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Interconnects question


bacevedo

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I have a question on the different brands of audio interconnects.

I currently have Radio Shack Gold interconnects, and I think the performance is fine. However, the connectors themselves are really hard to deal with. They are so tight, that I feel like I am going to break something everytime I plug them in or pull them out.

So, I was going to buy some new ones (audio only, the s-video connections are fine). I have a credit at Crutchfield, so I was looking there. All they carry is Monster for their home audio line, and it isn't cheap.

However, I was looking at their Car audio interconnects, and they have Streetwires Musica interconnects, and Rockford Fosgate interconnects (which feature twisted pair technology), that look as good as the Monster cables, for half the price.

Now my question is this - Is there any reason that I shouldn't use Car Audio interconnects as opposed to home audio interconnects? To me, there shouldn't be a problem, and car audio interconnects are probably shielded better than their home counterparts because of the noise a car engine can emit.

I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't anything different between the two types that could cause a problem in a home environment.

Thanks!

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Thanks,

Bryan

"... But Honey - I promise this is the last thing I will have to buy for the Home Theater"

Mistubishi 60" RPTV (VS60603)

Denon AVR 3801 RCVR

Denon DVM 1800 DVD

JVC 3600U SVHS VCR

RCA DirecTV

Klipsch RB5 - L&R

Klipsch RC3 - Center

Klipsch RCW3 - In-wall surrounds

Klipsch KSW12 - Sub

Monster Power Conditioner

Radio Shack Gold Series Interconnects

Radio Shack 12 AWG Mega Cable

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bac, i wouldn't think there's much dif there. now that's a good reason to get new interconnects. Biggrin.gif

i use a few sets of rat shack gold audio coax & yea same tightness thing. i don't move 'em once they're on 2 much though.

wonder if some KY would help? might get the plug in the mood but would it prevent std (sound transmission disfunction)? Wink.gif

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I guess it wouldn't hurt to try some KY!cwm30.gif But it could be kind of messy!

I am still trying to decide if I want new ones or not. I have $50 credit at Crutchfield from referring two friends there. There isn't anything else that I need from crutchfield. Now if they sold Denon or Klipsch gear, then that might change!cwm20.gif

I am thinking, too, that I don't move the cables around that much, but they have already screwed up my sat receiver - the connectors on the back are loose now, and I have to wiggle them to get sound. But it is just a cheapy RCA receiver, and will be replaced eventually, so I am not too worried about it.

But I am getting a new 3802 (to replace my 3801), and figured I might as well change the cables, too.

Thanks for the reply!

Bryan

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I posted a tale about a similar problem.

My brother-in-law had bought some new interconnects. The sleave on the RCA connector was so tight that it was difficult to get it plugged in. Further, pulling it out was, I think, challenging the physical integrity of the connection on the amp.

Ray G. reported a similar problem.

If you get new interconnects, there may be no way of telling whether they'll have the same problem.

If I have to fool with the system again, I'm going to widen the sleave with a pair of pliers.

It is frightening to think that the expensive interconnects can physically damage the equipment they're attached to.

Gil

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OK - now I need some more help.

What is everyone's experience with regular cable vs Monster cable. I have a credit at Crutchfield, and am thinking about buying either Monster S-Video cables, or the Monster Sub300 cable. Does anyone have experience with these cables?

I have never used Monster before (except for my digital interconnect), and I don't know if it will make a difference in my system. If I get their Video 2 series cables, will these improve on my Radio Shack Gold series cables?

What about the sub cable - is it really worth it? I remember reading somewhere that TV actually uses just plain Video cable for the better shielding. Is the Monster Sub cable just a scam - can it really make my sub sound better than the Radio Shack Gold cable I have on it, or any other shielded cable?

I would really like to hear some opinions from people who have actually tried the Monster cables, and if they noticed a difference or not from a decent quality Radio Shack cable.

'Cause if not, then I will use the credit for something else and just stick with the Radio Shack cables that I have.

Thanks,

Bryan

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Interconnects:

I have tried various brands of cables - generic patch cords that come with equipment; slightly better patch cords that come with some brands (Yamaha better equip comes with OFC Copper gold plated patch cords); Radio Shack "Gold" series; various Monster series of various vintages; MIT (mostly cheaper stuff); Audioquest (Topaz and Quartz); Apature; Vampire. My conclusion is that they all sound different. Not a lot different, not night and day different, but different. MIT vs Monster Interlink 850 between Musical Fidelity X10-D buffer and amplifier, for example: MIT had slightly more "realistic" (? Smash.gif) vocals, but Monster had more bass impact and dynamics - very subtle difference, but noticeable on extended listening. So, whether different means "better" depends upon the system in which they are installed. Best solution, if available plastic credit will support it, is buy a bunch of 'em from a dealer who will let you do in home demos, listen to 'em all, then return everything except the one you keep.

S-Video cable:

Have tried several "high end" S-Video cables. EVERY SINGLE DAMN ONE OF THEM WAS SO HEAVY THE DINKY LITTLE DIN CONNECTOR KEPT FALLING OUT OF THE TEEVEE SET!!! cwm23.gif Finally had to duct tape the stupid cables to the back of the TEEVEE to keep the cable in place. Verdict: in runs of less than ten feet or so, I've never seen ANY difference between ANY cables. Long runs, the better cables showed less signal deterioration (mostly in signal to noise levels and edge sharpness) than the generic S-Video included with the DVD player.

Subwoofer cables:

I use an REL Storm which comes with its own Neutrik connector and hard wired silver cables, so your mileage may vary... I tried making up my own subwoofer cable using "better" wire than that which REL provided (their wire is, like, 22 gauge or something, unshielded, untwisted, looks chintzy). I tried using Kimber PBJ, AudioQuest PSC-4, Tara Labs (some old stuff my dealer had found lying around somewhere, the original white jacketed twisted pair kind)... end result, REL's cable sounded better than everything else I tried; more bass impact, better tone. No idea why. I was surprized, had thought it unlikely that cable would make much of a difference on sub. Others on this board had sung praises of Monster's subwoofer cable...

------------------

Music is art

Audio is engineering

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Thanks! That is exactly what I was looking for. I only have 3 feet between my components for S-Video, and one 6 foot S-Video cable to the TV. I didn' want to spend >$100 on S-Video cable if it wasn't going to make a difference. I do understand that on longer runs it can make a difference, or if you have a noisy environment. But I don't have any noise, and the picture looks good to me.

The sub cable sounds like it might be worth a try - with my credit it is basically free - so I don't have a lot to lose.

The interconnects - that could be a change, but the only real audio (analog) interconnect that I would be worried about is from my Satellite receiver to my AVR. I don't think that the quality of TV programming audio is of high enough quality that I should worry about upgrading my interconnects for this. I use the digital cable from my DVD player to receiver (this is a Monster cable), so I don't need a high quality analog interconnect there as I never use that. The only time I need analog for this is if I want to listen to zone 2, and that is for my patio and other house speakers - basically background music on little speakers. It would be silly to buy "high-end" cable for this use.

I do have analog interconnects between my VCR and AVR, but I barely ever use my VCR. And when I do, it is for watching recorded TV shows (Tivo would be nice!). Again, don't need highest quality there, as the source sucks to begin with.

So I may just get that sub cable, unless others here tell me otherwise.

Thanks again,

Bryan

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hey ray were those double blind tests on those interconnects? cwm11.gif wish i could find someone to help me do it. i agree on the subtle differences, but wonder if it'd be audible for me then.

bac, i have some monster. pretty good quality though i'd say they're a lil like the bose of speaker cable ie

somewhat overpriced but hey they've got that brand recog. now.

the monsterbass400 sub cable works fine. monster even sent me a free Y-adapter plug. then it's rca plug pin broke off in the sub line jack. guess no such thing as

a free lunch. so make sure u pull those plugs straight out while gently twisting Biggrin.gif

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Klipsch KLF 30 (front), KLF C7, Cornwall I (rear)

Velodyne HGS-18 sub woofer

Monsterbass 400 sub interconnect & Monster CX-2 biwire & Z1 cable

Marantz SR-8000 receiver

Sony DVP-C650D 5-disk cd/dvd player

Sony Trinitron 27" stereo tv

Toshiba hi-fi stereo vcr

Technics dual cassette deck

Scientific Atlanta Explorer 2000 digital cable box

Boa's Listenin Lounge:

Klipsch RF-3 (front), RC-3

Monster MCX Biwires

Sony STR-DE935 a/v receiver

Kenwood KR-9600 AM/FM stereo receiver (vintage 1975)

Russound AB-2 receiver switch to RF-3

Teac PD-D1200 5-disk cd changer

Technics SL-1950 turntable/AT LS500 cartridge

rock on!

This message has been edited by boa12 on 08-01-2001 at 12:22 PM

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So Boa - would you say that the Monster Sub cable made the sub sound better? I already have a pretty good quality cable on the sub - just wondering if the sound will improve at all by using the Monster instead. Something just tells me that it shouldn't make a difference, and if it does, then they must have something in them that is changing the sound (like a resistor or something), because a cable shouldn't change the sound. If I had a really bad cable, with no sheilding and very thin wire, then I could see ANY decent cable making a difference. But I just don't see how a cable could improve from there.

Bryan

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bac it is a 12ft. run & i did use one of their interlink cables before. velo sounded good w/ both though thought i got a lil more bass from the 400, though doubt I could tell in a blind test. so in sum i wouldn't sweat the sub cable if your rat shack gold sounds good. think tv & nousaine are right on there.

how 'bout biwires? have those? those may give u a positive audible dif. u could get monster premade biwire for the rc-3 & rb. got mine for the rf-3 at www.jandr.com . don't know if crutch has though/

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For what it is worth here is a site with some double blind testing. http://oeonline.com/~djcarlst/abx_wire.htm

They show no difference but as always your ears should be the judge.

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HT -

RF-3's

RC-3

RS-3's (white)

Advent Powered Sub

Harman Kardon AVR 510

PC -

ProMedia 4.1

Bedroom -

KG4's

Harman Kardon AVR 20 MKII

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FTIW, I have been using Audioquest Coral audio interconnects between components in my system and running the AQ Sidewinder cable to my sub. I have been very pleased with all cables, and while it was somewhat expensive, it was not as bad as it could have been (also bought new speaker cables.)

I wanted to do a before/after test with interconnects as well as the speaker cables, but with my current HT cabinet, it's nearly impossible to make easy switches, and if you get too frustrated swapping cables, you forget what you are listening for. So, when I get a new rack for the components, I'll play around as I kept all the old speaker wire. I did notice better output from my entire system, but I can't attribute it to interconnects/wires exclusively, since I upgraded from a ProLogic receiver to a DD/DTS receiver. But I am a happy guy...the wife just thinks I'm a bit nuts, but we each have our "vices," and we get along fine that way

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