Jump to content

RF-7 driver out


Kriton

Recommended Posts

Thank You! I understand how things can get frustrating here sometimes.

--------------------------------

Perhaps I will close my account!

--------------------------------

No need to do that. You're welcome here like any one else. Thanks and have a nice week,

and every one else too. 1.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

----------------

On 8/25/2005 9:02:40 AM jpm wrote:

This thread peaks my interest. OK Klipsch, how do I know if I have the right stuff in my RF7s? What do I look for besides pulling out the crossovers?

----------------

I wanna know that too!

N

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been seeing the 3.6uF value from the RC-7 showing up on the RF-7 board where the 5uF is supposed to be. I've seen three of these from my last five customers.

I went through my parts bag full of yanked RF-7 parts and found three 3.6uF values. I did a lot of work over the last few months and I can't remember if I pulled these from a pair that was sent with a single from someone's pair, or three singles from three pair sent, etc ... one thing that does stand out in my mind is that when I was doing one of them the terminal cup had the thinner plastic standoffs for the top board than what's currently used. This would have made that a pretty early model.

I never thought I would start a general freak out with the comment. People need to know I've done so many I've lost count, and I seriously doubt these three flukes mean much of anything in the big picture scheme of things.

If anyone wants to know if their RF-7's are 'normal' (as I'm sure 99.999% will be) -- just remove the terminal cup in the back using a torx bit #20. The network is attached to the back of the cup. There are two boards, one on top of the other. There are two relatively small red/orange oval capacitors glued down to the top of the bottom next to the two coils (round thingies:). The two capacitor values are 12 and 5, and you will see these numbers printed on the top of the caps. You might need a flashlight to get a good look. The whole process will probably take less than five minutes, so if you're stressed about this you mind as well open them up and look.

RC-7's: I've done about a half dozen or so, and there were adhesive issues with all of them.

BobG -- I got your email. I'll attempt to figure out who these folks were and get some serial numbers for you. I'm too busy to keep organized/meticulous records. In fact, my email box fills up with so much stuff from people I typically just blast the stuff at the bottom of the list to make room for more. If a previous customer needs me for something, I just rely on the fact they'll get a hold of me somehow, and I'll remember them when I see their name. Yes, I know - pathetic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dean!

Thanks for the information, I will go home and take 'em apart tonight. The problem is, many of these folks are buying "new" RF-7's that have been sitting for a long time due to stock/price/inventory issues at some dealers, so it is possible that we may have some of the newer models hanging around pretending to be "new", but they are really NOS.

Hey I sent you an e-mail myself about building me some new crossovers adn bringing them to the Heritage gathering in AK? I will message you again.

Thanks!

K

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I seriously doubt anyone has early production models still sitting in stock. I suspect that is probably what we are dealing with here -- a handful from a very early production run.

Hey, isn't that 3.6uF value like 25% within 5uF. Isn't that close enough?:) Shoot, most of you Klispschters are half deaf anyways -- probably wouldn't even be able to hear the difference. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope you're not serious? I already stated I only found three out of the dozens I've done, and I'm pretty sure they were from a very early production run.

Kriton -- that last post was tongue in cheek. However, you'd be surprised at how far you can swing out of tolerance and not hear it. If one speaker were "off" compared to the other, one might pick up on it in the imaging. If both speakers were "off" a bit, but "off" the same amount -- it would sound completely "right".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dean!

I know it was meant to be humorous, but most of us know where you live. ;)

It doesn't surprise me at all, it is only by doing side by side

comparisons that I have a clue that something might not be quite

"right", otherwise I just chalk it up to the "sound" of that pair of

speakers...and then toss in different source components and material

and you will have a hell of a time getting it all straight...

K

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...