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R-110SW / R-112SW / R-115SW Repair Blog


ngen33r

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Hello and greetings from Austria, 

 

I am trying to repair the R-112SW from my Dad. It was always in stand by and after reading your posts i think some capacitors are burned through. Do you think by changing the capacitors the subwoofer will work again? 

 

Here are some pictures: defect amp plate

 

Thanks for your help. 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I have a heartbeat thump every couple seconds and if I play audio it makes a static popping noise. The amp looks brand new.

 

I replaced the resistor that everyone is talking about and the 3 capacitors surrounding along with the two larger capacitors to the right (1000uf).

 

Still getting the same issue. Any thoughts on what to try next? Maybe the nearby transistor?

 

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I’m having the same issue as jdmz, the thump every ~2 seconds. I can’t see anything wrong with it but half of the parts are covered in that protective/anti-vibration coating…it’s happened before but the problem stopped after turning it off for a few minutes. This time, no luck.

 

Can anyone recommend a different replacement? This is the second SPL-150 to go out on me in about 5 years…

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On 8/1/2023 at 9:46 AM, Aldeswari said:

I’m having the same issue as jdmz, the thump every ~2 seconds. I can’t see anything wrong with it but half of the parts are covered in that protective/anti-vibration coating…it’s happened before but the problem stopped after turning it off for a few minutes. This time, no luck.

 

Can anyone recommend a different replacement? This is the second SPL-150 to go out on me in about 5 years…

 

Update: I replace ALL the caps along with the transistor and resistor and it fixed the issue with the thumping sound. The caps all look fine so I am not sure what exactly fixed it. 

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@ngen33r Are you still willing to perform repairs, I got duped by a guy on facebook marketplace, sold me a sub10, amplifier had blown fuse, did not even have klipsch subwoofer in my opinion, not their typical black or gold woofer, was orange/red woofer. I made the mistake of getting my son to pick up and he did not know how to check. Boo Hoo, oh well, just curious if could repair for a price. 

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  • 1 month later...
9 hours ago, StrangeMadness said:

Hi, so I'm looking to buy a klipsch r-112sw. What are the most common problems you run across? Can most of em be prevented by the user or should they be avoided. 

The subs don’t have much of a resale value because if they work they aren’t sold.  Any new electronic is subject to part deterioration from heat/lightning and faulty wiring/misuse.  You might see some resale in military towns, from the person that buys for YouTube reviews and resells, and from the occasional “I over-extended myself” seller, estate sales, otherwise it’s probably stolen merchandise. Others can add their two cents about used gear.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure if thread still has life but, 

 

I've got an R-115SW NA, S/N: 106070115500297 that recently went out. Was working fine with a Pioneer Elite receiver, then I swapped receivers and when I plugged it in I got minimal sound then nothing. Now it rhythmically beats like it is trying to power on and off. It sounds like a heartbeat. The longer it is plugged in the quicker the power cycle rhythm. Afraid to do any more damage at this point. Not sure where to start and am hesitant to crack it up as I am average at best with an iron. Wondering what my options might be? Happy to compensate for time and experience into this.

Cheers.

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Hi all. I’m new to the forum and found it became one of my 2 year old R-112sw has now no sound coming from it. It has power just no sound. My board looks a little different to the ones in this blog, I have this long white part at the top of board, Can someone tell me which caps resistors I should change I don’t have the resistor beside the big caps. Looking at the board nothing looks burnt out or damaged. 
thanks in advance. 
 

 

IMG_5055.jpeg

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Hey community.

 

I have a 112 sw and are very happy with it. After a recent move, I heard a loud rattling sound in some frequencies. I saw that the inner ant outer part of the copper colored membrane are disconnected at some places, producing the described rattle. I do not find an replacement online, but I guess that there are known replacements one can buy to replace it with but my knowledge is very limited. 

 

Could you recommend ones or know about another thread where this was discussed before (and I did not find) 

 

Thanks a lot! 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/15/2023 at 1:45 PM, BillL001 said:

So yeah, the fact that the original R115 amp gets hot while in standby mode is definitely something wrong in its design or in manufactuering - I tend to think it's a bad design, since getting hot on standby mode happened to so many people as a common problem. 

 

I have 2 R-112SWs that have been in continuous service since 2017, always in Auto mode. The plate amps are cool to the touch when not active, and barely warm when in use. By design, it draws less than 1 watt of power when in standby, which obviously wouldn't generate significant heat. I suspect the heat is a symptom of another failure, and that heat causes additional failures. Replacing R39 with a 10W resistor is likely a bandaid over the underlying problem.

 

 At this point, I feel like my R-112SWs are living on borrowed time. Hopefully they live on for many more years (knock on wood). Other than my Onkyo TX-NR818, I've had perfect luck with audio equipment. The Onkyo had a design flaw than the company took responsibility for. Not only did they repair it out of warranty, they covered that particular defect for 4 additional years on all AVRs impacted. That AVR is still performing flawlessly. THAT is a company that stands behind their product.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/24/2019 at 8:38 PM, ngen33r said:

Hello All

I have been repairing Klipsch subwoofer amps for about 15 years as a hobby. I have decided to start blogging my repairs and eventually do videos of each one. This thread is intended to be a blog and a resource for information. I will try to answer repair questions as best I can. Comments and tips are also welcome, If you do not have the experience or the tools, PLEASE do not attempt any of these repairs. You will only end up damaging the board and it will end up costing more for a tech to repair the damage. If you do not have a high quality vacuum desoldering station (Hakko or Weller) and a current limited mains supply, you should not be working on these amps. These subwoofers do not have any user serviceable parts inside. If you open up the sub or attempt any repair you see in this thread, you are doing so at your own risk!!!

 

The main issue that I see with these is a thermal failure. The parts were placed too close together and since almost everyone is too lazy to switch them off when not using them the capacitors just cook and then things start to burn up.

 

ALWAYS REMEMBER TO UNPLUG OR SWITCH OFF YOUR AMPS. CAPACITORS HAVE A LIFESPAN AND WHEN POWER IS APPLIED THE CLOCK IS TICKING. THE AUTO ON/OFF FUNCTION DOES NOT PREVENT THIS ON MOST MODELS!!!!!!!


 

Do you have a list of components for the R115SW board? Resistors, capacitors etc? 
Or does anyone else have this? I am going to replace all caps and resistors on my R115SW next week. And going to order the parts. 
 

Tnx for all reply 

 

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On 10/21/2023 at 4:26 PM, Braat1 said:


 

Do you have a list of components for the R115SW board? Resistors, capacitors etc? 
Or does anyone else have this? I am going to replace all caps and resistors on my R115SW next week. And going to order the parts. 
 

Tnx for all reply 

 

These are the ones I've used with success

Qty Label UF Volt Polarity Part #
3 c38, c42, C1 4.7 50 BiPolar UDB1H4R7MPM
2 c56, C69 10 50 BiPolar UVP1H100MED
4 C19, C54, C80, cap By R40 Behind Large Caps 22 50 Polarized UPW1H220MDD1TD
3 C29, C30, C39 47 25 Polarized UPS1E470MDD1TD
4 C43, C44, C47, C48 100 25 Polarized UPS1V101MPD1TD
1 c18 330 16 Polarized UPS1V331MPD1TD
2 Large Caps 1000 80 Polarized UPJ1K102MHD
1 Resistor 10W820RJ     SQP10AJB-820R
1 Transistor TIP31C       TIP31C
1 U1 IRS2092S PWM
(IRS2092STRPBF)
       
Edited by kdammen
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/23/2023 at 2:21 PM, kdammen said:

 

These are the ones I've used with success

Qty Label UF Volt Polarity Part #
3 c38, c42, C1 4.7 50 BiPolar UDB1H4R7MPM
2 c56, C69 10 50 BiPolar UVP1H100MED
4 C19, C54, C80, cap By R40 Behind Large Caps 22 50 Polarized UPW1H220MDD1TD
3 C29, C30, C39 47 25 Polarized UPS1E470MDD1TD
4 C43, C44, C47, C48 100 25 Polarized UPS1V101MPD1TD
1 c18 330 16 Polarized UPS1V331MPD1TD
2 Large Caps 1000 80 Polarized UPJ1K102MHD
1 Resistor 10W820RJ     SQP10AJB-820R
1 Transistor TIP31C       TIP31C
1 U1 IRS2092S PWM
(IRS2092STRPBF)
       

I've recapped 4 of these so far without issue.  Now I have one completely recapped; no sound still,  and the output transistors test fine.  Have voltage to them too.  PWM chip?

 

TIA!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey,

 

I also have the newest version of the Amp with the resistor on the side of the pcb. I already replaced my Caps, but i still just get a clicking sound every second from it. The voltage from the Base of the two small Transistors stays at 0V, the voltage from the Big transistor Base is okay, as long as i dont connect the speaker. As soon as it’s connected the voltage goes up/down with the frequency of the clicking…

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