Superkala Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 I have the RS-115sw does anybody repair these? My light is off now and not working. Can I buy a new one or send it somewhere for repair?? Please let me know ASAP. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Håvardc Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 (edited) On 11/22/2023 at 4:59 PM, JohnnyWalk3r said: Hey, I also have the newest version of the Amp with the resistor on the side of the pcb. I already replaced my Caps, but i still just get a clicking sound every second from it. The voltage from the Base of the two small Transistors stays at 0V, the voltage from the Big transistor Base is okay, as long as i dont connect the speaker. As soon as it’s connected the voltage goes up/down with the frequency of the clicking… Hey Johnny. Did you get the amp running? I also have the new version and get the klikking sound. If replacing all the caps doesn't help, I would like to know what does. I don't want to do the unnecessary job of removing the glue and changing all the caps if the problem lies elsewhere. There is some yellow resedue on top of one of the large 1000uh capacitors, but don't know if its sweat or some marking form the factory. Edited January 20 by Håvardc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 (edited) On 1/10/2024 at 10:56 PM, eduardofsjr said: Hello, I have a R-115SW unit since 2019. For the last 6 months I left it disconnected (no power cord and no signal cable). Now I turned it on: front LED is on, but no sound (buzz test failed too). I can’t see any burned component. I tried to check some voltages: +5 VDC: OK +-15 VDC: zero +- 62 VDC: zero I disconnected the cables that go to audio pcb. I had read here in this topic about connecting 5V to PSON/OFF: still no +-15V or +-62V (CN2). Edit: different GNDs (15V and 5V connectors), so disconsider this PSON part, because GNDs were not connected. Any suggestion? Update: 7915A regulator (U3): Input: -0,43 V A6069H (U50): Vcc: 9,43 V Edited January 22 by eduardofsjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 (edited) Hi folks, I got an SPL-120 very similar to these r115-sw ones. The problem is hearing heartbeat every 2-3 seconds with a moving membrane without any signal providing. I simply plug it in and it starts doing that pop sound. I switches the main capacitors, because one on the main side was leaking but still the same problem. I just tested the small capacitors directly under the minus-speaker-pole and there are C83/84/85. C83 does a beep sound on my multimeter, ther other 2 not. Can this be the problem? Every other capacitor looks fine. What capacitor is C83 if it's broken? What do you guys think? Edited January 22 by DerHouy image added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 @Roamin Oh man I got the SPL-120. I hope it's not the thing you described on my one. What did you pay for this stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 On 1/19/2024 at 11:44 PM, Superkala said: I have the RS-115sw does anybody repair these? My light is off now and not working. Can I buy a new one or send it somewhere for repair?? Please let me know ASAP. Scott I do... google the company name in my profile picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 11 hours ago, DerHouy said: Hi folks, I got an SPL-120 very similar to these r115-sw ones. The problem is hearing heartbeat every 2-3 seconds with a moving membrane without any signal providing. I simply plug it in and it starts doing that pop sound. I switches the main capacitors, because one on the main side was leaking but still the same problem. I just tested the small capacitors directly under the minus-speaker-pole and there are C83/84/85. C83 does a beep sound on my multimeter, ther other 2 not. Can this be the problem? Every other capacitor looks fine. What capacitor is C83 if it's broken? What do you guys think? Replace the 22uf 50v capacitor that is in the top left edge of your picture; you can see just the very edge of it in black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 On 1/20/2024 at 1:47 PM, Håvardc said: Hey Johnny. Did you get the amp running? I also have the new version and get the klikking sound. If replacing all the caps doesn't help, I would like to know what does. I don't want to do the unnecessary job of removing the glue and changing all the caps if the problem lies elsewhere. There is some yellow resedue on top of one of the large 1000uh capacitors, but don't know if its sweat or some marking form the factory. Change the one circled in red.. 22uf 50v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roamin Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 7 hours ago, DerHouy said: @Roamin Oh man I got the SPL-120. I hope it's not the thing you described on my one. What did you pay for this stuff? Measure the voltage on the big resistor that is connected to the power transistor in the middle of the board (in my case it's a TIP31C). Does it change every time your amp pops? If so the IRS2092 is most likely to blame.. The short circuit protection kicks in and then resets , causing the woofer to pop constantly. The part is 5$ CAD from Digikey.. search for IRS2092STRPBFCT-ND on their site. You might want to change a few caps too, it can't hurt. About that beep on your capacitor, does it beep constantly or does it stop after a moment? Does it beep if you reverse the probes ? If it stops after a moment or doesn't beep with probes reversed I wouldn't worry about it. Are the voltages present on the connectors? 5V ? +-15v +-62 (on my specific board it's +-45v)? If all voltages are there I really wouldn't worry about that capacitor, it's common to have capacitors on power lines making the meter beep for a short moment , or sometimes with the probes in one way but not the other , depending on the circuit configuration.. On 1/10/2024 at 10:26 PM, Rossi32s said: Replace the caps around the TIP31, and replace the cap sitting by itself to the right of the IRS IC. Did 7+ of these today.. The caps on my board are fine, only the IRS2092 needed to be changed. On my specific board , for a SPL-100 sub , the resistor doesn't get hot at all and no parts around it were worn or damaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Thanks @Rossi32s and @Roamin I'll try that. Thanks for all the information and help. @Roamin It does constantly beep with probes reversed too. I haven't measured the voltage because I got no real tools, only a multimeter without capacity test. I'm also a very beginner, I just watched tons of videos and tried to use the short circuit method and resistance to find bad stuff. Would try the voltage but seen so many people saying I shouldn't if I don't have proper equipment for safety. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roamin Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 18 hours ago, DerHouy said: Thanks @Rossi32s and @Roamin I'll try that. Thanks for all the information and help. @Roamin It does constantly beep with probes reversed too. I haven't measured the voltage because I got no real tools, only a multimeter without capacity test. I'm also a very beginner, I just watched tons of videos and tried to use the short circuit method and resistance to find bad stuff. Would try the voltage but seen so many people saying I shouldn't if I don't have proper equipment for safety. I wouldn't worry about this capacitor for now. How does the one just above, C85 , react? Does it also beep? Those cap are right in the vicinity of the 2 jumpers that are in place of coils and it's very possible that they are in parallel with those jumpers (which are labelled as coils on the board) and could have been to suppress interference around those coils.. The very first thing to focus on in any reparation is always the voltage. A multimeter that can read DC voltage up to around 100v is all you really need in order to measure voltage in this amplifier and if you are stable enough when handling the probes, there shouldn't be any risks at all. One of the first thing I was thought in school when I learned electronics was that when you are about to measure something with your probes , you always place at least 1 finger from each hands or part of the hand on a stable surface and never have your hands just floating around. It stabilizes your hands and the probes and you have less chances of slipping and shorting something with the probes. The voltages on this board are quite easy to measure if your probes are thin enough to simply insert them in the pins on the side where the wires come into the sockets. The cable that has 2 wires is labeled with 5v and GND. Keeping your black probe on the GND pin you can measure all the voltages with the red probe. You can measure the 5v on that connector , the +15/-15 on the connector with 4 wires, and the -42/+42(or 62 volts depending on the board) from the thicker wired 3 pin connector. You can also measure the voltage on the big resistor I mentioned before and see if it fluctuates from -0.4 to -4 volts. If it fluctuates with every pop , the irs2092 is most likely acting up.. You might need help changing that part though because it is not easy to do since it has small pins and it is in an awkward location.. But if you pinpoint the problem you can probably have someone change that chip (and maybe some capacitors too) for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 7 hours ago, Roamin said: I wouldn't worry about this capacitor for now. How does the one just above, C85 , react? Does it also beep? Those cap are right in the vicinity of the 2 jumpers that are in place of coils and it's very possible that they are in parallel with those jumpers (which are labelled as coils on the board) and could have been to suppress interference around those coils.. The very first thing to focus on in any reparation is always the voltage. A multimeter that can read DC voltage up to around 100v is all you really need in order to measure voltage in this amplifier and if you are stable enough when handling the probes, there shouldn't be any risks at all. One of the first thing I was thought in school when I learned electronics was that when you are about to measure something with your probes , you always place at least 1 finger from each hands or part of the hand on a stable surface and never have your hands just floating around. It stabilizes your hands and the probes and you have less chances of slipping and shorting something with the probes. The voltages on this board are quite easy to measure if your probes are thin enough to simply insert them in the pins on the side where the wires come into the sockets. The cable that has 2 wires is labeled with 5v and GND. Keeping your black probe on the GND pin you can measure all the voltages with the red probe. You can measure the 5v on that connector , the +15/-15 on the connector with 4 wires, and the -42/+42(or 62 volts depending on the board) from the thicker wired 3 pin connector. You can also measure the voltage on the big resistor I mentioned before and see if it fluctuates from -0.4 to -4 volts. If it fluctuates with every pop , the irs2092 is most likely acting up.. You might need help changing that part though because it is not easy to do since it has small pins and it is in an awkward location.. But if you pinpoint the problem you can probably have someone change that chip (and maybe some capacitors too) for you. @Roamin, I don’t have +- 15V and +- 62V. I measured zero volt at the input of -15V regulator. 5V is fine. Can you share any idea where to check more voltages and find a defective component? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roamin Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 (edited) 15 hours ago, eduardofsjr said: @Roamin, I don’t have +- 15V and +- 62V. I measured zero volt at the input of -15V regulator. 5V is fine. Can you share any idea where to check more voltages and find a defective component? Thanks! If you don't have those voltages , I suggest you unplug both these connectors on the amplifier side, and plug the power to your sub. Are the voltages there in the disconnected connectors ? On the power supply itself? If those voltages aren't present then the problem definitely starts in the PSU (power supply unit). Disconnecting the cables from the amp would ensure that it isn't the amplifier itself pulling down the voltages, but I kinda doubt it anyways. I did not need to check anything on my power supply and don't have any pictures of it , but if you take good pictures of yours I can always guide you through different tests to do on it. The PSU didn't really seem to be that complicated so finding the fault should be fairly easy. One thing I liked about the design of the amp is that it uses easy to find components and doesn't rely on parts you can only find in Asia and I'm pretty sure it's the same for the PSU. Edit : Re-reading your past posts , I grasp that you already did disconnect the amplifier to check the voltages. Get some close up , top down pictures of the PSU , even better would be pictures of the solder side as well and I'll try to help you find the fault. I have but 1 picture of my power supplies but I can't see anything at all on them from this distance, but with the size of the transformers it's safe to say it's kinda separated in 2 sides , the 5v and the higher voltages on the other side.. Edited January 25 by Roamin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 (edited) @Roamin, thank you! Here are some pictures of the PSU. Edit: Left side of that white line, where we can see D1, D2, D3 and D4: zero volt Right side: Big capacitors: 165 Vdc Some points: 330 Vdc Big soldering points next to white line, upper side: zero Edited January 26 by eduardofsjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 (edited) @Roamin Updates: U1 (SSC9522S) controls power mosfet (Q1 on top side) Vcc when PSON=5V: 8.6V Vcc comes from A6069H Vcc (9.3 V), but not directly. What are the expected Vcc voltages for both ICs? Edited January 29 by eduardofsjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 (edited) On 1/24/2024 at 4:24 AM, Roamin said: I wouldn't worry about this capacitor for now. How does the one just above, C85 , react? Does it also beep? Those cap are right in the vicinity of the 2 jumpers that are in place of coils and it's very possible that they are in parallel with those jumpers (which are labelled as coils on the board) and could have been to suppress interference around those coils.. The very first thing to focus on in any reparation is always the voltage. A multimeter that can read DC voltage up to around 100v is all you really need in order to measure voltage in this amplifier and if you are stable enough when handling the probes, there shouldn't be any risks at all. One of the first thing I was thought in school when I learned electronics was that when you are about to measure something with your probes , you always place at least 1 finger from each hands or part of the hand on a stable surface and never have your hands just floating around. It stabilizes your hands and the probes and you have less chances of slipping and shorting something with the probes. The voltages on this board are quite easy to measure if your probes are thin enough to simply insert them in the pins on the side where the wires come into the sockets. The cable that has 2 wires is labeled with 5v and GND. Keeping your black probe on the GND pin you can measure all the voltages with the red probe. You can measure the 5v on that connector , the +15/-15 on the connector with 4 wires, and the -42/+42(or 62 volts depending on the board) from the thicker wired 3 pin connector. You can also measure the voltage on the big resistor I mentioned before and see if it fluctuates from -0.4 to -4 volts. If it fluctuates with every pop , the irs2092 is most likely acting up.. You might need help changing that part though because it is not easy to do since it has small pins and it is in an awkward location.. But if you pinpoint the problem you can probably have someone change that chip (and maybe some capacitors too) for you. Wow thank you very much, that took time to answer in such a manner. I really appreciate your help and informations. You guys are great. C83 just does beep and has 0 resistance when testing, C84 and C85 both have 2.3k Ohm and don't beep. If the guides out there are right, the caps should be fine. Tested them outside the board with the resistance mode, the guide said, if it loads up in resistance mode and goes to infinity they should be fine. I hope that's right. The voltages are fine on the amp board. I have the 5v, -15/15 and the 60 volts. The smartphone with the thermal camera from my gf shows it's hot around the area of On/Of/Auto and Gain knobs, but it's very broad. It doesn't show specific values nor the exact area. I wasn't able to get new caps yet. Looks like I need to buy stuff for 50€ on DigiKey to get all the stuff. Because otherwise I pay about 18€ for shipping only :d Edit: Okay, I guess desoldering the 16v 22uf or (220uf)? wasn't a good idea because I destroyed the port and a little bit of the line on the upper side xD Will try to find a repair cafe near, before I do even more damage. Soldering/Desoldering lead free is hard. I remember it was much easier with lead =/ Theoretically if I make the red outline blank that the copper shows up again, I could put solder on it and connect it to the other side right? Thank you @Roamin and all of you. Edited January 28 by DerHouy images added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I just fixed the broken pads "as good as I can as an beginner" and the sub works again. I replaced one of the big main caps (because it was broke), and the3 capacitors shown in the picture. Because I switched one capacitor before the 16v 330uf, I guess it was the 16v 330uf one, who was broke. One more question, the dark lines are the real connections, right? Because I scraped it off a little bit on the broken one to get a connection to the copper underneath. Thanks so far guys, at least it works again. Hopefully I did everything right and the broken pad isn't connected wrong now xD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 @DerHouy or anyone, can you measure the voltage at this pin (Vcc, pin 5)? You can use heatsink as ground or the pin 3 of this IC. I got 9.3 V and I suspect it should be higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 @eduardofsjr Had to give the sub back, wasn't mine. I could test it in a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerHouy Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 @eduardofsjr Had to give the sub back, wasn't mine. I could test it in a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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