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Rebuilt and ready to go 299A


NOSValves

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Well most don't advise solid hook up wire on circuit boards but I like it. It holds its form for routing nice and neatly. They think it will stress the PCB over time but I think it hog wash. The Dyacos are 40 years old and still working with solid core wire. I buy all mine locally and use 22 gage tinned copper. Almost all electronic supply places have some type of hookup wire. The signal path is so small on a Mark III it really doesn't need anything fancy to shield the wiring.

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For some reason this forum software doesn't work for me to post a url of another thread within the forum it never includes that last } within the link. Just copy and past it in your browser address bar and it will come up.

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Craig,

Cut and copied and it didn't work the first time, took a look at it and it included a { before it, erased it and it came right up. They are beautiful, showed my wife the pics and she loved them too. Is my understanding right that you did the mods and rebuild and he did the body work? I asked him where he got his cans but maybe you are the one to ask??

Got the MKII's gutted this morning except for the cans, gonna go to radio shack and get a solder sucker later and pick up some other essentials. I'm hyped, or is that the java talking? Randy

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Randy,

Your didn't Order the power supply cap board from Triode ?? This is the way for you to go you won't need new cans. This installs under the chassis . It cost like $50 for the kit and in the process beefs up the entire PS filtering . I did a custom job to Dales with a new can and adding extra Axials . It worked great but the Cap board will do the basic same thing and make it easy for you. Just polish up your old cans and leave them in there for looks. The can alone for Dale's was near $40 each and you still have to add more under chassis.

Craig

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Craig,

Just checked triode and they are $50 apiece. Not bad but will have to wait a while for the wife factor. It will take a little while to get the chrome done I guess. Do they leave room under there to get around? Seems a little tight in spots to solder now. Do you mean that everything in the kit fits under the unot and you can't see it at all? Sorry to pester you,Randy

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Randy,

The PS is the most improtant part of this upgrade it has to be replaced period mark no matter what if Triode hasn't shipped your order yet I would just call him and add to the order tomorrow. No sense having to pay another shipping charge.

Craig

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I'm rebuilding the Mark III, have Craigs guidance on this one. So far I installed the power supply by SDS. Before and after the install, I'm having an issue of trying to keep bias stable. I will install the front end boards today and see if theres any change.

Tom

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Hey Craig,

I'll order the ps next week, can't swing it this week. The shipping isn't all that much. Not seeing a picture of the two boards and their parts how much of the stock components (resistors and caps) are left? Thanks,

RAndy

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Hey Craig,

Received the boards from triode today,hopefully will get started putting the components in this weekend.Did some work on the bases at work,still looking for a chrome establishment.Will order the PS stuff in a week or so.

Would you be interested in rebuilding my preamp?The C-20 mac?And if so any idea of the $?(I know,it depends).Randy

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Hi Craig,

Just got done stuffing the triode boards. Not too bad of a job, been awhile tho. Had to run up to cvs to get some heavy duty reading glasses so I could see the color code on the resistors. The eyes aren't what they used to be.

Craig, on resistor 7 they spec'd out a 1.5K but the closest supplied was a 1.0K. In the notes they do state that the value may be modified but is this alright and or normal?

Having spent the day sniffing solder I believe I'll go to triode and order up the power supply you reccomended and some new female rca's. This is turning out pretty nice so far.

Did you find new switches for the amps you rebuilt or use the originals? Also when you installed the dual bias parts where did you locate them? Did you keep the imput jack in the same spot?

Do you recommend any other changes while they're apart? Thinking about going to 6550's instead of the 34's. Making them MKIII's.

Sorry about all the questions NOS, you've been a big help already, Randy

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Sounds like Ned slipped you the wrong value or your reading the value wrong. I never even use the bands. I just hook them up to my Multimeter and match them anyway ! I would use the recomended 1.5K resistor if I was you.

The switches were still in fine shape on the last pair I did. But switches can be sourced if you need them. I believe Ned may even have some. If not www.tubesandmore.com will.

Shoot me a email I have some files to email you that pertain to using 6550/KT-88's in your amps.

Craigostby@comcast.net

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