lena Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 Hi I was wondering where one can find good, ACCURATE blueprints for Khorns, La Scalas, and Belles???? _Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lena Posted February 27, 2003 Author Share Posted February 27, 2003 Please somebody throw me a bone - anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted February 27, 2003 Share Posted February 27, 2003 IENA, From my experience with readily available "bootleg" plans for LaScalas and Klipschorns, they are never TOTALLY accurate to the original design. As far as I know, there are no Belle plans floating about. Reverse-engineering a set of plans for the LaScala is not that difficult, when using an original factory speaker to take the measurements from. The same can be said for the Belle. On the other hand, the Klipschorn is a different story, due to the difficulty of being able to aquire accurate measurements of some of its parts within its basshorn. For the K-horn, it may be better to aquire a set of the Speakerlab plans and get access to an original speaker to verify the dimensions...and go from there. LaScala plans can be found on the following website, but...these plans are in metric dimensions and DO HAVE given dimensional errors and/or modifications(of dubious sonic value) added to them, so beware when using these and anticipating things(especially the wing section pieces, and the horn lens openings) to fit properly: http://baseportal.de/baseportal?htx=/Data/exdreamaudio/bauplaene I hope this helps you out some! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdnfay Posted February 27, 2003 Share Posted February 27, 2003 Hi All, HDBR is right on the money. When I built my K-horns, I bought a set of speakerlab plans and used my factory built K-horns as a guide. Some of the measurements from speakerlab plans are not exactly right. That is if you want to build exact replicas. The plans are good for step by step construction. I'm sure as HDBR will tell you, you need some decent carpentry skill to put K-horns together. If you have any questions, drop me an email. Big D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted February 27, 2003 Share Posted February 27, 2003 I built a pair of K-Horns based partially on the SpeakerLab plans. I inaccurately concluded that 3/4 inch ply should be used. That was a lot of extra work. Later I found out that the factory K-Horns do use 1/2 inch. Headslap. So it was un-necessary. On the other hand, some home builders have advocated 3/4 inch. None the less, because of the above I don't know where the purported errors might be. We've had some word from Klipsch people that the SpeakerLab plans are a good replica of the bass bin. Of course they do not follow the factory units for the top cabinet. It is not tall enough to put the tweeter over the midrange . . . SL put it at the side. There is something to be said for a shorter top section if you want to minimize height. If you don't want to put the tweeter at the side, you can place it in the mouth of the midrange horn, which Klipsch did in a few situations. In my view, small divergence from any set of plans will not affect the performance. Of course they do have to fit together with no gaps. That second requirement can be tough. LaScala or Belle type horns are much more easy to build. Consider that all the vertical pieces are the same height and the top and bottom cuts are 90 degrees. You can rip a piece of 4 x 8 and have many of the cuts accomplished. I do suggest that you start with a project like this (LaScala). I made up orthogonal drawings (top view, side view, front view). Large graph paper in rolls is available from Clearprint. This is a very good process in that it forces you to account for linear dimensions and angles to be cut. There is no getting away from the fact that even a LaScala or Belle is a woodworking project requiring precise cuts. I used a few sawhorses and a circular saw, using a guide. I bought a Royobi circular saw with a precision cast adjustment allowing the blade to be leaned over at a precise angle. A table saw would, naturally, be a better choice. Let me suggest that if you do aim for a LaScala, you don't try to recreate that very sharp angle in the front of the doghouse. It is difficult to cut wood at that angle. Rather, use a plate at the front, like in the Belle. In the LaScala it would be about 2 inches wide. Also, you'll see that the "ramps" at the back, require a angle difficult to cut. This is where the ramps intersect the top and bottom plates. I didn't attempt that either. Rather, I terminated the ramps (my term) with a piece of half round. Another piece that is a bear to make is that prism at the throat. You may be able to find a piece of hardwood of the right geometry. I couldn't and built it up out of plywood. It is not too bad a project. You'll probably want to make "reflectors" which go in the back corners. They, in my design, were made from ply cut to the same dimensions. So you'll be cutting ply to make up the reflectors and prism a the same time. Some of the above doesn't make total sense without drawings. I can sketch out things for you if you're serious. Still, let me suggest that you, yourself, make orthogonal drawings and take stock of your woodworking talents and tools. None of this is easy and planing ahead is necessary. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 I think that Gil, when referring to building LaScalas, meant "wings" instead of "ramps", and "splitter" instead of "prism". The wings have a 30 degree miter at one end(where the two halves are joined together for each of two wing assemblies), and a 60 degree miter at the other end(where they join the top or bottom panel of the bass bin). It is a relatively simple task to make a jig for a miter saw to cut the 60 degree miter...and of course, the 30 degree miter is already easy on a miter saw. Note that the angles given in the German plans for these parts are incorrect...the ones I just gave are correct! As for the splitter, it can be made on a table saw out of a clear, straight-grained piece of 2x4...pine, fir, hemlock, balsam(NOT balsa!!)...whatever. When cutting the "V" parts of the doghouse assembly, it is best to have a table saw and to make a jig for running plywood stock vertically on its edge in line with the fence, in order to accurately cut the miters, although it CAN be done without the jig...if necessary. Good woodworking skills, the right power tools, and a knowledge of making and using jigs are surely good things to have when attempting one of these speakers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 sorry double post...LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 OOPS...triple post!! LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 Damn!! a quadruple post!! Must be some kinda record!! LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted February 28, 2003 Share Posted February 28, 2003 I'm not disagreing with Mr. Builder at all. I make up my own terminology as I go along. It is those 60 degree angles which are difficult to cut. I made up some jigs to build the SL horns. ln later projects I modified the design to avoid anything over 45 degrees. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lena Posted March 4, 2003 Author Share Posted March 4, 2003 THANK'S guys for all the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsacco Posted March 10, 2003 Share Posted March 10, 2003 Does any one know where to obtain speaker box plans for the Cornwall? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar dave Posted March 11, 2003 Share Posted March 11, 2003 bsacco, you will find plans in the archives. just look under cornwall and go back about 9 pages or so, you'll find them. they used to be on page 9, but who knows where they are now. thats where i got my plans and they turned out real nice. stain red mohogany with 4 coats of clear gloss. bought one new bass driver and the rest off ebay. buy both bass drivers new from klipsch. i paid the same for a used driver as the new one $100. later dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted March 12, 2003 Share Posted March 12, 2003 It was not that easy to find. Look at the "Search the Klipsch Forums". Put in "Cornwall plan" Many thanks to Klipschguy for the info. He said as follows. (The copy and paste function has not always worked for me. This time it did.) Gil Internal measurements for 1977 Cornwalls type CWO. 1. internal width: 23 7/8" 2. internal length: 34 1/4" 3. internal depth: 13 1/2" 4. port: 9 1/2" x 22 3/8" x 3 1/8" 5. port holes in motorboard: 10 1/2" x 2 3/16" 6. motorboard inset: 5/8" 7. back: flush Notes: -cabinet depth from INSIDE of back to INSIDE of front -depth of port measured from BACK of motorboard -sides of port are two 3/4" plywood pieces = 9 1/2" -port + cabinet measurements are INTERNAL dimensions -port slots in motorboard has 7/8" wide middle divider -port slots also leave a 7/8" band along bottom edge -port slots not quite flush with top port edge 3/32" -all panels 3/4" (3/4" designated ply is actually less) -cabinet lined with 5/8" insulation, unknown material -all measurement done at least twice Hope this helps, Andy This message has been edited by Klipschguy on 08-22-2002 at 08:33 AM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 See attachment for page one of corrected dimensions for LaScala plans as reverse-engineered from a pair of 1977 models, using K-77 tweeter, K-400/K-55V midrange, and K-33 woofer, with AA network. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 See attachment for page two of reverse-engineered 1977 LaScala plans with correct dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Istari Posted March 16, 2003 Share Posted March 16, 2003 As usual Andy, you are "The Man" when it comes to accurate information. I see that Cornwall dimensions were mentioned above but do you have a set of plans for the Cornwall like you have for the La Scala? Would you mind posting them? The pair of Cornwalls I purchased from CORNWALLED appear to have had a rough life in a bar or some such place as the cabinets are in very rough shape. I would like to make new cabinets and would like to have "accurate" drawings to go from. I actually found a Mennonite lumber yard that carries void free plywood (it was 13 ply!!!)and will be buying the wood there. So if you'd be so kind as to post those, I sure wood appreciate it. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lena Posted March 26, 2003 Author Share Posted March 26, 2003 Sweet diagrams for LaScala - Thanks HDBRbuilder!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lubbie Posted March 26, 2003 Share Posted March 26, 2003 Look for baltic birch.. Its cabinet grade and easily available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted March 27, 2003 Share Posted March 27, 2003 Through my surfing, I have collected 6 images (plans) for what is supposed to be a Klipschorn (or equivalent) but I can't guaranty their accuracy, as I dont have one to compare with. I thought Id post them anyways... maybe theyll be of use to someone... and if anyone knows, please post if they are accurate? HDBRbuilder, I noticed that the plans you posted are the same as a set I have, but in what appears to be German ... do you know about these and their history? It just seems odd, even the panel numbers are the same... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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