Marvel Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 If you are building these from scratch, I would go ahead and do DJK's bass mod. Have the hole cut in the top of the doghouse and close in the back and add ports. It would be almost no work to do it while building from the ground up. This may confuse you more though. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooteedee Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 I'm always depressed aftr DJK's comments. Nothing worse that having a Qts that's too high. DJK: What about the making the motorbord opening larger as D-Man suggests? Marvel: Huh? Close in the back? Ports? Please explain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Build the things, dammit! Then worry about what your gonna put in them... If you put it off until you have good drivers, you don't have anything, do you? And then you'll be in a hurry to build them, and screw it up! Starting out with crappy drivers makes it all the better when you finally get some "good" ones! BTW, new K33E's only cost $130 ea. That price is very hard to beat for the performance. Also, like I said, my corner horns have the large opening. They work extremely well, and I can experiment and/or use with other drivers for higher wattage capability, such as with HT. There are no drawbacks to this, but you can only effectively do it if you are building them, not modify them later unless you come up with a different mounting system. So decide BEFORE you start. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooteedee Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 I will I will! The boards are all marked up and ready to cut in the barn....I just want to be sure about the motorboard opening. I will make it 6x13. It sucks knowing that my drivers blow. But what the hell? They're only 20 bucks for both. And I wasn't planning on building mighty Klipsch's at the time. I was just going to build a box. Onward and upward. I might buy some better mid drivers. How about these. Cheap... but the freak response is closer. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-474 And how about this driver? still cheap....but ..maybe better. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-177 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Double-check the prospective motor board size with a full-size drawing. This will prevent suprizes, like when you try to put in the woofer (or take it out). Believe me, taking the time to do a full-size drawing FIRST is worth its weight in gold! I am not sure that a 15" square motor board actually fits and is removable in the doghouse being that the baffle is only 15-1/4" wide, so check it first! It may require some "adjusting", but it SHOULD be do-able... I don't want to get blamed for that recommendation, being that I was considering a Belle, and not the LS! DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooteedee Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 Once the motorboard goes in.....replacing it will be very, very difficult. I could... with some fastener trickery... make the back side removable. (still making it airtight of course) But I would nead a lot of trickery. I'll just be happy with a 6x13 opening. I have already drawn the plans on the wood for the woofer door and the motorboard. It is a tight fit though the door with the woofer but it's do-able. I've moved pianos into rooms with tighter dimensions. As long as you have pre-set bolts in there, you're golden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Here's a drawing, use 2" carraige bolts 10-20 threads(mounted from the front-side of the baffle and pointing into the back chamber). Use 1/2" washer and 1/4" jam nut on carraige bolt. The board mounts over the carraige bolts with 3/4" washers and wing nuts. The picture refers to the front of the board, as the countersinks face the baffle and fit over the jam nut/washer so that the motor board is flush with the baffle board when the wing nuts are tight. Forgot to add: you will also need to seal the baffle with a strip of foam weather stripping around the throat cavity opening. Then you get an air tight seal and no rattles when the motor board whith the driver on it is attached. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 ---------------- On 1/4/2005 5:54:57 PM ooteedee wrote: Once the motorboard goes in.....replacing it will be very, very difficult. ---------------- Not with wingnuts; try and take out the woofer of a stock one, if you think 4 wing nuts is a problem! You are aware that the LS cabinet access panel is on the bottom? and it can be cut larger than the plans specify,i.e all the way to the edge of the doghouse front and sides? so what's the problem? DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 D-Man, Nice drawing! I'm gonna save that one. Do you have a copy that isn't sized that small? Here is the bass extension. I could provide details but I'll let you search under two channel to find it. Bass to 31Hz. The picture is pretty self explanatory and yes, people have done this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockets Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 ooteedee, concerning the Bass Bin top...that's correct or at least it's the way mine is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooteedee Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 D-Man: Yes. I am aware of the opening below. I meant replacing the actual motorboard would be tricky. Your idea of a separate woofer mount board idea is what I was asking about in earlier posts. Essentially "stacking" motorboards. Small over large once I get a better driver. But I thought you said there was an issue with the cavity between woofer and entrance to horn. Either way, I'll make the baffle as you say. I have a feeling a better driver will be in my future. Marvel: Very nice rendering.......and a cool idea. Thanks. Easily done, perhaps, once I see how it sounds as planned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 Early LS had the woofer door on the top of the "doghouse", which would make the mod easy. If you think you might want to do it later, make the hole in the top now, with another hatch to seal it off until needed. Almost no work now, and lots more if you decide to do it later. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooteedee Posted January 5, 2005 Author Share Posted January 5, 2005 Marvel: I can't find the thread about the ported LaScala in 2 Channel. Little help? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 These might wander a bit: http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=36054&forumID=68&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={BFBBCFBD-74CC-4815-870C-D89BB808B72B} http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=35527&forumID=71&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={BFBBCFBD-74CC-4815-870C-D89BB808B72B} http://forums.klipsch.com/idealbb/view.asp?topicID=45546&forumID=71&catID=19&search=1&searchstring=&sessionID={BFBBCFBD-74CC-4815-870C-D89BB808B72B} Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooteedee Posted January 5, 2005 Author Share Posted January 5, 2005 Wow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 "Your idea of a separate woofer mount board idea is what I was asking about in earlier posts. Essentially "stacking" motorboards. Small over large once I get a better driver. But I thought you said there was an issue with the cavity between woofer and entrance to horn." Why would you want to stack them? I don't understand why you keep coming back to this. With the 6x13" cutout on the baffle board (not the motorboard), the motorboard cutout becomes the "controller" in that it either is the same size or is a smaller size cutout. The separate motor boards are not "intended" to be stacked, HOWEVER, they can be used in "certain ways" to accomplish other throat-like things, or have an additional 14" circular hole for allowinging extended cone excursion, and are a good experimental device. Even mounting multiple drivers, if you're handy with building, ect. But let me be clear about this: there is NO NEED to stack the motorboards, but have it your way. I don't see any harm except that you will be using up some back chamber displacement to do so. The limit is the size of the LS back chamber, of course. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 here is a pic of a larger example driver mounting board. You can see the countersink and stuff in it. These are for my corner horns, they are 17x17" or so. The LS would have to be 15x15 instead. The woofer is an Eminence Kappa 15LF with a 6x13" cutout that is a 1:1 match to the throat cavity opening in the baffle board. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 "back" view of the same motor board and driver. Please note that I have the K33E with the 3x6" opening in the corner horns as the preferred (but slightly more expensive) driver. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ooteedee Posted January 5, 2005 Author Share Posted January 5, 2005 D-Man Sorry for the confusion. But.... Let's say I build the MOTORBOARD with a 6x13 hole. Then mount my cheap driver ONTO the motorboard as usual. Seal it up and see how it sounds. THEN ... I get a raise at work and can afford to buy a better driver. So.... I take out the old driver... Leave the motorboard with the 6x13 hole in place because there's no way I'm going to take the whole cabinet apart to do so... make a new baffle with a 3x13 hole. Mount the new driver on it..... And .... Mount that onto the existing motorboard that's already inside the doghouse. THAT'S what I mean by "stacking". Maybe I shouldn't have said "stacking motorboards". Is this correct? Thanks. PS: I've almost got it. Please be patient! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted January 5, 2005 Share Posted January 5, 2005 WAIT! taking the driver/motor board assembly out consists of removing the screws on the bottom access panel and then untightening 4 wing nuts on the carraige bolts, then remove the now-loose motor board and driver from the carraige bolts and take from the cabinet through the access cutout. It's interchangable, dude! You need not leave anything in the back chamber that you don't want or shouldn't be there... Somewhere earlier in this thread, I posted a pic of the inside of (my horns) back chamber (open with driver/board removed). It shows the baffle cutout and the 4 carraige bolts used to mount the motor board inside the back chamber. Take another look at that. The more recent pics show the motor board with the driver mounted on it sitting on the floor. I intended this to make sense! Where did I go wrong in explaining this?! 1) the baffle is the part of the doghouse that forms the horn throat 2) the baffle cutout is FIXED at 6x13" (also called the throat cavity opening) 3) the motor board is the smaller separate piece of plywood that the woofer is mounted to (as shown in the previous pics) however, it should be 15" square for the LS 4) a) a motor board with cutout of 6x13" to match the baffle cutout for non-K33E woofers 4) a different motor board with a cutout of 3x13" to use the K33E woofer 5) the selected motor board/woofer combination is then mounted to the baffle using the carraige bolts and wing nuts described previously 6) only one driver/motor board combination is used at a time DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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