the spring. It's a college graduation present for her. I may pick your brain a little, in the future, if you don't mind.

Carl

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OK!!!!! [Y]

Very nice places for holiday!!!!!! I hope in the future to go in the USA ...

My wife and daughter are planning a trip to your country in the spring. It's a college graduation present for her. I may pick your brain a little, in the future, if you don't mind.

Carl

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  • 4 weeks later...

Good evening!!!!

I'm going to update you about my project!!!

Now I'm working on the decoupling spacers and on the grilles.

Let's see some shots of the grilles: those will be aligned with the horns and the edges of the cabinets and will covered with pressed wool (less diffractions).

Note that I've have to refine it!!!!

Roby. ;-)

post-39064-13819513234178_thumb.jpg

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