StLouisVegan Posted June 21, 2002 Share Posted June 21, 2002 I just got my new KLF-30's a couple of weeks ago and I was wondering what I should do about hook-ups. I was think of using a pair of Marantz ma6100 THX Ultra Certified mono-blocks for one speaker rated about 125 watts. Should I use one amp for the tweeters and the other amp for the woofers(bi-amping)....OR....should I bridge the amps together to get 360 watts and bi-wire to the speakers? I know in normal listen we don't usually listen to more than 40 to 50 watts, but doen't more power for KLF-30's make them sound better? ------------------ Michael Tangonan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted June 21, 2002 Share Posted June 21, 2002 I think you have a slight misconception of what bi-wiring is. Bi-wiring is when you connect a pair of leads (speaker cables)(+ & -) to a single channel pair of terminals on the amp (i.e.- the left channel) and run those to the lower pair of terminals on the speaker (i.e.- for the woofers). Then, from the same pair of terminals on the amp, run a second pair of leads (speaker cables) to the upper pair of terminals on the speaker (i.e.- midrange and tweeter. Be sure you remove the binding straps (those flat brass things that bridge the four posts on the speakers). Does it sound better? Mine definitely do. I'm using MIT Terminator 2 Bi-Wire cables from Audio Advisor (plug). They have a single pair of spade connectors at the amp and and go into a passive network box. Then they are split (and marked) into four leads for the four posts on the speakers. Bi-amping is a lot more complicated. If you intend on using the mono-blocks then you'll need four of them and an active crossover unit. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagnumMan Posted June 23, 2002 Share Posted June 23, 2002 tblasing-I have always had a different perception of bi-wiring also. I assumed that you needed a outboard xover. Which you refer to as bi-amping. I am still a little confused to how bi-wiring works? you mentioned the "MIT Terminator 2 Bi-Wire cables from Audio Advisor (plug)". How exactly do they work. What does the passive network box do? Currently I have 8 AWG speaker wire running from the amp to my KLF-30's. Can I run 2 strands of wire to each speaker or do I need the passive network box? It is something I will definitely try. Any little bit to get extra quality I will try. Thanks! ------------------ Jerry CP RULZ ------------ Mains: KLF 30 Rears: KG 5.5 Center: KLF-C7 Subs: (2) Antique wooden coffins with (3) 12" Advents in each Receiver: HK AVR-80 DD Processor: HK ADP-303 DTS Processor: Rotel RDA 985 AudioControl Phase Coupled Activator Series Three TV: Toshiba 42H81 42" Theaterwide DVD: Toshiba 4109X Laserdisc: Yamaha CDV-W901 5 CH Amp(for subs): Rotel RB-985 Single Cass Deck: HK TD-420 Dual Cass Deck: HK DC-520 This message has been edited by MagnumMan on 06-23-2002 at 12:24 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted June 23, 2002 Share Posted June 23, 2002 The passive networks aren't nessecessity for every bi-wiring rig (but it sure do work) and I'm not exactly sure what they do but here's a couple of links that may explain it. http://www.mitcables.com/pages/products/terminator_2000/page_NT2.html http://www.mitcables.com/pages/page03.html An outboard crossover is definitely needed when bi-amping otherwise you would be relying on the natual frequency rolloff of the drivers which may not sound the best. In bi-wiring you will still be using the internal crossover between the midrange and tweeter one the binding straps heve been removed from the speaker's posts. Maybe MIT's passive networks have a kind of a high-pass and low-pass filter to prevent too wide a frequency signal going to their repective driver(s). I say this because the four leads coming from teh passive networks are difinitely marked "High Output" and "Low Output" (meaning HF and LF). All the technical jargon is on their site in the white papers. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit This message has been edited by tblasing on 06-23-2002 at 10:24 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 23, 2002 Share Posted June 23, 2002 ...I was thinking of using a pair of Marantz ma6100 THX Ultra Certified mono-blocks for one speaker rated about 125 watts. Should I use one amp for the tweeters and the other amp for the woofers (bi-amping)....OR....should I bridge the amps together...f>s> Tom is right. To biamp with a monoblock you would need four of them -- one for each driver. In order to 'bridge' you have to have amps that are bridgeable. This term is applied to stereo amps that have a left and right channel, and a switch that combines them. You are talking about mono amps that only have one channel, so what is there to bridge? What you want to do is get two of these monoblocks, one for each channel -- and then birwire, which is simply running 2 additional speaker cables for each channel. Four cables come off the binding post of the amp for the left channel and go to the four binding posts on the back of the speaker (negative/tweeter, positve/tweeter, negative/woofer, positive/woofer). You repeat the same for the right channel. Also, like Tom said, you can buy four monoblocks and use one for each driver. However, you don't need an active crossover if you tie right into the back of speaker (because you will be using the crossover inside the speaker).f>s>I am still a little confused to how bi-wiring works? you mentioned the "MIT Terminator 2 Bi-Wire cables from Audio Advisor...How exactly do they work? What does the passive network box do?f>s> If you read the MIT white papers you will lose half of your chromosomes. What they do is deliver signal engergy as in-phase power.f>s> Currently I have 8 AWG speaker wire running from the amp to my KLF-30's. Can I run 2 strands of wire to each speaker or do I need the passive network box?f>s> The network box is something specific to MIT cables and has nothing to do with biwiring. Just my opinion, but you should be using at least 12 gauge zip cord for all your speaker connections. BTW, you will need (4) fours strands to each speaker!f>s> Tom saidf>s> An outboard crossover is definitely needed when bi-amping otherwise you would be relying on the natual frequency rolloff of the drivers which may not sound the best.f>s> I don't understand what you are saying here. If you have two amplifiers, you can biamp by simply designating a channel for each set of binding posts on a biwirable speaker, and use the crossover in the speaker.f>s> Maybe MIT's passive networks have a kind of a high-pass and low-pass filter to prevent too wide a frequency signal going to their repective driver(s). I say this because the four leads coming from the passive networks are definitely marked "High Output" and "Low Output" (meaning HF and LF).f>s> The parts inside the networks are basically inductors. They are tweaked for HF and LF respectively, but they don't really do anything as far as tailoring the actual frequencies. There is no filtering, because the inductors are in-line with the signal, and not in the signal path.f>s> ------------------ Deanf>s> AE-25 Super Amp DJH * S F Line 1 * S9000ES * HSU x-over * SVS CS+ * Klipsch RF7s f>s> Psalm 122:6f>c>s> This message has been edited by deang on 06-23-2002 at 10:05 PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbflash Posted June 24, 2002 Share Posted June 24, 2002 Check out www.davidmannaudio.com go to FAQ danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagnumMan Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 So,I can bi-wire without the passive network? Ok, here are my hookups: I have new banana plugs from KnuKonceptz that doesn't permit plugging another pair in. So,to hook up 2nd set,should I get spade connecters for it? If one set is hooked up via spades under the screw cap on binding post,and other set hooked in via banana plugs, does it make a difference which is going to Hi-Input & Low-Input on back of speaker. Thanks!! ------------------ Jerry CP RULZ ------------ Mains: KLF 30 Rears: KG 5.5 Center: KLF-C7 Subs: (2) Antique wooden coffins with (3) 12" Advents in each Receiver: HK AVR-80 DD Processor: HK ADP-303 DTS Processor: Rotel RDA 985 AudioControl Phase Coupled Activator Series Three TV: Toshiba 42H81 42" Theaterwide DVD: Toshiba 4109X Laserdisc: Yamaha CDV-W901 5 CH Amp(for subs): Rotel RB-985 Single Cass Deck: HK TD-420 Dual Cass Deck: HK DC-520 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted June 25, 2002 Share Posted June 25, 2002 Originally posted by MagnumMan: So,I can bi-wire without the passive network? Yes, you can. Ok, here are my hookups: I have new banana plugs from KnuKonceptz that doesn't permit plugging another pair in. So,to hook up 2nd set,should I get spade connecters for it? If one set is hooked up via spades under the screw cap on binding post,and other set hooked in via banana plugs, On the amp end, using the spades is a good idea. The only thing I can think of that might be a problem is being able to insert the banana clips in far enough in the hole when the spades are in place. Just a thought. does it make a difference which is going to Hi-Input & Low-Input on back of speaker. None. ------------------ Tom's Money Pit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagnumMan Posted June 26, 2002 Share Posted June 26, 2002 Thanks a lot! I will have my amp an get everything hooked up in the next couple of days and see how it sounds. ------------------ Jerry CP RULZ ------------ Mains: KLF 30 Rears: KG 5.5 Center: KLF-C7 Subs: (2) Antique wooden coffins with (3) 12" Advents in each Receiver: HK AVR-80 DD Processor: HK ADP-303 DTS Processor: Rotel RDA 985 AudioControl Phase Coupled Activator Series Three TV: Toshiba 42H81 42" Theaterwide DVD: Toshiba 4109X Laserdisc: Yamaha CDV-W901 5 CH Amp(for subs): Rotel RB-985 Single Cass Deck: HK TD-420 Dual Cass Deck: HK DC-520 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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