4, 6, 8 ohms?

[Deang]

I charge $175 a pair to do those. Cost includes parts, labor and return shipping. 

 

All of the parts are soldered to the back of the terminal cup. You might want to take a look at what you are getting into before you opt for a kit.

 

Dean

 

dgwescott@gmail.com

[Lord_Midsummer]

Good day all, I hate to necropost to such an old thread, but the topic seems apropos to my issue. I have a beautiful Pioneer SX-1050 that I just had restored, and I picked up a pair of very nice Klipsch Forte IIs for the receiver to run. However, when I played my favorite test track to see how the speakers would handle it, the receiver started cutting out. The track I use is Tchaikovsky's 1812 Overture as performed by the Chicago Symphony under Solti from 1987 on the Decca label. The recording has good clarity and good instrument separation, and in the 80s, the Chicago Symphony had an incredible brass section, plus this recording has particularly good cannons in the finale, so the track really exercises a speaker.

 

Anyway, I used that track to test the new Forte IIs, and when I get to the finale, with the volume turned up just enough to make the floor shake a bit, the amp protection circuit in the receiver cuts in, dropping the sound every time a cannon fires. I'm going to be talking to the restorer who did my receiver, but I'd like the community's advice as well.

 

I have run into the same complaint so many have before, that being that the Forte II reads 4ish Ohms across the terminals, although it's rated as an 8 Ohm (nominal) speaker. I know the whole point of Klipsch is efficiency, and the amp in my receiver is supposed to be able to handle 4 Ohm speakers anyway, per the labeling on the back (though supposedly, these old Pioneers "don't like" 4 Ohm speakers). I also know that since the multimeter is going to test using a DC current and the speakers use AC, reading across the terminals isn't going to give me anything like a complete picture of the actual impedance in the speaker system. However, that doesn't solve my problem.

 

So, what is the likely cause of the protection circuit tripping, and more importantly how can I mitigate this? I'd really rather not have to buy a separate amp just to drive these speakers, since the whole point of the SX-1050 is that massive internal amp (not to mention I'm a little short on shelf space for audio equipment right now).