bmartin Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 Just moved to a new house and after reconnecting everything I realized that the midrange horn on one of my chorus II's is not woring. I believe I've had problems with this horn coming in and out in the past (not sure if it was this speaker) but this time it's out. What I've done: I took off the passive radiator on the back and checked the wire connections to the horn - all is good - I even removed them and reattached. I also checked the cross-over for anything obvous but didn't find anything. What should I do next? Take in for service? Is there a way to determine if its the horn or cross-over? Any help or advise would be appreciated. Thanks Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W. Bailey Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 You can try swaping the mid range driver from the "good" speaker to verify, but it sounds like you may need to replace the diaphragm. If you call Klipsch Parts Dept @ 1-800-554-7724 option 3, they should be able to give you price and availabilty for a diaphragm kit that will work on the K-61-K/K-53-K mid-range driver...should be under $40 or so. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radiob Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 I have a spare crossover and a new mid diaphram, if your interested PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 Well, yeah you could swap the things. A better approach is to buy a multimeter at Radio Shack. Some are quite low priced. It is a necessary tool for any semi serious work. It is not too hard to learn to use. What you do is set the meter to test continuity. This is a setting on the meter where, when you touch the leads together, a tone will sound from the meter. You'll have to open up the box again and disconnect one lead from the horn driver. Then touch the meter leads across the input terminals to the driver. If it is good, you'll get a tone. If bad, no tone. That might not be quite difinitive, but almost always is. To double check, set the meter to the lowest resistance scale. A good driver will test somewhere between 5 and 20 Ohms resistance. A bad one will be infinite or very much higher than 20.. Replacing the diaphragm assembly will require you to unbolt the horn and bring it to a work surface. Replacing the diaphragm assembly will require just undoing three or four small nuts. The latter is based on my experience with tweeters in Quartets. As mentioned by others, diaphragm kits are about $20 bucks. You should consider picking up a spare mid and tweeter diaphragm in that shipping is about $20 and the investment may be worthwhile. You're a bit far from Chicago or I'd give a hand in person. If you're really stumped maybe we can get together. Is there Amtrak to Madison? Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerohm Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 ---------------- On 8/3/2004 7:46:05 PM William F. Gil McDermott wrote: ... Replacing the diaphragm assembly will require you to unbolt the horn and bring it to a work surface. Replacing the diaphragm assembly will require just undoing three or four small nuts. The latter is based on my experience with tweeters in Quartets. ... Gil ---------------- RE: My dilema Tip: Changing the diaphragm on the K-61-K is basically identical EXCEPT instead of bolts, there are 4 Phillips head screws that can be rather difficult to remove (i.e. apply torque to) due to their location and the horn lens. I ended up using one of those dual head screwdriver bits from a power screwdriver. It was short enough that I could position it and used a small block of wood to apply a downward force. I was then able to use a wrench on the hex shaft to apply the torque . The screws came right out with no damage to the heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike stehr Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 I had a Chorus II with a non-working midhorn. After swapping and determining the midhorn was OK, I looked over the PCB board. It had a cracked trace in the midhorn circuit. The speaker I had may have been dropped, cracking the trace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmartin Posted August 10, 2004 Author Share Posted August 10, 2004 Thanks for the advise. I swapped out the bad midrange with the good and it worked fine so it must be the diaphram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerohm Posted August 10, 2004 Share Posted August 10, 2004 If you're a brave sole, please refer to my post above. Diaphragms really shouldn't just stop working and if you need to replace it, you have to open it up anyway. If it is that nice copper color, I would attempt my soldering iron procedure - nothing to lose, right? DON'T touch any of the plastics or remain in the same location too long - they melt easily (i.e., when touching the voice coil connections). Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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