Custom-built Lascalas

[delta5]

Hello,

I have noticed that some people are building their own Lascalas. Can anyone tell me where to get good plans? Also,

will Klipsch sell you the parts you need for inside the cabinets? I feel a summer headache, err project coming on...

[HDBRbuilder]

You can get plans for the LaScala from the internet...but they are not "GOOD" plans...and in order to build them to factory specs AND to ensure the parts fit, you have to modify the dimensions given for some of the cuts of the parts. You can get SOME of the parts for LaScalas from Klipsch, but it is cost-prohibitive...Your best bet it to find a pair with good parts in them but with "beaten-to-death" cabinets...at a good price...to use for the parts!

For a free copy of German LaScala plans(that have METRIC dimensions, and some of the dimensions given are INCORRECT), go to:

http://baseportal.de/baseportal?htx=/Data/exdreamaudio/bauplaene

When you get to that site, click on: "La Scala"

Then click on: "/hoerner/klipsch_la_scala_01.jpg" for the first page, and "/hoerner/klipsch_la_scala_02.jpg" for the second page.

Incorrect dimensions to specifically note are the angles given for the miters on the "wing" parts between figure #2 and figure #3 on page 2...correct angles are 60 and 30 degrees. Also the dimensions given for the height of the H/F section motorboard are incorrect...should be 10-3/4"...there are other incorrect dimensions too...especially in the hole sizes and locations on that motorboard. The woofer motorboard (figure 12) opening is 13" tall by 3" wide.

Your best bet is to take these plans and doctor them so that the dimensions are correct...by using an original LaScala to pull the correct dimensions from...other dimensions are also incorrect on these plans.

[BerndH]

On the same website you can find the plans of La Scala (Kopie Baßteil). Where Kopie Bassteil (Baß is even in German language not correct) means copy bass cabinet. This plan is a copy of the Klinger speaker building book. I build my La Scala Bassteil about 20 years ago with this plan and destroyed them 10 years ago. It is sure the most incorrect plan, because the dog house is totally different and the woofer should be a 12" woofer.

As attached file you find a zip file which contains three further zip files with different La Scala plans. One plan is the incorrect German plan which Andy spoke. But if the other two plans are correct i don't know. Check it out!

Bernd

LaScala.zip

[Marvel]

The LS1.zip file is not exactly correct. The access hole is shown as a 7inch on a side piece. Couldn't get the woofer out of that cabinet very well. I think this set was done by a friend of Tony Reed's (wherever he is now), who took measurements off a real set of LaScalas.

Middle set is the German ones in metric with previously stated errors. Looks like the same with the third set.

Marvel

[Tony Reed]

I don't know who drew these plans! I've seen them all before, but I don't know where they came from. Once upon a time... I "reversed" engineered a set of LaScalas myself and drew up the plans (correctly) for them, but these are not my drawings!

Tony

[BerndH]

I don't know the author too. I downloaded them anywhere and i haven't bookmarked the sites, because i found no reason to do this after downloading the files.

Bernd

[Marvel]

Tony,

I apologize for blaming you for those drawings (much bowing and groveling going on!!). When I got info from you I had also been scouring the net. I just found the link in an old folder of favorites, to the site that had them. The site is no longer around (http://www.electric.org/ls.html). But the story is pretty much the same, a friend had done the drawings for this guy, the more I recall, from some sketches and measurements.

Did you ever get to measure the freq. response with the added two pieces on yours (or did you do that). I do still have your drawings somewhere as well.

Others here may recall that djk made many sets of LS bass bins. He had jigs made to cut all the pieces accurately and quickly. I had the privilege of hearing some a few (too many) years ago. The hardest part is the roof of the doghouse (or part that points toward you).

Marvel

Marvel

[HDBRbuilder]

See the attachment for page one of the LaScala plans with the correct dimensions as built in 1977, using the K-77 tweeter, the K-400/K-55V midrange, and the K-33 woofer, with AA crossover network.

[HDBRbuilder]

Here is page two of those 1977 LaScala plans...I included some notes.

[Marvel]

Nice to see a set of real plans that I can add to my collection. Thanks for posting them.

Marvel

[HDBRbuilder]

Some of the "handy to have around" items when building LaScalas:

1. A jig for assembling-up the two doghouse roof panels so that the "point" edge is perfectly aligned, and the panels stay "in-square".

2. A jig for running plywood panels VERTICALLY on their edges and aligned with the tablesaw fence through a tablesaw. This is especially helpful for cutting the miters on the doghouse roof panels.

3. A jig that allows a part to be clamped

with its plywood edge down and remain perpendicular to the fence on a power mitersaw. This is especially helpful when cutting the 60 degree miter on the wing sections.

4. Router template jigs for the following parts:

A. H/F motorboard

B. woofer motorboard

C. woofer door panel

5. The following marking and nailing templates for marking "nail lines" or points to nail on the following parts, and for alignment of parts to be attached:

A. woofer motorboard templates(for nailing the wing assemblies to it) AND (for drilling the holes for the t-nuts used in securing the K-33 to it).

B. bass bin top and woofer door panel (for nailing these to the top and bottom of the doghouse assembly)

C. bass bin back (for marking and aligning the back to the wings on the motorboard) AND (for marking a "nail-line" for the assembly).

6. The following tools are nice to have, too:

A. Tablesaw (a good 10" one with a nice sharp 60-tooth minimum blade on it)

B. 1/2" router(with 3/8" diameter bottom-pilot routing bit)

C. power miter saw (10" blade minimum 60 tooth)

D. drill press and assortment of drill bits

E. air compressor

F. finish nail gun capable of 1-1/2" nails

G. staple gun capable of 1/4" X 1-1/8" coated staples.

H. NEW roofing square (or good old one!)

I. combination square

J. large T-square

K. large STIFF divider or compass for marking diameter for woofer on motorboard and marking the four holes for the t-nuts used to secure the woofer.

L. 16 oz. claw hammer and nail sets.

M. Most importantly: GOOD cabinet-making/woodworking skills!!

[Tom Mobley]

Andy,

Thanks for posting those plans. I worked off a set of the German Isophon plans with the incorrect dimensions for the HF motorboard when I rebuilt the DIY cabinets I got from that guy in Chicago. I ended up having to do some of it twice. Whatta PITA.

Tom

[kenratboy]

----------------

On 3/15/2003 9:44:52 AM HDBRbuilder wrote:

Some of the "handy to have around" items when building LaScalas:

1. A jig for assembling-up the two doghouse roof panels so that the "point" edge is perfectly aligned, and the panels stay "in-square".

2. A jig for running plywood panels VERTICALLY on their edges and aligned with the tablesaw fence through a tablesaw. This is especially helpful for cutting the miters on the doghouse roof panels.

3. A jig that allows a part to be clamped

with its plywood edge down and remain perpendicular to the fence on a power mitersaw. This is especially helpful when cutting the 60 degree miter on the wing sections.

4. Router template jigs for the following parts:

A. H/F motorboard

B. woofer motorboard

C. woofer door panel

5. The following marking and nailing templates for marking "nail lines" or points to nail on the following parts, and for alignment of parts to be attached:

A. woofer motorboard templates(for nailing the wing assemblies to it) AND (for drilling the holes for the t-nuts used in securing the K-33 to it).

B. bass bin top and woofer door panel (for nailing these to the top and bottom of the doghouse assembly)

C. bass bin back (for marking and aligning the back to the wings on the motorboard) AND (for marking a "nail-line" for the assembly).

6. The following tools are nice to have, too:

A. Tablesaw (a good 10" one with a nice sharp 60-tooth minimum blade on it)

B. 1/2" router(with 3/8" diameter bottom-pilot routing bit)

C. power miter saw (10" blade minimum 60 tooth)

D. drill press and assortment of drill bits

E. air compressor

F. finish nail gun capable of 1-1/2" nails

G. staple gun capable of 1/4" X 1-1/8" coated staples.

H. NEW roofing square (or good old one!)

I. combination square

J. large T-square

K. large STIFF divider or compass for marking diameter for woofer on motorboard and marking the four holes for the t-nuts used to secure the woofer.

L. 16 oz. claw hammer and nail sets.

M. Most importantly: GOOD cabinet-making/woodworking skills!!

----------------

In detail, using only text, descrice the ENTIRE process. Get crackin'

I bet Klipschorns are a ***** to make.

[HDBRbuilder]

OK, KRB,

First off...is there really a NEED to re-write what I wrote in its ENTIRETY when posting to me about it? I mean...it ain't like somebody can't just scroll up two posts and read it there, ALREADY! LOL!

As for your request...here goes:

1. Build your router forms and saw jigs and marking templates.

2. Cut out all the parts for the cabinets, ensuring you get accurate and square cuts...and ensuring you use the same saw-set-up when cutting different parts that have one common dimension to them.

3. Take the woofer motorboard and find the center of it, then using a compass or pair of dividers, scribe the OD(outside diameter) of the woofer onto the motorboard. Using a woofer as the template, mark four mounting points for the woofer onto the motorboard, and drill holes to accept 10-24 T-nuts. You will be using 10-24 machine screws to mount the woofers to it later on. Don't mount in the t-nuts YET! Rout out the throat slot on the motorboard FIRST, then drive the t-nuts into the holes you have drilled for them.

4. Assemble up the two doghouse roof panels, ensuring they are aligned PERFECTLY...and are square to each other...it helps to have a PERFECTLY flat surface when doing this. The factory uses glue AND finish nails, but I just use glue and a jig I built to keep the "toe" of the "point" tight while the glue sets-up. ensure there is a good continual glue squeeze-out and wipe up all excess on the OUTSIDE of the roof, but wipe the squeeze out on the INSIDE of the roof into the joint, then wipe up any excess.

5. Assemble-up the woofer motorboard to the two doghouse side panels, ensuring it is perfectly aligned and square...use glue and finish nails through the side panels into the motorboard edges for this. Ensure there is a good continual glue squeeze-out and wipe up any excess. ENSURE the t-nut flanges on the motorboard are on the proper side of this before assembling it!! Hint, hint!

6. While the glue on the previous assemblies sets-up, rout out the door panels and the H/F horn motorboard. Drill the pilot holes for mounting the horn lenses in the H/F motorboard. Drill the two holes in the bass bin top panel for the woofer-wiring-harness-connector there...and drill screw pilot holes for mounting up the network boards, and the K-400 horn lens rear support. Note: If you intend to build an INDUSTRIL WOOFER-POWRED Lascala, rout out a "p-trap" on the bass bin top panel(a small opening about 1" X 1/2" that relieves woofer pressure from inside the doghouse, and allows for more driver excursion)

7. Assemble up a pair of wing asemblies, gluing up the 30 degree miters, ensure they are perfectly aligned, and secure them in place together using light-weight staples into the ply edges of BOTH parts where the miter meets. Ensure there was a good glue squeeze-out and wipe up the excess. Set them aside for the glue to set up on them.

TAKE A LONG BREAK...GIVE SUB-ASSEMBLIES PLENTY OF TIME FOR THE GLUE TO SET-UP!

8. After all the sub-assemblies of the doghouse are set-up and ready, attach the two wing assemblies to the motorboard/doghouse side assembly, using glue and nailing through the motorboard into the edge-grain of the wing assemblies. Ensure there is a good glue squeeze-out when assembling this and wipe up the excess.

9. Take the doghouse roof assembly, glue it up, and...slightly bowing it inward, slip it into position with the motorboard/doghouse side/wing assembly. Get everything PERFECTLY aligned BEFORE the glue begins to set up...secure its alignment at the top and bottom with lightweight staples into the plys there where both assemblies join up, then use finish nails to secure the two assemblies to each other by driving the nails from the outside of the sides into the doghouse roof panels(at the appropriate "eyeballed" angle). Where the "toe" of the doghouse roof panels meets the doghouse side panels INSIDE the doghouse, use staples to secure it in place(this is important). Carefully set these completed doghouse assemblies aside after wiping up any excess glue squeeze-out, by ensuring there is plenty of this squeeze-out wiped INTO points where there was less of it on the INSIDE of the doghouses(this ensures no chance of later "leaks" from the doghouse sections). Be sure to wipe up ALL excess glue from the OUTSIDE of the doghouse assemblies, though!

TAKE A LONG BREAK...GIVE THE GLUE IN THE ASSEMBLY PLENTY OF TIME TO COMPLETELY SET-UP! THE HARD PART IS OVER NOW!!

10. Mark your center alignment and nailing lines on the appropriate sides of the woofer door panel and the bass bin top panel and the bass bin back panel.

11. Assemble the H/F motorboard to the bass bin top panel, using glue and finish nails nailed through the face of the H/F motorboard into front edge of the bass bin top panel...ensuring the juncutre of this butt-joint is perfectly even or just a "hair" proud along its entirety! Wipe up any excess glue squeeze out.

12. Assemble the woofer door panel to the bottom of the doghouse assembly using LOTS OF GLUE and finish nails. Ensure the parts are perfectly aligned on the aligmnent marks BEFORE nailing in place....and ensure the panel is centered left to right on the doghouse!! Don't forget to nail through the panel into the wing assembly ends at an angle!! Ensure there is a continual glue squeeze out on the inside and outside of the doghouse and wipe the excess glue up. Flip the assembly over so that the woofer door is on the bottom.

13. Assemble the bass bin top panel/H/F motorboard assembly to the top of the doghouse using the same techniques as used for the woofer door panel.

14. Pre-drill the back panel for self-starting wood screws(4) to secure the splitter piece to it. Glue up the splitter piece and using self-starting screws, screw it to the inside of the speaker back, then back the screws out so that it is LOOSE. Assemble the bass bin back panel to this nearly complete speaker now (while carefully ensuring the splitter falls BETWEEN the wing assembly "points"),using glue and finish nails. Ensure everything is aligned perfectly and is square. Be sure to not only nail through the back into the rear edges of the bass bin top and woofer door panels, but to ALSO nail into the wing assemblies' ply edges(that is what the mail line marks are for!!). Tighten up the screws for the splitter piece now. Wipe up the excess glue squeeze out.

15. Attach the speaker sides using glue and finish nails. Align the front topcorner edges of the sides with the top and front of the H/F motorboard, nail it in place along the side of the motorboard...then align the front bottom edge of the side to the front of he woofer door panel and nail along that panel edge...then nail along the nail line for the bass bin top panel edge...then nail the rear edge of the side to the speaker back panel...repeat for other side. Ensure there is a continual glue squeeze out, and wipe up the excess.

16. Glue up and nail (or screw) on the speaker top panel. Ensure there is a good glue squeeze out and wipe up the excess.

17. Measure the rear of the top of the speaker between the sides...just below the top panel. Cut a 2" wide X whatever that measurement was(should be around 22-1/4"!!). This is the rear speaker horizontal top brace...glue it up and slipt it into place and nail through the top and sides into it. Wipe up any glue excess.

18. Sand cabinet and apply finish of your choice.

19. Install woofer, install weatherstripping around inside edge of speaker bottom...screw on speaker bottom...install other speaker components...hook up to your sound system.

20. ENJOY!!!

I may have left out a few details, but any knowledgeable/experienced woodworker knows it is a helluva lot simpler to show you how to do something than it is to tell you!