mbajner Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 I have a set from ’78 with the non-slanted risers From I remember, that is all they offered Looking for dimension and angle of the riser Also, I have a table saw so how would one cut the slantedboard? Explanation and pics would be helpful Currently just place a small block of wood under the frontriser Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank1938 Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 For best results, make a tapering jig or buy one of these. http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=2076 Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 These are handy for mounting the risers http://www.stanleyhardware.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=HDW+HD+CORNER+BRACE&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=302650&SDesc=2%26quot%3B+Zinc+Plated(2C)+Heavy+Duty+Corner+Brace Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 Do you know about the masking tape trick, to glue beveled pieces of wood together? Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody_Mack Posted June 18, 2010 Share Posted June 18, 2010 Put them on stands, straigt up vertical, tweeters about ear level. Heck, you're probably using a sub with them anyway, so don't worry about a little loss of 60Hz bass. Lovin' mine on 23" stands! Pretty sweet with the 2A3 amp [8] Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbajner Posted June 21, 2010 Author Share Posted June 21, 2010 thanks everyone for the response. the slant jig looks interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fjd Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 I don't specifically know the measurements, but here is a link to another thread that discusses size/angles. http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/34761/305255.aspx#305255 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laager Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Don't know the measurements but at the end of the day I cheated. I took the slant base from one of my other HIIIs, handed it to a cabinet maker and said 'copy this'. He did. Perfectly, although with one minor modification from stock. Instead of veneered MDF, I had him make the base from solid hardwood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbajner Posted June 21, 2010 Author Share Posted June 21, 2010 i have some leftover Oak floor boards, that might work for these risers. that link with the size of the risers matches close to what I came up with. I just placed a small block of wood under the front of the existing riser. tried different thicknesses until i got the angle i wanted. I measuerd about 1" to 2.5" rise on the side, and 12.5" long. will try this out with the oak floor boards. might make jig out of plywood instead of buying one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olorin Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Do you know about the masking tape trick, to glue beveled pieces of wood together? Greg I'd like to know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Do you know about the masking tape trick, to glue beveled pieces of wood together? Greg I'd like to know. It's one of those things that's harder to explain that it is to just show a picture of, but I don't have a picture! The closest I have is the picture below which shows a 'box' that I made with this method. In the picture I'm just using it to hold up the horn. Imagine the four pieces of wood that would make up the riser laying flat on a table, with each end bevel cut to 45 degrees. You line up the long points of each of the pieces so they are touching one another and then use a good heavy masking tape to hold them in place. Then flip them over and apply glue to the bevel cuts and use the masking tape as hinges to fold the pieces together. The long points of the cuts will line up perfectly and the tape holds everything together for you to put brad nails in, or to clamp them until the glue sets. That was the short version. If it's not clear, let me know and I'll take another stab at it. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olorin Posted June 21, 2010 Share Posted June 21, 2010 Thanks Greg, that's a perfect explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybobg Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 I think this is what Greg is referring to: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Main/Public/Articles/Skill_Builder_Miter_Joints_5554.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 I think this is what Greg is referring to: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Main/Public/Articles/Skill_Builder_Miter_Joints_5554.aspx Yes, photos 7 + 8. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted June 22, 2010 Share Posted June 22, 2010 Those are great tips. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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