Jump to content

Easy Tweak To Your Klipsch RF7II's


Recommended Posts

Hi All, 


Just want to inform you of a nice tweak for the RF7II's.  I have changed the jumpers on my speakers a few times,  abandoning the stock brass metal jumpers a few years ago. I have used solid core (JW Audio Cryo Nova), no name aftermarket jumpers, and  bare cable (Audioquest sliver plated copper jumpers).  But the ones that have really beefed up and opened up the midrange have been Mogami 10 gauge.  These  jumpers have made the midrange and highs have a presence I have not heard in the previous years I owned the RF7II's.  I highly recommend them.  By the way, a respected audiophile, Duster, at Audio Asylum posted in the past recommending that for speaker jumpers to get the heaviest gauge possible, as low as 9 gauge.  The fact that I am getting improvement in the midrange presence from these 10 gauge jumpers, backs up his recommendation.  Your mileage may vary, but worth trying. 


Quote from Duster at Audio Asylum: 

"Believe it or not, a jumper really needs a rather massive aggregate gauge in order to provide any body. High conductivity is very important for a bi-wire jumper (bridging from either direction). 

I tested one 20 AWG solid core conductor at a time and found that at least an 11 AWG aggregate gauge per leg was needed. 9 AWG is not uncommon in commercial products."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, wuzzzer said:

What happens when the audio signal goes through the thin gauge wire inside the speaker?


Hahaha.  I had the same thoughts.  However, I can see how there might be some benefit to improving the jumper, just as there is with using the right gauge speaker wire for the distance.  I don't know whats inside my RF-7II, but my Forte II now have pretty decent gauge wire thanks to Crites x-over replacement.  It's also a very short run internally.  

The jumpers from Klipsch are going to be the most economical solution, and maybe not the best conductor.  Why not swap them?  Honestly I hate that they are even there, bi-amping and bi-wiring is rarely done, and when it's done it's rarely done properly (if bi-wiring can even be done properly).


Hmm.  Maybe a better upgrade is to replace the bi-wireable RF-7II terminals with single, eliminate the stupid middle man.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...