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Update an AK2 Crossover?


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You have a split crossover. There are two halves. One half, the part for the bass or low pass, is located on the inside of the door going into the bass bin. The other half, or high pass, sits in the top hat -- this is why there are long jumpers leading from binding posts on the door to the network section you can actually see. To use other crossovers, the components in the bass bin either need to be removed or disconnected. Complicating things further is that all of the wiring is soldered to the crossover, which makes trying new crossovers even more difficult.

Maybe for now you could just stay with the AK-2. Why not just replace the capacitors in the high pass section and see if you like what you hear. The AK-2 attenuates the squawker down a bit more compared to the others, and a lot of people prefer that anyways. You need two 13uF (you can use 12uF), and six 2uF capacitors to get it done. I don't recommend cheaping out since the crossover sits between the gear and the drivers. So, you kind of have to decide how important the end result is to you and what you are willing to spend before you start. I prefer film and tin foil capacitors whenever possible, and especially in tweeter sections. They are expensive, but a worthwhile investment.

If you really want to try different crossovers, then you have some work to do before you can try them.

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The AK-2 can be easily upgraded to an AK-3 by switching to the T5A autoformer and changing the caps in the woofer door from it's current 70uf (35uf X 2) to 100uf (50uf X 2) and changing the coil to a 5mh I think but it has been awhile. The AK-2 was not that great sounding, so I modified it to be an AK-3 which is a bit better. I did this on my '88 Klipschorn's. This is probably the cheapest approach other than getting some of DeanG's or ALK Engineering networks that can easily best the AK-3 at a price. Kimber's, Solen's or Dayton's are decent caps. Auricap Theta's are really good but pricey.

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