Deang Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 No real question(s) here, more of a FYI. From almost the beginning I've been soldering with 63/37 (eutectic) solder. I'm in remission from the throat cancer, so I'm really not all that interested in having fumes from lead based solder floating around me while I'm working. I spoke with Bob about it and told him I didn't want to use a fan because I don't want cool air blowing across my solder joints. He suggested a desktop hepa filter, which is a brilliant idea, and I'm looking for a decent one (open to suggestions here). I got to thinking about it and decided that maybe another layer of insurance might be good, and just move away from lead based solder all together. So, with this whirling around in my head off and on, Craig alerted me to a good deal on the new Hakko FX888D-23BY from B&D Enterprises. Since my Weller is pushing the 10 year mark, I figured now might be a good time to replace it, especially with me trying to crank things up again. Interestingly enough, the deal included a sample of "silver" lead free solder from Indium Corporation. I've been playing with this stuff and I really, really like it. The technical designation is "Lead Free Alloy SAC Alloy (SAC305)" The data sheet says it's 96.5% tin, 3% silver, and .05% copper. I've attached a data sheet. At 750 degrees, this stuff melts fast. It's wonderful. I can get in and get out faster than ever -- which means it's not like other silver based solders I've used before, where I always felt like the heat was on the leads or part way longer than I liked. I'm using the CW-807 http://www.indium.com/flux-and-epoxy/flux-cored-wire/#products If there is a downside that anyone knows about, I'd like to hear about it before I start buying it by the pound. lead-free-alloy.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 The last time I looked into the lead free solders, there were several negatives to consider. Most or all of these may have been addressed in current lead free solders. One that seems insurmountable is that for re-work, lead is considered to be a contaminant to the lead free joint and that may make the lead free joint unreliable. Seems if that is still true, using lead free for rework where solder with lead was used originally might be unwise. Other negatives were poor wettability requiring use of much more agressive flux. Life of soldering tips decreased to about 20 percent of the life of tips used in lead soldering. And then there is the subject of "tin whiskers". Bell labs found out 50 years ago that they could be prevented by always using some lead mixed with tin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 I can get in and get out faster than ever -- which means Story of my life... [:|]The good news is that YOU'RE BACK! I still have an unopened pound of Kester 2/62/36 that I got several years ago. Maybe I could sell it for a profit. I believe our military has a waiver on using lead in their solder so they don't have to worry about the whiskers. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I found a great write up by NASA, but I'm at work right now and can't upload it. There is a link, but if I copy and paste it into the address bar, it doesn't load. If you google, "drawbacks to using alloy solder", it's the 7th link down. It's in Word. Great stuff. At one point in the analysis they say: "In the more benign environments of consumer products, Sn/Ag/Cu eutectic has been shown to exceed the performance of eutectic Sn/Pb." Bob, for what we generally do, I think maybe only the rework issue is applicable. Sticking with the 63/37 in those cases is easier, unless you remove all of the old solder like I do - but all of the manufacturers of SAC305 claim, "...compatible with tin/lead, Pb-Free, and high lead-containing alloys." These all have a flux core, and what they sent me has excellent wettability. http://www.indium.com/flux-and-epoxy/flux-cored-wire/#products http://www.pemro.com/productDetails.cfm?ItemCode=IND-1020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 2, 2013 Author Share Posted March 2, 2013 It would take one hell of a tin whisker to cause a short in the kind of work I do. Yes, I'm back. But I wake up every morning and think, "but for how long?". You, more than most around here know what a demon this disease is. I've decided to just try and ignore my situation the best I can, I can't let the anxiety dictate or control my decisions or goals. Of course, I realize that sounds very funny since I am shopping for desktop hepa filters and lead free solder. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 No one gets out of here alive... [] Except for the hereafter part, of course. I'm with you, think about the same thing, "but for how long?" I want to be around here as long as I can for my wonderful wife, who is a little younger than me. Ten years ago, I wouldn't have given a lot of things like that a second thought. I eat better (as little HFCS as possible, no synthetic sugars subsitutes, organic is I can, etc.) than I ever have in the past and have never felt better. We do the best we can and can afford. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEC Posted March 2, 2013 Share Posted March 2, 2013 Not really related to the discussion, but here is a nice chunk of good old 63/37 solder. I have had this bar for so long I have forgotten where I got it. There is probably still about 5 pounds left. I use it occasionally to top off my solder pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeFord Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Fumes related to the flux might be much more of a health risk than lead in the solder. I don't think you need a "lot" of air flow for a reasonable amount of protection, just some that is constantly directing the fumes away from you. I think I might look at making something with a 120mm computer fan and a filter with a flex hose I could position near my work. 120mm run at half voltage still have good flow, but are almost silent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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