picky Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Wellnow, THAT was scary: Let me start from the beginning.Two weeks ago, before Verna and I left on the road to Indianapolis for the 2012Klipsch Pilgrimage, I went downstairs to our HT and switched off the mainswitch to our power line conditioner. Everything in the theater that draws110-volt power, draws it from our Tripp Lite LCR2400 Line Conditioner. Or, so Ithought. So, we left town on our merry way, had a stellar time with all of ourKlipsch Forum friends and returned home to find that our house was still in onepiece, but there had been a brief power failure in the neighborhood while wewere gone, according to our next door neighbor. Everything seemed fine. One week later: I'd been very busy with school so I had not hadthe chance to use our theater since we got back, but since Thursday, June 21stwas our last day of class, I invited my lab partners over to the house for alunch BBQ and a theater demo. Therefore, the night before, I went downstairsand switched the system's power line condition back to "on". The next day, my lab partners, Verna, Ms. Rose and I all had agreat BBQ lunch and then it was time to demo the theater. My pals eagerly triedout the comfy theater seats and got ready for the exciting debut. Except.....notso much! Oh, the sound was incredible...to them...but I could tell somethingwas VERY wrong. There was NO SUB!!! My RSW-15's cone was not moving and therewas no indicator lamp lit on the front. Closer examination revealed that I did not have the sub's power cordplugged into the special protected power outlet, but instead, it was pluggedinto the un-protected, standard wall outlet next to it. This meant that whenthe power failure had occured that the sub was still energized, even though itwas set to "Auto On". RATS! Anyway, I ran the remainder of the demofor the guys and they all said it sounded great, but I knew it was nowhere nearas exciting as it normally is. The next day, last Friday, I started investigating what was wrong.I checked the power cord connections at both ends, the input cable, the switchpositions and finally the fuse. The RSW-15 uses a special, 6 Amp, Slow-Blowfuse that is available from Radio Shack (part # 270-1028). You get about 4 ofthem for less than $2 bucks. But when I checked the one I removed from the subwith my volt-ohm meter, it measured 0 ohms, which meant it should have 100%continuity. I put it back in and the sub was still dead. A bad fuse shouldtheoretically measure infinite resistance, or Infinity which means Nocontinuity. But, again, this one read 0 ohms (no resistance). So,now suspecting that the internal, BASH power amp was in jeopardy, I contactedKlipsch Customer Service via email. Since I purchased my sub in 2004, I alreadyknew it was past warranty. Sure enough, they got right back with me. It was myold buddy Steve Phillips. Steve suggested that, although it did not make anysense at all, to go ahead and buy some replacement fuses at Radio Shack andjust go ahead and try replacing the fuse just for grins. He said, who knows, itmight just work?? I must admit that I doubted it would do any good, but I trustSteve so I went ahead and tried it. Guess what? IT WORKED!!! The sub's indicator lamp lit up green andwe had a signal! WOO-HOO!!!! But the good fuse reads the same as the supposed"bad fuse": 0 Ohms??? I immediately threw the bad fuse away and now Ihave some spares. But, I also switched the power cord over to the protectedoutlet to avoid this scenario from happening again. I can't thank StevePhillips enough for his expertise and for getting back to me so quickly.Klipsch truly does have the best customer service department in the business.Steve said that he stopped trusting the ohmmeter reading on fuses a long timeago. LOL So, for those of you out there who suddenly encounter a dead subfor no apparent reason, just try changing the fuse even if you think the fuseis okay. It could save you time and it could save you some bucks in repaircosts. Mine blew because the fuse was protecting my sub's amplifier from harm.In other words, it did its job as designed Thanks Klipsch and thanks Steve Phillips! -Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Gotta love a happy ending. Be sure that your protected outlet that you now have your sub plugged into will handle the load. Most aren't, and the recomendation is to go straight to the wall with the sub cable like you previously had it. Edit: just looked it up. It will support a total of 20A or 2400w. You may want to total up everything you have plugged into it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted June 24, 2012 Moderators Share Posted June 24, 2012 Good news, If they liked the sound without the sub you did well, would have loved to see their faces with the sub helping. [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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