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Elemental design A5-350 owners need your input


robc1976

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I think it's a short in the sub. Maybe the way the subwoofer itself is wired. If the amp isn't designed to go to a certain impedance and the sub is wired incorrectly that could definitely cause the issue. Or possibly speaker wire is damaged. Can you access the wire?

Sorry, I missed this thread's continuance. Was watching "The Adjustment Bureau". Top Notch Flick!

Jason, I was suggesting a 60hz crossover because on most receivers; that is the lowest setting. (60hz and the sub takes over below that; set to small). As mentioned; many receivers do not allow "Large" with a sub; "Large" disables the sub pre out.

I have tried my Heresies both ways; but the sub and small setting/ 60hz Xover wins. (Getting the Heresy bass to stay in phase with the sub bass is difficult and seems to vary based on style of music. Better in my case to just let the sub do the work; and give the amp more headroom).

RF7s with music probably do not need a sub; but the original OP wants to get his sub working. (The immediate goal is just troubleshooting; to get it to work any way possible).

RF7s with HT probably do; and to each his own on the best way of integrating his/her sub into the system.

Steven M makes some good points. The best way to be sure what is better is to try both.

I am really glad I did.

Anyway; I hope now it makes why I recommended what I did.

After reading this thread; I agree with the above comment. Either the wiring or the driver itself may have a short.

I suggest contacting ED and telling them to send a COMPLETELY new unit that has been tested.

OP; Good Luck.

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I think it's a short in the sub. Maybe the way the subwoofer itself is wired. If the amp isn't designed to go to a certain impedance and the sub is wired incorrectly that could definitely cause the issue. Or possibly speaker wire is damaged. Can you access the wire?

Yeah I can acess it easily...they had me do a test to make sure it was not the woofer...they had me take a AA battery and touch the positive wire to the positive side on the batter and the ground to the ground and it made a maovement and he said that was a indication it was not the speaker.
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Let me get this straight.....u have rf82ii's right? 8 inch woofers right? And you set your speakers to "small"? Why?

That is what most do...why would you want your speakers wasting power on bass when you have a dedicated sub?

There are many reasons:

If you are running seperates; or a really big receiver (Denon makes a 150 WPC receiver).

Klipsch are efficient. Also, RF7s do 40hz and below.

For music; a sub probably is not needed. For HT; I have seen people do both; depends on many factors; including room size; type of speaker; amp/seperates vs receiver; source; the listeners type of music and even just because it sounds better........

The goal is the best sound; but my "best sound" may be different than yours......

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I think it's a short in the sub. Maybe the way the subwoofer itself is wired. If the amp isn't designed to go to a certain impedance and the sub is wired incorrectly that could definitely cause the issue. Or possibly speaker wire is damaged. Can you access the wire?

Sorry, I missed this thread's continuance. Was watching "The Adjustment Bureau". Top Notch Flick!

Jason, I was suggesting a 60hz crossover because on most receivers; that is the lowest setting. (60hz and the sub takes over below that; set to small). As mentioned; many receivers do not allow "Large" with a sub; "Large" disables the sub pre out.

I have tried my Heresies both ways; but the sub and small setting/ 60hz Xover wins. (Getting the Heresy bass to stay in phase with the sub bass is difficult and seems to vary based on style of music. Better in my case to just let the sub do the work; and give the amp more headroom).

RF7s with music probably do not need a sub; but the original OP wants to get his sub working. (The immediate goal is just troubleshooting; to get it to work any way possible).

RF7s with HT probably do; and to each his own on the best way of integrating his/her sub into the system.

Steven M makes some good points. The best way to be sure what is better is to try both.

I am really glad I did.

Anyway; I hope now it makes why I recommended what I did.

After reading this thread; I agree with the above comment. Either the wiring or the driver itself may have a short.

I suggest contacting ED and telling them to send a COMPLETELY new unit that has been tested.

OP; Good Luck.

I was going to watch that movie tonight LOL!! I have another Amp coming in in the morning...I tested the sub with the battery test like I stated above is that a good enough test or is there another test I can perform?? I may just ask for a new woofer to see if that cures the problem. I may take the woofer out tonight and look at ALL connections. I waited 8 weeks for this sub and really want it to work LOL!!
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I think it's a short in the sub. Maybe the way the subwoofer itself is wired. If the amp isn't designed to go to a certain impedance and the sub is wired incorrectly that could definitely cause the issue. Or possibly speaker wire is damaged. Can you access the wire?

Yeah I can acess it easily...they had me do a test to make sure it was not the woofer...they had me take a AA battery and touch the positive wire to the positive side on the batter and the ground to the ground and it made a maovement and he said that was a indication it was not the speaker.

The speaker test they had you try would be a correct way to test.

If it moved with the battery it is likely fine. (Can you push the woofer in and out gently?)

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Also Jason brings up a good question, has eD tested the old amp yet?

The first amp was alo doing some crazy things...when you turned the volume up the woofer would go out with the volume, when you turned it down it would go inward so you could basically make the woofer go in and out with the volume knob without a cabel hooked up. They tested that amp and they found a problem with the volume knob (Taciamoter "spelling"??) was bad in it and was not getting the correct contact. It was also out-putting current instead of drawing it I believe.
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I think it's a short in the sub. Maybe the way the subwoofer itself is wired. If the amp isn't designed to go to a certain impedance and the sub is wired incorrectly that could definitely cause the issue. Or possibly speaker wire is damaged. Can you access the wire?

Yeah I can acess it easily...they had me do a test to make sure it was not the woofer...they had me take a AA battery and touch the positive wire to the positive side on the batter and the ground to the ground and it made a maovement and he said that was a indication it was not the speaker.

The speaker test they had you try would be a correct way to test.

If it moved with the battery it is likely fine. (Can you push the woofer in and out gently?)

Yep....easily. When I touched the battery it moved. Is there a reason to take the speaker out and isperct all the connections on the speaker (hot lead, ground & ground loop)?
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I would say not woth it, unless your third amp does not work either.

I will say I am surprised.... ED is supposed to have good QC.

(If the 3rd amp does not work; you should be very insistant that they make this right.; and quickly).

Your other sub does still work when connected, correct?

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Let me get this straight.....u have rf82ii's right? 8 inch woofers right? And you set your speakers to "small"? Why?

That is what most do...why would you want your speakers wasting power on bass when you have a dedicated sub?

There are many reasons:

If you are running seperates; or a really big receiver (Denon makes a 150 WPC receiver).

Klipsch are efficient. Also, RF7s do 40hz and below.

For music; a sub probably is not needed. For HT; I have seen people do both; depends on many factors; including room size; type of speaker; amp/seperates vs receiver; source; the listeners type of music and even just because it sounds better........

The goal is the best sound; but my "best sound" may be different than yours......

That makes sense..so the AVR 5308. that u

is true...whats sounds great to me may sound terrible to others.

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I would say not woth it, unless your third amp does not work either.

I will say I am surprised.... ED is supposed to have good QC.

(If the 3rd amp does not work; you should be very insistant that they make this right.; and quickly).

Your other sub does still work when connected, correct?

He overnighted the 3rd amp and will give my money back at anytime. Yep, my other cheap sub works great! I would like to know who makes this amp? Also does it matter that the amps I am getting are 300 wattt RMS and it is supposed to have a 500 watt RMS? My dads A-300 works great LOL!!
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Let me get this straight.....u have rf82ii's right? 8 inch woofers right? And you set your speakers to "small"? Why?

That is what most do...why would you want your speakers wasting power on bass when you have a dedicated sub?

There are many reasons:

If you are running seperates; or a really big receiver (Denon makes a 150 WPC receiver).

Klipsch are efficient. Also, RF7s do 40hz and below.

For music; a sub probably is not needed. For HT; I have seen people do both; depends on many factors; including room size; type of speaker; amp/seperates vs receiver; source; the listeners type of music and even just because it sounds better........

The goal is the best sound; but my "best sound" may be different than yours......

I put my at 80Htz because that was what I was told to do by guys at audyssey, avs ect...they never gave me a reason why LOL!! when my sub is working do you still suggest 60Htz for the speakers?? and 80Htz for the sub. Why does everyone say 120Htz for sub/bass setting??
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I would say not woth it, unless your third amp does not work either.

I will say I am surprised.... ED is supposed to have good QC.

(If the 3rd amp does not work; you should be very insistant that they make this right.; and quickly).

Your other sub does still work when connected, correct?

They tested both the amps and they were said to of had voltage?
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Setting your sub at 120 hz will allow your sub to play all frequencies up to 120hz. Check the specs on your speakers. You would be safe to put your crossover setting on your avr to 10hz above the low spec on your speakers. For example if the speaker low spec is 30hz then set your avr to 40hz. By setting to 80hz your not allowing your speaker to reach it's full potential. Assuming you are sending your speakers enough power then they should reproduce those frequencies just fine and sound great. As for sub xover settings.... I set mine to 100hz. I have tried different setting between 80 and 120 but find my SUBs sound best to

Me when crossed over at 100hz. As a starting point you should check your sub specs and go from there.

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Setting your sub at 120 hz will allow your sub to play all frequencies up to 120hz. Check the specs on your speakers. You would be safe to put your crossover setting on your avr to 10hz above the low spec on your speakers. For example if the speaker low spec is 30hz then set your avr to 40hz. By setting to 80hz your not allowing your speaker to reach it's full potential. Assuming you are sending your speakers enough power then they should reproduce those frequencies just fine and sound great. As for sub xover settings.... I set mine to 100hz. I have tried different setting between 80 and 120 but find my SUBs sound best to Me when crossed over at 100hz. As a starting point you should check your sub specs and go from there.

So basically when everyone told me to set all to 80Htz that was just a average...well i want the full potential of my speakers....I will say that when I run audyssey it sets them at 40Htz. So when you are sayinf set to 40 htz I will get better sounds or more information...I am all ears LOL!! i have the same sub as you so I will try the 100htz. I will admit I did find it weird that no matter what speaker I had they said 80HTZ...guess that is a all around good frequency....I will check the stats.
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Setting your sub at 120 hz will allow your sub to play all frequencies up to 120hz. Check the specs on your speakers. You would be safe to put your crossover setting on your avr to 10hz above the low spec on your speakers. For example if the speaker low spec is 30hz then set your avr to 40hz. By setting to 80hz your not allowing your speaker to reach it's full potential.

If you set all speakers to 40Htz wont that only allow your speakers to play all frequencies up to 40 htz...I am a bit confused LOL!!
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