Moderators dtel Posted April 4, 2016 Moderators Share Posted April 4, 2016 (edited) f you don't know, with ethanol in gas, water gets drawn out of the air and contaminates your gas tanks and carbs with water, rust and sludge. i don't doubt it, my old truck is jacked up right now with the gas tank out and the fuel pump removed. The fuel pump just stopped so I took the tank out, removed the whole pump housing out and inside it's covered in rust including the metal tubes going down to the pump. Now I need to order the whole thing not just the pump, the tank looks OK. It's an old truck, 89 Chevy 3/4 ton, it only has 43K miles and only get's used just to pull a trailer or go to the hardware store. You can buy replacement tanks pretty cheap ~$130 at LMC truck. You might need a sending unit too. Those range in price, but max about $200. Be sure to change the fuel filter if there was rust in the system. It comes with a new filter, pump sending unit, everything that's shot on mine. $130 fro Rock Auto, they had the cheapest price by almost $40. It looks like the tank is fine, not perfect but it looks like everything was attracted to the part in this pic for some reason, maby a different metal ? Edited April 4, 2016 by dtel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 f you don't know, with ethanol in gas, water gets drawn out of the air and contaminates your gas tanks and carbs with water, rust and sludge. i don't doubt it, my old truck is jacked up right now with the gas tank out and the fuel pump removed. The fuel pump just stopped so I took the tank out, removed the whole pump housing out and inside it's covered in rust including the metal tubes going down to the pump. Now I need to order the whole thing not just the pump, the tank looks OK. It's an old truck, 89 Chevy 3/4 ton, it only has 43K miles and only get's used just to pull a trailer or go to the hardware store. You can buy replacement tanks pretty cheap ~$130 at LMC truck. You might need a sending unit too. Those range in price, but max about $200. Be sure to change the fuel filter if there was rust in the system. It comes with a new filter, pump sending unit, everything that's shot on mine. $130 fro Rock Auto, they had the cheapest price by almost $40. It looks like the tank is fine, not perfect but it looks like everything was attracted to the part in this pic for some reason, maby a different metal ? That is probably just the tank filter (sock) that is included and not the actual fuel filter itself. Not 100 % sure but i have never seen a fuel filter included in a tank assembly so just be sure its included if not pick one up. If you provide a link to exactly what you are purchasing i can have a look if you like. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted April 4, 2016 Moderators Share Posted April 4, 2016 OK sorry your right, i was thinking of the sock, YES the fuel filter is about 3' away inside the frame along where the fuel lines run, and it will need to be changed out also. I thought it would be best when removing the fuel filter to undo the line from the carb and blow it out, probably trash in it also, wouldn't hurt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 Your truck unless modified will have throttle body fuel injection and is very reliable for the most part. You could unhook the fuel line from the throttle body unit and blow it out but i would not worry about it too much myself, the filter will take care of anything that could cause harm really. When you unhook the harness check for bad connections, clean and repair as needed so you don't have to worry about going back under there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted April 4, 2016 Moderators Share Posted April 4, 2016 It is a throttle body and your right I have never had a problem with it. Good idea i never thought about it the filter should have caught any trash going through the line. I hate doing this kind of stuff but i am cheap and if I can do it i will. The truck just sits most of the time so i usually just start it up and let it run or drive it around the yard. Last time I couldn't hear the fuel pump running before i cranked it and there was no fuel pressure at the engine so I checked the electrical before pulling the tank. After removing the tank and pump i tried to hotwire the pump with 12v and it's dead which was not a surprise considering how it looked. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted April 4, 2016 Share Posted April 4, 2016 My advice for a longer lasting new pump is to keep your fuel tank no lower than 1/3 on your gauge, this keeps at least part of your fuel pump submerged in fuel witch keeps it running cooler and in turn will last longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted April 4, 2016 Moderators Share Posted April 4, 2016 (edited) Your the second person to tell me that, My brother in law said the same thing, what he said was without much gas in it the tank could also sweat more on the inside. I do remember a boat I had that had an aluminium center console in it with a built in 32 gallon tank and I had problems with water to the point of installing a water separator mounted on the transom. It had a bowl you could drain the water out of. I started filling up the tank after fishing so it was full between trips.and that greatly reduced the water buildup. I usually kept very little gas in it because it sits most of the time and I would want to run it mostly out before it got old, I may have to keep more gas in it and probably fuel stabilizer to make it last longer. You two could be onto something, Thanks Edited April 4, 2016 by dtel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaSHO Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 Spent some time tuning a customer car on E85 his weekend. This is a car I tuned NA on E85 a couple years ago, which has a rebuilt engine with 12.5:1 compression. We made 300whp NA, 400whp with a 100-shot, and now have added a Borg Warner EFR 8374 turbo. Everyone kept telling us that we shouldn't boost on that compression, but this is why I love ethanol. Hell, we've even disconnected the knock sensor as the archaic tuning software we have to use won't let me adjust the knock sensor to ignore normal noises with the current setup. Ran into a good bit of problems with the car on the dyno and had to take time to fix. We also couldn't hold boost after peaking and ran out of time to figure out his new stand alone boost controller (but he's figured it out now and testing). At 20 PSI tapering to 13 at redline, it made 520whp/557wtq and because of the massive boost taper, it made 520whp from like 4,500 RPM to 8,000 RPM. Once the owner adjusts the wastegate duty cycles to maintain boost, I suspect it'll be around 600ish whp/ 570ish wtq. The next time he flies me out, I want to go for 700whp. With any luck, he'll be at the track this weekend running 10's in the 1/4 mile. 11 PSI run after the dyno 15 PSI run on the street, spinning all of 2nd and 3rd gear just past 115 mph, on drag radials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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