R-110SW / R-112SW / R-115SW Repair Blog

[mood]

The message board won't allow me to private message anyone so I can't directly connect with anyone who could help me repair my sub....not sure how to proceed here.  

[JohnJ]

4 minutes ago, mood said:

The message board won't allow me to private message anyone so I can't directly connect with anyone who could help me repair my sub....not sure how to proceed here.  

Hey there, welcome to the forums!

It takes a little bit after you join before everything become available to ya. 

*Try typing the individuals name with an @      in front of it. You will see the choices pop up in a menu then click the correct one. They will be notified!

Edited March 6, 2021 by JohnJ
*

[LawCPA]

Klipsch ended up swapping the 115sw due to the cone pulsing repeatedly for the SPL 150 brand new. Sold my 4 subs and going to sell the SPL 150 and wash my hands clean of Klipsch subs permanently. I got 2 Monolith 15 THX ultra subs and they’re great.


Home Theater Gear:

Denon AVR-X4200W (Auro-3D upgrade)
Parasound HCA-1206
Denon DCM-560 5 CD changer
Sony UBP-X800 4K Blu-ray / Apple TV 4K
Epson Home Cinema 2100 Projector
Speakers: 2 x Klipsch RP-280F, 1 x Klipsch RP-450C, 2 x Klipsch RP-250S, 4 x Klipsch RP-500SA, 1 x Monoprice Monolith 15 THX

 

[ngen33r]

#3

 

[stev65]

pic.1  pic.2  pic.3

I just bought. This is a newer version, I hope it doesn't bug later. :)

(Sorry, failed to upload images.)

 

[Gar]

My SPL-150 also has this new amp.  It looks like they extended the circuit board and moved the resistor to that new area (along with all the new silk screen markings).  The resistor is still right next to a cap, just on the other side.  Not sure how hot this new resistor gets.

 

The best advice is still to cut all power to the amp completely when not in use.  Use a triggered switch that some power conditioners have or use a smart powerbar that can be triggered with 12v from your receiver so the sub amp powers on only when your receiver is powered on and set the sub to always on.

Edited March 22, 2021 by Gar

[Michel84]

Does somebody know the value of R38 (0805 resistor), it is connected to pin 15 (VB) of U1 (IRS2092S)?

 

[kdammen]

I have a R-112SW that's not dead, but it creates a clicking sound and the output sound is terrible (almost like a blown woofer, it's not as I tested with another amp). Any idea what's the cause? My resistor does look hot as the covering is flaking off, but I don't see signs of heat damage around it like other photos in this tread. 

[Nemesis200SX]

Hello

 

does a R-115SW Amp fit in a R-112SW Subwoofer? I need to replace the Amp (old one with bad power suply) of my R-112SW and could get an improved R-115SW Amp quite cheap

[ngen33r]

 

[hamfist]

Hello!  Boy am I happy I found this community!

my rig -

Onkyo TX-NR636

Klipsch 

 RB-41 II Bookshelf

 RS-41 II Surround

 RC-42 II Center 

 R-110SW Subwoofer

 

And its mr subwoofer that's giving me grief.  HUGE CRACKLES.  

 

ON - crackles

AUTO - quiet if switching from standby, continues the ol' snap crackle pop if coming down from ON 

STANDBY - quiet

 

 

not  connected to either input

levels all turned down.

 

I tested in my neighbors house, so I'm pretty sure the electric is OK.

 

Any ideas/suggestions?  Any multitester type things I can test?

Thanks in advance,

Evan

 

[plingplong]

do you have an idea whats wrong witht the sub when it creates a clicking sound, and output sound is terrible, sound like a blown speaker. Is there maybe something wrong with the powersuply, it not deliver enought power to the amplifyer?

 

 

[kdammen]

On 8/6/2021 at 6:32 AM, plingplong said:

do you have an idea whats wrong witht the sub when it creates a clicking sound, and output sound is terrible, sound like a blown speaker. Is there maybe something wrong with the powersuply, it not deliver enought power to the amplifyer?

 

 

I have the exact same problem. I tried replacing the resistor, but no luck. My next plan is try the caps and transistor. Perhaps @ngen33r knows?

 

Edit: I just pulled the transistor and it tested out good on my multimeter. I'm stumped. 

Edited September 21, 2021 by kdammen

[ngen33r]

You always have to recap with the resistor.

[Navest]

@ngen33r Thank you for the amazing work you do! Could you please tell me the values of the two resistors just behind the two big capacitors at R16? That would be a big help!

[kdammen]

I just want to report that I got my amp working after replacing the caps. Thanks ngen!

[Zony]

Hallo at all.

My english is Not the best but mayby you understand me.

 

Our r112sw making a "tiking" noise when i Turn the Switch on.

 

I replaced the dirt Resistor and three electrolytics around the RResistor but the "tiking" noise is still there. 

 

 

Edited October 8, 2021 by Zony

[Ablejedi]

Hello - I recently "inherited" an RSW 10d sub. I thought it was fully operational - all seemed ok when plugged in and configuring via the top panel, and the when moved and connected to source material the top panel went to pulsing/flickering, and the sound went in and out. @ngen33r - would you be willing to look at it, and if so how do you work on things like this. I'm in Dallas area.

[DAVALOS]

Hi @ngen33r,

 

Thanks for this blog and for your science.

I'm Martin from France and I will appreciate a bit of your help with my R115SW amp to try to save him.

 

I bought it from second hand, replaced the famous burned resistor and the 3 capacitors arround.

 

That worked for arround 50 hours before a few crackes sounds appeared sometimes.

Now I have no sound at all. The front light is green, and the speaker is good.

 

Do you know from where I should start ?

When you said "recap", are you talking about replacing all PCB capacitors ?

 

I'm not an electronic but a mechanic and I only have a multimeter tester.

But I will be happy to learn more about it !

 

Martin

[ngen33r]

I am going to try to answer a whole bunch of questions in 1 post. I am back from a vacation so I have a lot of catching up to do.
 

On 10/3/2021 at 3:50 AM, Navest said:

@ngen33r Thank you for the amazing work you do! Could you please tell me the values of the two resistors just behind the two big capacitors at R16? That would be a big help!

I will update this post tonight with the values.

 

 

On 10/8/2021 at 11:10 AM, Zony said:

Hallo at all.

My english is Not the best but mayby you understand me.

 

Our r112sw making a "tiking" noise when i Turn the Switch on.

 

I replaced the dirt Resistor and three electrolytics around the RResistor but the "tiking" noise is still there. 

 

 

Make sure all bad glue is removed and continue to replace all the CAPS. If this does not work, the PWM IC will need to be replaced.
 

 

On 10/8/2021 at 10:55 PM, Ablejedi said:

Hello - I recently "inherited" an RSW 10d sub. I thought it was fully operational - all seemed ok when plugged in and configuring via the top panel, and the when moved and connected to source material the top panel went to pulsing/flickering, and the sound went in and out. @ngen33r - would you be willing to look at it, and if so how do you work on things like this. I'm in Dallas area.

Please post in the RSW thread.

 

On 10/17/2021 at 1:06 PM, DAVALOS said:

Hi @ngen33r,

 

Thanks for this blog and for your science.

I'm Martin from France and I will appreciate a bit of your help with my R115SW amp to try to save him.

 

I bought it from second hand, replaced the famous burned resistor and the 3 capacitors arround.

 

That worked for arround 50 hours before a few crackes sounds appeared sometimes.

Now I have no sound at all. The front light is green, and the speaker is good.

 

Do you know from where I should start ?

When you said "recap", are you talking about replacing all PCB capacitors ?

 

I'm not an electronic but a mechanic and I only have a multimeter tester.

But I will be happy to learn more about it !

 

Martin

 

 

 

A full recap might be needed or the PWM IC failed.