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Hello!  I have an R-112SW sub that has been working fine for 3+ years and recently developed a symptom where the cone pulses every other second or so with no audio input (sub just powered on, no other cables).  When I do run audio through it, it sounds crackly and like crap.  I've gathered from watching videos and reading up on this sub that this failure is rather common and likely due to one or more capacitors failing.


I'm experienced with board level repair for pinball machines and have Hakko soldering equipment as well as a desoldering station, so I'm comfortable with doing the board work.  My question is, tho, how the heck to you remove all this glue from the components and PCB?  I've never seen anything like it - here's photo.


Secondly, can someone provide a list of the cap part numbers that typically are replaced on this R-112SW board?  There's so much glue on it, all of the labels are obscured.


Many thanx,



Klipsch R-112SW Audio Board 2.jpg

Edited by Mathazar
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  • 2 months later...

I've replaced the 820ohm 3w resister with a 10w ceramic one, and ran an extension wire like Davalos did to mount it to backplate.


Question for you electronic experts:  What is that white glue used to attach the resistor to backplate?  With 10w rating I don't know how hot it will get, hopefully cooler than the stock 3w one.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a R-110SW that had a blown speaker, but not the coil, it was the cone wire(not sure how that is called).

I have replaced it and it is working, but I still have an issue which I'm not sure how to find.

It pops every time it starts up.

I'm assuming that it is a bad capacitor at the output section. Am I right assuming that? If yes, which could be, because I couldn't find schematics for this sub.

I would appreciate any help that you can provide.


I have just repaired a SW-115, that was sold as not working for $20. It was a broken Standby switch, that the toggle was  pushed in.

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  • 1 month later...


or can someone measure the voltage across the capacitor c19 during normal operation? the diode ZD6 is connected in parallel with this capacitor

Edited by jurka
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  • 1 month later...

Hello, would anyone be interested in trying to help me with a question about the r-12SW board repair that I am working on? I have removed all parts, cleaned up the boars and starting to reinstall. I questioned one of my notes an went to take a review of ngen33r live repair, which is a 115, not a 112. I see that on his the parts list some of the caps ar listed as BP, which i assume means bi polar. I did not notice that when ordering my parts, I take it this mean that I need to reorder these in bipolar? After checking the parts I have removed, these is indeed no stripe in the corresponding parts. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks -marc

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 I still have the above questions as well, but have reordered the bipolars and installed them, hopefully, that was correct.


Dying to plug this thing in and see if I got everything right. Thanks!

Edited by beerguy
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On 10/21/2021 at 12:50 PM, ngen33r said:

I am going to try to answer a whole bunch of questions in 1 post. I am back from a vacation so I have a lot of catching up to do.

I will update this post tonight with the values.



Make sure all bad glue is removed and continue to replace all the CAPS. If this does not work, the PWM IC will need to be replaced.


Please post in the RSW thread.



A full recap might be needed or the PWM IC failed.

Hello, I was hoping someone maybe able to help. I did a fill recap of my board, it turn on, and nothing bad happens, but it will not make noise Can someone explain to me where this item is located and what it does? Thank You!



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I have a r115sw that is making the famous clicking noise even when unplugged.  From reading your posts it sounds like my board is  in need of repair.  Please let me know if you can repair this item and the approximate cost.  




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still battling with my R-112sw plate. a couple questions if anyone has the time.


Where is the PWM IC? I am getting power, nothing has blown up, but I have no sound. Maybe this is the final step? I did replace the transistor, if that happens to be what this part is BTW?


I see in Nexgens parts list, there are 18 caps in the list. The large 1000uf, large obvious caps are not on this list btw.


I have 19 in my board, and that is how many I took out. I have one extra 22uf and I believe this correlates to location C3? I cannot find it on the board, does anyone know where it is?


My Bipolars, I believe I have pout in correctly, but I did notice that when I ordered, I ordered 35 volt instead of 50 volt. My mistake, is that a hazardous or fatal (operation wise) mistake?


Also the resistor I took out of my board was 680ohm, and I reordered 680 and installed it. I see the list says 820, but that is not what I had.


Any help would be appreciated. This recapp started as skill challenge and a leaning experience, it now has escalated to a battle, that I want to win.

R-12SW board sstripped and clanes.jpg


Edited by beerguy
pictures, one additional question
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,


I'm facing the same issue as many of you with my R-115SW 😪

Many thanks for the sharing and all those information.


Following your experience and instructions, I replaced the faulty resistor (really in bad status...) and caps around (including 1000uF 80V ones) but my issue still persists.

The sub don't support the load, each time I power it on, it goes down in the next minute.


In order to check the entire card and component, I'd like to get the schematic.

Does someone has this document ?

Maybe ngen33r ?


Many thanks for your help 👏

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