derrickdj1 Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Here is a pic I just took on the progress. On the last few subs, I've been using Great Stuff to line the joints and seems. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACV92 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 You make any progress today? Out of curiosity, what are the outer dimensions of the box? It looks like your using 48" clamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS121996 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 On 2/18/2017 at 4:30 PM, derrickdj1 said: No misting, just squirt and keep a rag around to wipe your hands and any drip. I've alwys just glue and go. This is my 10 build so, I am no expert but, they are for my HT/2ch rig. Attention to bracing is a key point. Derrick does nice work, when he had us over, the subs looked great except for the one that got dinged Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACV92 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Ah, you were one of the ones he mentioned earlier. How'd it sound? I presume pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS121996 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 There's definitely bass. If you want it pounding you in the chest, this will do that. Sounded smooth at normal levels. The Dr. in Derrick wanted to remind me what a ultrasound treatment felt like, so he rattled my bones at about 10 HZ Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Ok, it did not happen in 72 hours. I was under the weather and took a couple of days off. I'm back on my game and will get this done except for the painting. The baffles and driver should be in today. the speaker connection box is in and the preliminary wiring is done. Just need to put the t-nut in and bolt down the driver. Then the top can go on along with lining the box with some foam padding. Sanding and the finishing should start in the AM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACV92 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Glad your feeling better. Do you rattle can your cabinets? More than likely I'm going this route. A little sanding, prime, paint with semi-gloss black, and clear. I'm still considering taking it to a cabinet shop and seeing what they would charge to put on a better paint job. Probably cost a small chunk. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 I rattle the cabinets, pictures on the wall, have broken vases, knocked down shelves etc. what are you getting at? All this is not good and needs to be tempered, there is a gain knob. My wife is very tolerant of what I'm doing and makes me replace things if something breaks, like Waterford crystal vases, ouch! There is only the two of us here and no neighbors to worry about so, I get to go crazy sometimes. 90 +% of the time the system operates at 65 to 70 db with 20 db for dynamic peaks. You can have a conversation in the room with the system going 90 +% of the time. Right now, the average spl is 65 db. So, no, I'm not blasting music or movies all the time, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACV92 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 That's funny, nice spin. So, if Pareto has the 80/20 rule, shall we create the derrickdj1 rule of 90/10? 90% of the problems are caused by 10% of the listening habits. It would become a fundamental rule of audiophilia. A beginners look into the abyss. Touching on theory of wives, gain, neighbors, and how to respond after the 10% takes place. Now, when you crack the foundation we may have to adjust the percentages..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 I try to keep things in a practical perspective. There is no way to stop the ULF from going thur the house. I've done the isolation pad, put subs up on stands to decouple from the floor. The bottom line is that these wavelength are so long, some over 100 ft., it is just a fight that can't be won. Sure, you could do a dedicated room with double wall, a seperated ac/heating section that is isolated from the whole house but, the cost benefit ratio has to come into effect. When I choose to watch a movie and cranck thing, we are all down in the basement and what is going on in the rest of the house is not a big deal since everyone is in the basement. My 4 year grandaughter is the biggest fan of my setup and likes messing with the gear. Yes, I let her mess with the amps, bang on the speaker cones, cranck the volume, etc. She can't hurt anything. You can hit the sub drivers with a screw driver and nothing will happen. Volume limit are on the system and you can cranck to max volume and nothing is going to blow. This is a practical system and not a holy grail that cares has to be done to protect it. It is not the most pristine and built like a Ford pickup, ready for the not so pretty stuff. I am fine with this. I give the controls to guess all the time because I know they can't do anything to damage anything. Very family friendly for use. Otherswise what the point if everyone can't use it and have fun. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 We now have almost the complete Marty family in the house. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Later today or tomorrow, I will use a little wood filler, sand down thing for a smooth finish and line the box with some cheap mattress foam. You don't want the good stuff or memory foam. Cheap fits the bill. Why, you don't need to lower the Q of the box, Thick mattress padding decrease the box volume. All you are doing in blocking some upper harmonic frequencies. Lining as minimal effect on long wavelengths in the sub passband. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Great Stuff is interesting looking, is that some sort of expanding foam? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 16 hours ago, ACV92 said: Glad your feeling better. Do you rattle can your cabinets? More than likely I'm going this route. A little sanding, prime, paint with semi-gloss black, and clear. I'm still considering taking it to a cabinet shop and seeing what they would charge to put on a better paint job. Probably cost a small chunk. ACV as a very avid reader over the last year of approximately 500 build threads, this idea is actually quite common. Believe it or not, the guys that take them to a shop do not take them to a cabinet builder. They actually take them to an automotive body shop that specializes in painting and bondo type stuff. They have come away with incredible finishes at very low costs. I think from what I've read it's incredibly easy for a body shop to do as they do it all day every day, and it's just a little box they have to shoot. So there's an idea for you, I have not done this myself, but have seen dozens of builders mention doing this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 It takes a ton of prep work. Here's a BFM T-18 I built out of Baltic Birch. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 The great stuff does goes on like whip cream and expands. It will seal cracks and joints. It's about $4 or 5.00 per can. The body shop if a great ideal for those looking for a pristine finish. It does add cost on a DIY project. For me, black pain covers most defect in workmanship. I am not a master craftsman like Carl or Jason. I know the key things to get right and functionally, the sub will do it's job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 9 minutes ago, CECAA850 said: It takes a ton of prep work. Here's a BFM T-18 I built out of Baltic Birch. Outstanding work Carl. I don't know of any sub maker than can do a better job. I wish you were closer, my friend. I would certainly take advantage of you skills! I remember when you offered help with my first sub build and was very helpful. What valuable expertise on this forum given freely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACV92 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 2 minutes ago, derrickdj1 said: Outstanding work Carl. I don't know of any sub maker than can do a better job. I wish you were closer, my friend. I would certainly take advantage of you skills! No kidding!!! That's looks awesome. If mine, Umax 15 flat pack, comes out half that good I'd be ecstatic. Roboklipsch - I had typed body shop in before, I work in the automotive field, but I thought I'd sound like an idiot. Who takes a sub cabinet to a body shop? I thought that a cabinet shop might have more tricks working with wood since they paint/stain cabinets and all. I'm going to have to go talk to some guys I know..... Question for all. Are there any problems with painting the subwoofer mounting area, where the seal would ride? I was planning on tracing a line around the basket and painting only to that point. I don't know why it would matter either way, I guess. Thoughts are appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Thanks derrick, I appreciate it. That was my first and only sub with that finish. It takes WAY too much work to get a finish like that. I remember turning the cube on it's side over and over while shining a shop light across it looking for pin holes and imperfections. It's very tedious. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Just now, ACV92 said: Question for all. Are there any problems with painting the subwoofer mounting area, where the seal would ride? I was planning on tracing a line around the basket and painting only to that point. I don't know why it would matter either way, I guess. Thoughts are appreciated. It's wasted time. Paint the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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