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What is difference between outside-safe speakers and our nice home theater (not outside) speakers?


lancestorm

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What makes the all-weather speakers so safe from the rain and outside weather, and our home theater speakers so not-safe? Is it the way the speaker box is designed and thus keeps the rain out? Are the wires tucked differently? Are the components different? Just a question that popped into my head the other day...

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there are two types of outdoor speakers....

1. "weather resistant" - these speakers are designed to be mounted under an eave or anyplace that will not get rained on directly.....

2. "weather proof" - these speakers can take direct exposure to the elements - some of these speakers can actually be immersed in water and still work.....

both of these types of speakers use polyprolene or metal cones with rubber surrounds.... the enclosures are usually sealed against the elements...

near speakers distributed by bogen are "water-proof" and will run under water with no damage......

http://www.bogen.com/speakers.htm#NEAR

http://www.nearspeakers.com/

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On 3/8/2004 9:07:15 AM minn_male42 wrote:

there are two types of outdoor speakers....

1. "weather resistant" - these speakers are designed to be mounted under an eave or anyplace that will not get rained on directly.....

2. "weather proof" - these speakers can take direct exposure to the elements - some of these speakers can actually be immersed in water and still work.....

both of these types of speakers use polyprolene or metal cones with rubber surrounds.... the enclosures are usually sealed against the elements...

near speakers distributed by bogen are "water-proof" and will run under water with no damage......

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how good do these outdoor speakers sound? I've never heard them and I was curious about this--it sounds like you've got some experience in this arena...

how would outdoor speakers compare to a good set of like, MB quart MARINE speakers, or other brand Marine grade speakers--I know its different power and such, but if someone was interested in good outdoor sound would the extra effort be worth it?

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the near speakers sound pretty good.... they have a very similar sound to the smaller jbl professional speakers....

i sold them for over two years....

i think that they would play louder and with a cleaner sound than any of the marine speakers that i have auditioned over the years....

http://www.nearspeakers.com/aprods.html

A8BLK(L).jpg

if you look at the A-8 model you can see that it has pretty impressive specs and can handle up to 175 watts continous at 8 ohms.... i think that the retail price is about $200 each.....

cheers!

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Also the exposed metal that makes up the magnetic cicuit gets special coatings. Imagine that nice machined back plate / t yoke and pole piece turning into a nice big brown furry piece of rust. The condensation from heating / cooling cycles will cause rust to form unless treated. Also the cone and surround and suspension are treated to reduce or eliminate the effects of uv, moisture and environmental contaminents.

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On 3/9/2004 12:28:47 AM michael hurd wrote:

Also the exposed metal that makes up the magnetic cicuit gets special coatings. Imagine that nice machined back plate / t yoke and pole piece turning into a nice big brown furry piece of rust. The condensation from heating / cooling cycles will cause rust to form unless treated. Also the cone and surround and suspension are treated to reduce or eliminate the effects of uv, moisture and environmental contaminents.
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actually, the "exposed metal" aspect is very easy to address..... simply use stainless steel or painted products with good paint coatings....

your car isn't "special"... and yet it can handle the elements....

all of the near speakers listed above use aluminum speaker cones that are weather-proof.....

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Yes, good coatings are the way to go for the cabinet and the cabinet hardware. What I was more specifically refering to was the metal that forms the pole piece inside the magnet, the backplate on the magnet and the front plate. My car certainly isn't special, as it is pretty rusty for sure. But one thing that I do know quite a bit about is coatings and corrosion protection, as I am an autobody apprentice. And unprotected bare steel will rust very handily without any protection like zinc or cadmium plating, or a paint finish.

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Really cool...

NEAR Speaker's Patented "MLS"

MLS-montage.jpg

NEAR-patented Magnetic Liquid Suspension (MLS) is a superior method for guiding a speaker's voice coil assembly through the magnetic field. MLS eliminates the traditional mechanical "spider" and replaces it with a thick magnetic fluid that stays permanently suspended in the gap of the magnet, allowing the voice coil to remain centered and to operate with superior linearity. In fact, the louder it plays, the more accurate the centering forces become. The results are lower distortion, greater linearity, more consistent long-term performance, and longer cone excursions (allowing use of smaller diameter woofers without sacrificing bass extension). In addition, the fluid is a more efficient heat sink for the voice coil, preventing heat-related impedance shifts that roughen frequency response.

Summary of MLS Benefits

Voice coil is constantly centered as it moves up and down, for lower distortion

Voice coil is heat-sinked by fluid instead of air, preventing heat-related impedance shifts

High linearity is accomplished because the mechanical spider is eliminated

Constant lubrication of the gap prevents oxidation, even in outdoor uses

Long-term operation is more consistent since fluid doesn't change characteristics

Longer excursions are possible using smaller diameter woofers, without sacrificing bass extension

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The last time I heard music coming from the rocks was during a wonderful summer evening in 1974 (or in one of those 'missing years'). If I remember correctly (which has to be darn near impossible) it was Jimmy Hendrix playing 'Purple Haze' and I was astounded and wondered how the rock knew....

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On 3/9/2004 1:06:20 PM minn_male42 wrote:

use a long wire.....

i would suggest sj cable (black, rubber-jacketed, oil and sunlight/uv resistant)....

you can get it in 10, 12, 14, 16, or 18 gauge....

1.gif

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Aw, come on. Just use plain old RG6, right? It's weather resistant! Hell, they bury it straight in the ground when someone needs their dish planted in the yard! 3.gif

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On 3/9/2004 5:12:39 PM Griffinator wrote:

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On 3/9/2004 1:06:20 PM minn_male42 wrote:

use a long wire.....

i would suggest sj cable (black, rubber-jacketed, oil and sunlight/uv resistant)....

you can get it in 10, 12, 14, 16, or 18 gauge....

1.gif

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Aw, come on. Just use plain old RG6, right? It's weather resistant! Hell, they bury it straight in the ground when someone needs their dish planted in the yard!
3.gif

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i kinda figured that you are joking about the RG6..... not at all suitable for speaker cable......

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On 3/9/2004 7:55:27 PM minn_male42 wrote:

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On 3/9/2004 5:12:39 PM Griffinator wrote:

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On 3/9/2004 1:06:20 PM minn_male42 wrote:

use a long wire.....

i would suggest sj cable (black, rubber-jacketed, oil and sunlight/uv resistant)....

you can get it in 10, 12, 14, 16, or 18 gauge....

"<a
http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/images/smilies/1.gif">

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Aw, come on. Just use plain old RG6, right? It's weather resistant! Hell, they bury it straight in the ground when someone needs their dish planted in the yard!
"<a
http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/images/smilies/3.gif">
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i kinda figured that you are joking about the RG6..... not at all suitable for speaker cable......

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yeah, but in a pinch you CAN use the center conductor for one conductor and the braided shield for another (+/-)...really!!

avman.

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