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I have probably asked this question a dozen times, I just don't remember what I read.  But what do you guys think about swapping out the EV Dh1a's on my EV HP9040's with my Fatial PRO HF200's.  I mean it would only take some time to do so, maybe one Sunday afternoon with nothing going on.  Wonder what I have to gain.

Edited by duder1982
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OK, I just stumbled upon one of my own threads

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/142442-faital-pro-hf200-vs-bc-de85tn-on-eliptrac-400/

 

Which sparked an intrest in something,

 

What if I removed the 1.4" to 2" adapter and found a horn I could use as a tweeter and take my system to a three way.

 

Or sell either the Faital or EV's (which ever sounds best) to purchase a decent 1" driver and a pair of those QSC tweeters.  Huh Huh, what do you guys think?  Anyways just bored and sparking up confersation.  Where is Claude, he's usually all over this kind of stuff.

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you have an EV driver that has been used time and time again in successful two ways from 500Hz up so why do you want to build a three way? That seems like a step backwards. For home levels you could cross the DH1A even lower since it is unlikely you will require its full output to listen in the near field. I run a simple paper double cutaway Karlson K-Tube on my DH1A that have the extender cups removed so they are 1.4" at the exit. I am crossing higher than I wold like as I am using factory networks from another system but the results are very good never the less with a set of Klipsch CF3 networks. Both the drivers that you have are much better than good so if you hear something it is likely an EQ issue or perhaps it is simply that you like the sound quality of one diaphragm more than the other. Horns that suit a driver are hard to find. Maybe building your own is the way to go because you already have world class drivers to work with.

Edited by moray james
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Every time I setup a 2-way system I ended up going back to 3-way.

 

I think it's overrated to eliminate a crossover point and a horn and driver optimized to deliver more focused highs.............and that it will be "better".

 

I always found the highs did not have the focus and emphasis on 2-way that 3-way has.  3-way also sounds "bigger" and more separated.......which is something I personally like.

 

Not everyone prefers it, but just some thoughts.

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Personal preference will always be the final decision maker I understand that. I always kind of figure that a good two way has an edge as far as the network business goes and if you have the drivers (which Duder definitely does)it works out like a very wide band driver with a woofer helper and if you want/need a touch more top end then you can always slip in a simple six db/octave good super tweeter with just a single cap at a nice high crossover point (around 10 - 12KHz)keeping all the xover business well away from the compression driver. So then it becomes a wide band compression driver with horn(on in my case a Karlson K-Tube) with a helper woofer and a helper tweeter. After so many decades of trying to better a quality pro two way I can't think of anything that I really prefer to listen to overall and I know that other systems can do some aspects of the sound but the two way seems to get more correct and less wrong for me. JBL still has the two way fifteen inch with compression driven horn based system as their reference monitor "M2" top of the reference monitor line up. I kind of think that says a lot about it. Then we have theages old love affair with the Altec 604 coax based monitors (which ruled the studios of the world for over thirty years) and the Altec 19 still a big favorite also. At the Klipsch end of the pool I like the CF3/4 series of three driver two way loudspeakers.

Duder: sticking some 25 - 30 PPI open cell foam into the throat (all the way up to the diffraction point of your 9040 horns will help clean them up easy and very inexpensive to do and cheaper than a new horn) give it a try.

Edited by moray james
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sticking some 25 - 30 PPI open cell foam into the throat (all the way up to the diffraction point of your 9040 horns will help clean them up easy and very inexpensive to do and cheaper than a new horn) give it a try.

 

Do you by chance have an image better explaining this? I am trying to understand what you mean, also would have a particular product you speak of when talking about open cell foam?

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25 - 30 PPI (stands for pores per inch) is simply open cell foam you can probably buy at any serious foam shop it is the same type of foam used in water wheel drum type humidifiers,. You cut plugs to fit into the throat and the section up to and including the diffraction point of the horn. Does that help? You only want to fill the space you don't want the foam compressed so you trim the foam plugs to fit with just enough friction to wedge them comfortably in place inside the horn. This is not hard or complicated and it will only takes a few minutes to do. There ya go. This will reduce distortion.

look at this patent if you still are not sure.

http://www.google.com/patents/US7708112

Edited by moray james
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25 - 30 PPI (stands for pores per inch) is simply open cell foam you can probably buy at any serious foam shop it is the same type of foam used in water wheel drum type humidifiers,. You cut plugs to fit into the throat and the section up to and including the diffraction point of the horn. Does that help? You only want to fill the space you don't want the foam compressed so you trim the foam plugs to fit with just enough friction to wedge them comfortably in place inside the horn. This is not hard or complicated and it will only takes a few minutes to do. There ya go. This will reduce distortion.

look at this patent if you still are not sure.

http://www.google.com/patents/US7708112

Yes this gives a good idea, now to locate some foam.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

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25 - 30 PPI (stands for pores per inch) is simply open cell foam you can probably buy at any serious foam shop it is the same type of foam used in water wheel drum type humidifiers,. You cut plugs to fit into the throat and the section up to and including the diffraction point of the horn. Does that help? You only want to fill the space you don't want the foam compressed so you trim the foam plugs to fit with just enough friction to wedge them comfortably in place inside the horn. This is not hard or complicated and it will only takes a few minutes to do. There ya go. This will reduce distortion.

look at this patent if you still are not sure.

http://www.google.com/patents/US7708112

Yes this gives a good idea, now to locate some foam.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Good glad to hear that helped you. You have a very nice set of horns designed for the driver that you have by one of the best companies out there with possibly the finest design team there has been. Not many horns that will equal what you have and very few will better them. At home levels the issues your horns have at PA levels should not be a problem at all, they can spit and sound like frying bacon at top output levels as in over 120 db but since you won't be going there at home no worries. Good luck and please keep us posted. If you want to try something else and I think I have suggested this save a lot of money and time and experiment with some simple paper Karlson K-Tubes remove your DH1A extender cups and use them as a 1.4" exit drivers rather than the nominal 2" exit, this way you will pick up some useful top end extension that way. The cost to you is an afternoon of your time to listen and to experiment.Best regards Moray James.

Edited by moray james
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