eduardofsjr Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 (edited) On 1/30/2024 at 2:47 PM, DerHouy said: @eduardofsjr Had to give the sub back, wasn't mine. I could test it in a week. @DerHouy, thanks! Please share with us when you can. I am still investigating this part of PSU. I am getting 5V (V_out), but Vcc of A6069H is only 9.3V (maybe Vcc bias according to datasheet). This Vcc feeds the main IC of PSU (15V and 62V) when you move the power switch to ON. But undervoltage of this main IC (SSC9522S) is 9.8 V. Thus, no power output. Edit: Resistance at auxiliary winding D is huge (megaohms) and unstable. Did I find the problem? Edit 2: Yes, that was the problem. I removed the transformer and soldered a new wire to the transformer socket. Then the resistance returned to 1.5 ohm and Vcc is around 17 volts. Subwoofer is working properly and now I’m using the 12V trigger from Denon AVR to control the main AC power of the subwoofer (AC outlet). Edited March 19 by eduardofsjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 On 2/2/2024 at 1:48 PM, eduardofsjr said: @DerHouy, thanks! Please share with us when you can. I am still investigating this part of PSU. I am getting 5V (V_out), but Vcc of A6069H is only 9.3V (maybe Vcc bias according to datasheet). This Vcc feeds the main IC of PSU (15V and 62V) when you move the power switch to ON. But undervoltage of this main IC (SSC9522S) is 9.8 V. Thus, no power output. Edit: Resistance at auxiliary winding D is huge (megaohms) and unstable. Did I find the problem? Hi there! I'm encountering a similar issue. I'm also facing a lack of both +15V and -62V. The 2200uF/63V capacitors have been blowing up one after another. Despite attempting replacements, one of them blew up again. Fortunately, I managed to disconnect the power cord in time to prevent further damage. I also replaced the rectifier connected to these capacitors, but the problem persists. The capacitors began heating up rapidly, prompting me to disconnect them immediately. Regarding the "winding D" you mentioned, is it the separate coil located next to the transformer? I conducted measurements on it, and it appears to be functioning correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 @Krisztoszteron Yes, the little transformer, for 5V, close to A6069H IC. There is no continuity in this auxiliary coil. Primary coil: 5 ohms Secondary coil: 0.2 ohms I suppose this is the fault… No high Vcc, no power to main IC (controller of higher voltages) The transformer has a code: 042-010317-001ZR I could not find any specification to replace it. I’ll try to desolder and check the transformer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 11 hours ago, eduardofsjr said: @Krisztoszteron Yes, the little transformer, for 5V, close to A6069H IC. There is no continuity in this auxiliary coil. Primary coil: 5 ohms Secondary coil: 0.2 ohms I suppose this is the fault… No high Vcc, no power to main IC (controller of higher voltages) The transformer has a code: 042-010317-001ZR I could not find any specification to replace it. I’ll try to desolder and check the transformer. The mentioned small transformer seems good to me. I measure 5 and 0.2 ohms on it. So, the problem is likely somewhere else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 (edited) @Krisztoszteron, did you get 0.2 ohms on those marked pins (picture that I posted) too? Transformer pins connected to ground and R56 resistor. I appreciate if you can measure it for me! About the problem of your PSU, I suggest checking diodes, resistors, capacitors. Try to check and understand the “path” of current from transformers to output. Edited February 7 by eduardofsjr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbee Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Well, it look like I need to join this thread. My Klipsch R-112SW subwoofer suddenly just started making a popping noise every second or two. From reading this thread and other websites, it seems like the unit is hosed and needs repair. I'm not comfortable repairing electronics and am in Austin, Texas. Anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 6 hours ago, eduardofsjr said: @Krisztoszteron, did you get 0.2 ohms on those marked pins (picture that I posted) too? Transformer pins connected to ground and R56 resistor. I appreciate if you can measure it for me! About the problem of your PSU, I suggest checking diodes, resistors, capacitors. Try to check and understand the “path” of current from transformers to output. I'll do that for you tomorrow. I hope we can get closer to the solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 Here are my measurements: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 @Krisztoszteron, thanks for the information! Now I’m sure this transformer needs repair on my board. About your case: There are few components on the left side of the board. Check diodes, resistors. What are DC voltages before transformer (right side)? I measured 330 V (be careful). AC input: 120V You can disconnect audio board from PSU (5V, 15V+PSON, 62V). You should get only 5V on the left side, but the other side should work OK, except main transformer, because SSC9522S is off (no power on signal) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 7 hours ago, eduardofsjr said: @Krisztoszteron, thanks for the information! Now I’m sure this transformer needs repair on my board. About your case: There are few components on the left side of the board. Check diodes, resistors. What are DC voltages before transformer (right side)? I measured 330 V (be careful). AC input: 120V You can disconnect audio board from PSU (5V, 15V+PSON, 62V). You should get only 5V on the left side, but the other side should work OK, except main transformer, because SSC9522S is off (no power on signal) The diodes and resistors appear to be functioning properly. The diodes are not shorted and allow current to flow in only one direction. So i'm assuming, they are not faulty. The DC voltage on the high voltage side of the PCB is around 310V. I could measure the voltage at the output by soldering in good capacitors, and plugging the PSU in only for a second. It was around 80V, so the high voltage was the reason why the capacitors blew up (they were rated only for 63V). So I just need to find, what's the reason of that. Maybe the amp is damaged too because of the higher voltage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 What value should I get at R20? (the component next to the three diodes). The multimeter cannot read any resistance value and the top of the component is black, so I cannot read any information from that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 @Krisztoszteron I just measured 1.000 k ohm. It is possible to read “102” (1000 ohms) at R20 in my last picture too, if you need a picture reference of another board. At output, there are 4 capacitors (3300 uF 80V) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 I could only find a through-hole technology (THT) resistor, so I tested it using that. However, the voltage remains high at the output, and the resistor that I replaced is getting warm. Therefore, I'm assuming that something else is also faulty, which likely caused the original 1k resistor to burn out. My power supply is not identical to yours. Upon examining the images, I noticed that there are additional components on your board that are not present on mine, and vice versa. My stock four capacitors are rated for 63V and has a capacitance of 2200uF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 Could you measure the optocoupler pins for me? I'm uncertain if there might be an issue, but my measurements seem to be incorrect. I'm obtaining the same value on the internal diode of the optocoupler when measured in reverse polarity as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 2 hours ago, Krisztoszteron said: Could you measure the optocoupler pins for me? I'm uncertain if there might be an issue, but my measurements seem to be incorrect. I'm obtaining the same value on the internal diode of the optocoupler when measured in reverse polarity as well. U4: approximately 1 volt drop, both directions. U6: approximately 1 volt drop, just one direction U51: approximately 0.6 volt drop, both directions Parallel components affect measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 Does anyone need these? $40 each/$80 for both, delivered anywhere in the US. I can assure you the SMPS boards are bad on both and the amp boards likely only need the caps around the resistor replaced(we would recap the whole thing if we were repairing them). The amp boards have not been worked on; The SMPS boards were likely thrown on the Huntron to determine the failure, and with all the white glue on the power supplies, we don't replace components covered in the glue. We are getting so many of these in that we have no desire to fix these excess units and sell them working. These come in from customers only wanting one fixed but send 2 for a discount on their repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Håvardc Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 On 1/23/2024 at 5:04 AM, Rossi32s said: Change the one circled in red.. 22uf 50v Thak you! That worked like a charm👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seb FR 33170 Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Le 23/01/2024 à 05:04, Rossi32s a déclaré : Changez celui encerclé en rouge.. 22uf 50v Hi, I had this "click" problem every 3 seconds. I replaced this capacitor and my problem is resolved. Well done and thank you Rossi32s. A little Frenchy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwank Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 I just pulled my amp off because my LED wasn't turning on with the subwoofer. That was just a loose connection, but I noticed some over heated caps and google sent me to this thread. I guess mine is on its way out anyday now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmmboost Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 (edited) Hey guys, new on here but I've found this thread INCREDIBLY helpful. Thank you so much for all of the detailed information on here. I'm working on an amp that is also made by Indigo, but it's a little different from the usual units around here. I'm really hoping to get some help with some component ID's. The subwoofer is an Energy ESW-C10. Purchased used and was stated to be working, but when I got it home it ended up being dead, so I replace the fuse. Blew that one too. Took the amp out and immediately saw the corrosion from the glue, a bulging top on one of the 220uF 200V caps, and thermistor with a chunk blown out of it. Here's the issue, I need help identifying the two resistors that were baked under the crispy glue by the PDC board. I tried to clean off as much glue as possible to be able to read the color codes, but the paint was damaged as well. I'm hoping someone has some experience with this amplifier or can help me identify the resistors. Edited March 29 by mmmboost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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