loudandclear Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 hello everyone I'm new to this post. just wanted to know what the general concensus was on the most desireable year for the klipschorn if there is one. also was wondering if anyone can tell me if i can use linseed oil on my walnut oiled speakers after applying rejuvenating oil for many years. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daddy Dee Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 loudandclear welcome to the forum! note sure if there is a consensus on the best year for Klipschorns. They are all pretty amazing. There are some crossovers i hear some folks don't care for as much as others. not sure what years those were. it's an issue easily dealt with for those who are concerned. it's just a personal preference, but i wouldn't want linseed oil on my oiled walnut khorns. I have a linseed oil finish on a pair of Heresy. it's ok, but prefer the old oiled walnut finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tromprof Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 It took many years for me to score a pair of K-horns (1976 models). I would say the best year for K-horns is the year yours are made in when you finally get a pair. [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudandclear Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 okay thanks do you oil yours at all to keep them from drying out and to look nice? i currently have two pair of walnut oil 1980 k-horns with crites tweeters and crossovers (bought tmem 20 years apart and only 40 serial numbers apart! pretty ironic) also have 77wo heresy and 85 oo heresy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudandclear Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 lol i agree but it seems some like the pre 1985 models Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 welcome to the forum my first choice in k-horns is to have them built with the pie slice logo up to 1975 B style only AA networks 2nd choice is the 76-77-78's with the laser logo. again B style only i use BLO on all my oiled veneer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudandclear Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 okay thanks russ. can i apply BLO over the rejuvenating oil finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 okay thanks russ. can i apply BLO over the rejuvenating oil finish? what brand did you use as a rejuvenation oil ? & why change now ? I use Howard feed-n-wax wood presererver feeds , waxes & oils all in one beeswax & Orange oil , smells nice as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudandclear Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 watco- thougt maybe BLO would be better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 watco thougt maybe boo would be better if the Watco is working fine why change ? I use what I use as all these products put off volatile substances in the the home's atmosphere & I myself really would rather be wanting to breathe one's that are non toxic . but that's just me . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 linseed oil , you have to be care how you handle the rags that you apply that stuff when you are done as the rags can catch fire all by themselves , spontaneous combustion it's called Many people have burned down their house by being careless with the left over rags any left over rags must be placed in a metal container dosed in water away from a structures . just dosing in water in not enough as when the water dries they still can catch fire from the oil . I say all this outta safety for everyone who reads this . I myself have had these rags catch fire on me , I was lucky that I caught the fire just as it was starting to burn the side of my house as I had placed the rags in a plastic pail next to the garage , I feel i was dbb lucky as it was a weekend & I did my wiping early in the day And I was still puttering around the work area when I turn a corner with flames licking up my outside wall Had I been doing the oiling in the evening it would have been a personal disaster . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudandclear Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 just to touch on this a bit more i am ok with the watch rejuvenating oil but i noticed the 77 heresys i have has a smoother finish to the touch and i found out the previous owner used either BLO or tung oil but my speakers seem to have a less than that same smoothness feel. they look great just feel different if that makes sense. that is why i was considering switching to either BLO or tung oil. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 tung oil & steel wool is one of the 1st things I do as the tung oil fills the voids in the grain & that's where you get the smooth feel , mine are Oak veneer & Oak has huge grain voids I use either REAL tung oil or teak oil either one with OOOO steel wool will fill all voids it's a P I A as it takes awhile but only needs it once . most Tung oil products sold is not pure tung oil so read the labels Woodcraft sells real tung oil & only buy what you need as If not stored right the un-used Tung oil goes bad thru oxidation (it has to be bottled in air tight container with no air in the conatiner as well IE; no bubble in the top of the bottle ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 the steel wool is important as it cuts & fills the hardening tung/teak oil as you go I tung oil then let it sit till is starts to get sticky & the use a OOOO stell wool dipped in thinner that I run with the grain the wool cuts the surface hardened tung & then that stiffers oil slides into the viods repeat till smooth & each time it takes less tung oil till the last few times it's just a damp wool with thinner the secrect is do this all at once as if the tung oil over hardens if left to cure Tung oil will also give the grain a look of depth when it's then waxed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudandclear Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 thanks. so can i use steel wool with rejuve oil or switch to tung or teak oil? again i like the look of the rejuvenating oil just want that "like there's no chemicals on them feel" if that makes sense. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudandclear Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 thanks mke. how frequent do you do this process? i am currently doing this twice annually. i apply with a cheese cloth let stand for approx 3 min and wipe with the grain with a cotton towel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudandclear Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 perhaps all i need to do is steel wool them! as you were saying they kinda feel like the oil is "built up" on them, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 tung oil only once ! from there I use the wax & feed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loudandclear Posted September 14, 2013 Author Share Posted September 14, 2013 so maybe I'm doing this process too often? the directions on the can say "apply as needed" figured they dry out over time thats why i re-apply. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZombieWoof Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 perhaps all i need to do is steel wool them! as you were saying they kinda feel like the oil is "built up" on them, Yaeh , but you risk pulling it all off if You use any thinner , try the teac oil put on thin let dry till sticky then steel wool NO thinner alotta restore's do a stripping effect OR use what restore you have been using but let set on there for a time to soften the build up & then steel wool with damp with restore If you do this DO NOT use paint thinner as you willl be stripping & you don't want that after that use a that wax & feed or walnut oil , lemon oil to keep the wood from drying out tung oil , teac oils work like a shellac and are a sealer , steel wool fills the voids with partly solidified shellac danish oil work like that sorta as well but at a smaller degree of a filling of voids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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