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R-110SW / R-112SW / R-115SW Repair Blog


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Hello!  I have an R-112SW sub that has been working fine for 3+ years and recently developed a symptom where the cone pulses every other second or so with no audio input (sub just powered on, no other cables).  When I do run audio through it, it sounds crackly and like crap.  I've gathered from watching videos and reading up on this sub that this failure is rather common and likely due to one or more capacitors failing.


I'm experienced with board level repair for pinball machines and have Hakko soldering equipment as well as a desoldering station, so I'm comfortable with doing the board work.  My question is, tho, how the heck to you remove all this glue from the components and PCB?  I've never seen anything like it - here's photo.


Secondly, can someone provide a list of the cap part numbers that typically are replaced on this R-112SW board?  There's so much glue on it, all of the labels are obscured.


Many thanx,



Klipsch R-112SW Audio Board 2.jpg

Edited by Mathazar
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  • 2 months later...

I've replaced the 820ohm 3w resister with a 10w ceramic one, and ran an extension wire like Davalos did to mount it to backplate.


Question for you electronic experts:  What is that white glue used to attach the resistor to backplate?  With 10w rating I don't know how hot it will get, hopefully cooler than the stock 3w one.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a R-110SW that had a blown speaker, but not the coil, it was the cone wire(not sure how that is called).

I have replaced it and it is working, but I still have an issue which I'm not sure how to find.

It pops every time it starts up.

I'm assuming that it is a bad capacitor at the output section. Am I right assuming that? If yes, which could be, because I couldn't find schematics for this sub.

I would appreciate any help that you can provide.


I have just repaired a SW-115, that was sold as not working for $20. It was a broken Standby switch, that the toggle was  pushed in.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hello, would anyone be interested in trying to help me with a question about the r-12SW board repair that I am working on? I have removed all parts, cleaned up the boars and starting to reinstall. I questioned one of my notes an went to take a review of ngen33r live repair, which is a 115, not a 112. I see that on his the parts list some of the caps ar listed as BP, which i assume means bi polar. I did not notice that when ordering my parts, I take it this mean that I need to reorder these in bipolar? After checking the parts I have removed, these is indeed no stripe in the corresponding parts. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks -marc

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 I still have the above questions as well, but have reordered the bipolars and installed them, hopefully, that was correct.


Dying to plug this thing in and see if I got everything right. Thanks!

Edited by beerguy
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On 10/21/2021 at 12:50 PM, ngen33r said:

I am going to try to answer a whole bunch of questions in 1 post. I am back from a vacation so I have a lot of catching up to do.

I will update this post tonight with the values.



Make sure all bad glue is removed and continue to replace all the CAPS. If this does not work, the PWM IC will need to be replaced.


Please post in the RSW thread.



A full recap might be needed or the PWM IC failed.

Hello, I was hoping someone maybe able to help. I did a fill recap of my board, it turn on, and nothing bad happens, but it will not make noise Can someone explain to me where this item is located and what it does? Thank You!



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still battling with my R-112sw plate. a couple questions if anyone has the time.


Where is the PWM IC? I am getting power, nothing has blown up, but I have no sound. Maybe this is the final step? I did replace the transistor, if that happens to be what this part is BTW?


I see in Nexgens parts list, there are 18 caps in the list. The large 1000uf, large obvious caps are not on this list btw.


I have 19 in my board, and that is how many I took out. I have one extra 22uf and I believe this correlates to location C3? I cannot find it on the board, does anyone know where it is?


My Bipolars, I believe I have pout in correctly, but I did notice that when I ordered, I ordered 35 volt instead of 50 volt. My mistake, is that a hazardous or fatal (operation wise) mistake?


Also the resistor I took out of my board was 680ohm, and I reordered 680 and installed it. I see the list says 820, but that is not what I had.


Any help would be appreciated. This recapp started as skill challenge and a leaning experience, it now has escalated to a battle, that I want to win.

R-12SW board sstripped and clanes.jpg


Edited by beerguy
pictures, one additional question
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,


I'm facing the same issue as many of you with my R-115SW 😪

Many thanks for the sharing and all those information.


Following your experience and instructions, I replaced the faulty resistor (really in bad status...) and caps around (including 1000uF 80V ones) but my issue still persists.

The sub don't support the load, each time I power it on, it goes down in the next minute.


In order to check the entire card and component, I'd like to get the schematic.

Does someone has this document ?

Maybe ngen33r ?


Many thanks for your help 👏

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On 1/18/2020 at 8:08 AM, ngen33r said:

R-112SW plate serial number LH150400882


Had some time tonight to complete another one of these. Repair and full recap. R39 had a meltdown and dried up a few caps and killed the PWM controller power supply. I gooped it pretty good with silicone to dampen the stress on the solder joints so I can let the hot parts breathe a little.




Hi, @ngen33rI have the R-112SW subwoofer which powers off after a few minutes whether in on or auto position. While on it works perfectly which is on On position and in Auto position it does switch on with incoming signal to LFE. I was quoted for replacement of the entire amplifier board which is a bit too expensive. I am waiting for the dealer to return my subwoofer so i can replace the 5 capacitors and resistor. In the event that the resistor value is not readable, what is the value of the existing resistor on the board which you replace with the 5W resistor? On one post I saw you mentioned 820ohm 3W and another guy mentioned his had a 680ohm. Which one is on the R-112SW?

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  • 3 weeks later...

My R-115SW also powered itself off after some minutes. Also have the same problem, the resistor is dead, and the 330uF cap in front of it does not even have its "clothes" on, so could just state it's a 330uF because of your pictures. My board is from 2016 according to the printing on the PCB.


Also, I can't really say which resistor it is, it's too dark already 😅.


I assume that's a 820 Ohm resistor, according to some pictures which have been posted here? I also saw some other sources that put in a 620 Ohm resistor. I really can't read the color rings on mine anymore.


Maybe someone from here can confirm to me if it's a 620 or 820 Ohm resistor? That would be really helpful!


I've ordered some capacitors, all with 105 degrees celsius temp and all with a higher voltage class too - hopefully I will be able to fit them onto the board, with some distance to the PCB itself... and I've ordered a 50 watts 820 ohm resistor - can cope with way too much power than actually needed, but these are just a few bucks difference.


I hope the PWM controller is not damaged. And I also was not aware of these clicking sounds before! 


Fingers crossed, and I will keep you updated with some pictures once I get the parts, hopefully I'll get it to work normally again. :)


Edited by dom
more details, added a question
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  • 2 weeks later...

@beerguy thanks. Once desoldered I could see that it's a 820 Ohm resistor. 


What I can tell from that now: 

(dE)-112SW => 680 Ohm

R-115SW => 820 Ohm


I replaced all THT mounted non-bipolar electrolytic capacitors on the board (did miss that there are bi-polar ones when ordering the components 🙈) with higher-voltage-class ones (and all of them with 105 degrees celsius temperature class - there is enough room for that...) and I've replaced the original 820 Ohm (3 Watts?) resistor that obviously got very hot with one with a one that's a "bit" bigger (50W, mounted on the back-plate) 😅.


Also, I've replaced the TIP31C transistor that is directly beside the "hot" resistor and gave it some clothes to cool down.


This thread was very helpful to me, thanks for sharing that infos guys! :)


And yes last but not least... It works again! 😃






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  • 4 weeks later...

I tried directly messaging you ngen33r, but I guess new members cannot do so until I'm somehow verified to not be a bot/etc.  Sorry to reply to the thread for this question, but I wanted to get your feedback.


The second post of this thread (where you discuss a repair) you mentioned that it's a bad idea to leave the subwoofers on 24/7.  Does that include standby mode where they seem effectively off until they get a signal?  I think the manual said they only draw 0.5w power in standby mode, but would even that significantly reduce the lifespan of the subs?


Thanks for your expert advice!


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