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Let's talk $2500 DIY


killerbee_vr6

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What kind of complete sub would you build for $2500? By complete I mean amp, drivers, box and EQ/crossover. Size is not a concern. I'm looking for bass to 25hz that can match the 115-120db peaks I can get at my seat from the Chorus IIs. Obviously the far-too-overused "speed" is important, I don't want a one-note wonder. I'm currently looking at using 4 Stryke AV15s in a 10 cubic foot sealed box with a QSC RMX2450 (2400wpc 4ohm bridged) and the Rane PE-17 parametric EQ. With room gain it should do the task. Thoughts?

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Well... perhaps you might want to wait a little while and turn that $2500 into $4000. Then get in touch with Adire Audio about them building you a setup using their Parthenon motor. It'll do 20Hz at 121dB while sitting in the middle of your room- no baffle/box needed! Check it out on their site... very impressive.

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Not everyone has the same needs.... so my preferences may not satisfy yours. My next sub project will probably be an IB if I can find a place to integrate it.

- Given you'll have some budget left over with those items... you may want to consider one of QSC's or Crown's fanless studio amps, as the RMX series are kinda noisy. You can replace the RMX fan (and void the warranty) but perhaps starting with a quieter amp in the first place may be a good idea.

- Have the specs on the latest AV15 changed that much? From my quick calculations that 10ft3 box would be a little to small. If size isn't an issue, why would you use a box with a Qtc of > 8 which trades some bass extension for the undersized box? A 20ft3 box would drop the Qtc to below 7 which is preferable if you are searching for sound quality.

- You may want to look into the Blueprint 1803 drivers (which are backordered like the AV15 I think) which will give you slightly more SPL with only two drivers in a smaller box... but unfortunately roll off earlier.

- Building a ported sub would increase the low frequency response substantially for either combo.

Later...

Rob

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BTW 007

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On 10/22/2004 12:16:26 AM 007 wrote:

Jay, this is off topic, but with you, what else is new?

I just bothered to read you sig, and I’m wondering how you run your dd-5.1 decoder and 5.1 PMU’s from a sound card that only does 4 channel digital out?

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On 10/21/2004 11:01:38 PM Jay481985 wrote:

im working on something, But since we don't want to offend anyone, pm me

Edit: You have a PM

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You dumbass, I said PM me and If you can read, I responded to the post made by TPG.

Oh BTW again, digital out means that its encoded for digital out. And it is up to the decoder (The DD5.1 to decode the signal to the speakers) God, you try and be slick about everything. It works just fine and I get a center signal just fine if not overly agressive. But you would know, wait nope you don't have a DD5.1 now STFU.

Read my sig again *****

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On 10/22/2004 1:20:34 AM formica wrote:

Not everyone has the same needs.... so my preferences may not satisfy yours. My next sub project will probably be an IB if I can find a place to integrate it.

- Given you'll have some budget left over with those items... you may want to consider one of QSC's or Crown's fanless studio amps, as the RMX series are kinda noisy. You can replace the RMX fan (and void the warranty) but perhaps starting with a quieter amp in the first place may be a good idea.

- Have the specs on the latest AV15 changed that much? From my quick calculations that 10ft3 box would be a little to small. If size isn't an issue, why would you use a box with a Qtc of > 8 which trades some bass extension for the undersized box? A 20ft3 box would drop the Qtc to below 7 which is preferable if you are searching for sound quality.

- You may want to look into the Blueprint 1803 drivers (which are backordered like the AV15 I think) which will give you slightly more SPL with only two drivers in a smaller box... but unfortunately roll off earlier.

- Building a ported sub would increase the low frequency response substantially for either combo.

Later...

Rob

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I wish I can make a IB formica but I think I am going to move in a few years so damn. On the QSC amps are they that noise since I will most likely buy the mother load 5050. I don't believe the AV-15 changed too much and I bet that he was just making the box size up. A 20ft3 box omg omg omg that huge that is actually 4 times the size of my dual tumult design i wanted. And with the Blueprint 1803 driver, I believe as it pertained to acoustic visions website that once they are gone they have no more parts, Under that statement I assume that the 1803 are not going to be made anymore. And I believe trying to port the Blueprint 1803 is a feat of engineering as the tube will be increadible long.

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I spoke with the guy from Acoustic Visions for about 20 minute or so when I bought my 1503. He said that he was running an 1803 sealed in his room, and it was more than enough sub for anyone, probably. I really wish he would have had one... I wanted the 1803 SOOOO badly... 8.gif15.gif

Anyway, from the way he talked, I wouldn't expect to see any 1803's appearing any time soon, though I could be wrong. He said that they were out and 18" baskets were extremely hard to come by. The 1503 is still quite a beast, though. I am running it in a very sub-optimal (no pun intended) enclosure, tuned to the wrong frequency, and it still bests both of my other subs (DPL12 and KSW-12) combined in both SPL and extension. According to WinISD, the current enclosure it is in is somewhere at -6dB or more at 20Hz. It is still EBS, but is not very well optimized at all. I guess I could cut a few inches off the port to tune it better... but I am kind of lazy like that. 3.gif

Anyway, IB is the way to go, I'd say, if you can fit it into the room somehow. I'll admit that the Parthenon motor does need some power, but you shouldn't have to buy a $10000 amp to power it. You could get by with any $1500-$2000 amp, probably, and have great results. For both looks and performance, the Parthenon would be pretty good. Not to mention one heck of a conversation starter... 11.gif Also on power... I'd look into Class-D/Class-T/other digital amps for the sub power. They offer large amounts of power and much lower current draw/heat. It is possible to get a 1000Wrms (4-ohm) amp running for $100 or so if you build it yourself. Heatsinking is at a bare minimum, too. I will be doing this sometime, as the dual 20A channels in my sub amp are killing my house's electricity...

Just a thought, though. I hope to go that way someday when I get a better listening room.

OOH! How about this... get in touch with Adire Audio and have them do a custom run of speakers made with YOUR specs. Their minimum order is 12 units... put them all in an IB like the "12 Shiva's Dancing" and be satisfied for the rest of your life. 1.gif It'll cost you about $2500, probably.

BTW- I must wonder... why the rivalry between Jay and 007? We here at the Klipsch forums are a family... can't we all just get along? 3.gif2.gif14.gif

EDIT: Yes... I went overboard on the smilies. I think it's time to go take a nap...

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On 10/21/2004 11:36:40 PM tpg wrote:

Well... perhaps you might want to wait a little while and turn that $2500 into $4000. Then get in touch with Adire Audio about them building you a setup using their Parthenon motor. It'll do 20Hz at 121dB while sitting in the middle of your room- no baffle/box needed! Check it out on their site... very impressive.

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LOL

Why not,have a hydraulic piston moving 12" in and 12" out with a fixed 4m*4m sheet of space age material.Cooling the room in the summer

This Pathenon "woofer" is a very expensive fan.Would look dumb in any setup,being exposed.Unless its hidden out of view,this unit is viable in custom build HT systems with a space built for the unit and its piston.

Having a huge powerful motor powering a sheet of stiff material flopping in the middle of the room would look freakish and would seriously hurt an orange crab! Even sending this orange crab to the ER!

3.gif6.gif

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