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Power conditioning... please forgive me on this topic.


nuclearay

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I want to blow my brains out.

I know this subject has been beat into the ground, I am sick of it too. But after pooring over forums here and elsewhere, my eyes keep glazing over, spittle runs down my lip, and I can't seem to make any headway as to what direction to take.

I ,like, know that, like, MOVs are, like, bad, and stuff. Huh huh.

What I am interested in for my purposes:

I would not like to have any current clamping or any ill-dynamic effects on my reciever and amp.

I would like to protect my TV and DVD player (as well as xbox and dish reciever) from overvoltages as well as undervoltages (brown-out conditions).

Coax protection (from the satellite/wall to the dish receiver) would seem wise, but I am guessing there is a different and cheap solution that would not necessarily have to be incorporated here.

Battery backup, while not necessary, could be included.

Is there a single solution or combination of units that can achieve what I am after?

Help.[:'(]

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I want to blow my brains out.

I know this subject has been beat into the ground, I am sick of it too. But after pooring over forums here and elsewhere, my eyes keep glazing over, spittle runs down my lip, and I can't seem to make any headway as to what direction to take.

I ,like, know that, like, MOVs are, like, bad, and stuff. Huh huh.

What I am interested in for my purposes:

I would not like to have any current clamping or any ill-dynamic effects on my reciever and amp.

I would like to protect my TV and DVD player (as well as xbox and dish reciever) from overvoltages as well as undervoltages (brown-out conditions).

Coax protection (from the satellite/wall to the dish receiver) would seem wise, but I am guessing there is a different and cheap solution that would not necessarily have to be incorporated here.

Battery backup, while not necessary, could be included.

Is there a single solution or combination of units that can achieve what I am after?

Help.[:'(]

First off, TPMOVs (thermally protected MOVs) do not 'wear out' like traditional MOVs. Plus either type is very easy to swap with just a soldering iron.

That issue aside...........

As your list includes brown out protection, you require a current source, which generally is a deep cycle battery based unit (unless you are really seriously interested and we can look at gas/diesel powered units![:P] )

For this, you will need a UPS capable of providing the current load of your system. Most most quality units will condition, provide surge protection via an isolation transformer, and provide reserve capacity for outages - at least long enough to power the unit down. I would also make sure that the unit accomodated phone, coax cable, and ethernet (as the majority of surge damage occurrs via the phone, antenna or network connections.)

On a budget, and you are powering a TV as well....well, I can't promise you that a budget UPS will handle your current demands...but you need to determine the total maximum load or your system and use that as a starting point.

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The max consumption rating for all of the equipment is around 2500w. The circuit is rated @ 15amps.

The sub is on a different circuit fed through a Brickwall. I may add a battery to that as well.

My thinking so far is:

Brickwall>>UPS>>Belkin PF60.

Are you seriously thinking of using all three in series!?[:o]

I would be more likely to 'pick one'!

And the Belkin costs $750!? You can be sure it won't be that one!

And just a comment based on a quick perusal of the marketing hype...enough with the MOV bashing! Is this the only mantra they have? MOVs are a good component when used in conjuction with other surge mechanisms! And TPMOVs do NOT exhibit the same aging as traditional MOVs!

But when 3/4 of a product's merit is based upon their bashing traditional MOVs, one wonders just what they are doing, as they are not promoting their own whiz bang technology! And aside from $8 strips, I don't know too many surge protectors that are only using MOVs. So is that what they are feeling so threatened by?

An interesting market!

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http://www.apcc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=S15

http://www.apcc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=h15

I've been researching for this purchase recently and I like these units from APC.

I'm leaning toward the H15. I really like the S15, for the battery backup. I think that would be a great feature for my RPTV. My tv has a fan to cool the bulb after it is shut down. This is supposed to extend bulb life. So I thought if the power goes out while your watching it, no fan to cool bulb. Bulb life is then shortend. My biggest struggle is the price difference. The S15 can be had for a little over $1000, where as the H15 is around $400. I can almost buy 3 new bulbs for my TV for the price difference. Thats like 25000 hrs of viewing time, so I don't think I can justify the more expensive S15 unit.

Jeremy

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I have to say that anyone who has known people who have had to file a claim on any equipment would know the answer to this question. APC and Belkin are the worst two out of everyone on standing behind their claims. From working in a High End AV store for 5 years, i saw hundreds of people come in to tell the sob story about their line conditioners and power centers blowing and not protecting their equipment. If you want the best deal you should get a Monster HTS3500mkII or Monster HTS2000MKII they are 449.95 and 249.95 rspectively. I had a customer with an HTS1000mkII and His Sony KV40XBR800 got hot by lightning. They had a TV repair place check it out, and they sent a check for the repair. All within one week. I own the AVS2000SS and the HTPS7000SS from Monster and would not get anything else. They are all designed by the world renouned Richard Marsh of Richard Marsh Sound Designs. Not a bunch of know names who make mid level computer equipment. Even APC high end stuff is way overrated.

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Whatever you pick, do yourself a favor and have an electrician (or you

can do it yourself, its not hard if you know how to work with basic

electrial panels) install a whole house surge suppresor on your panel.

Its cheap (they cost from $50 to $150) depending on the model. They are

the BEST suppresion (they shunt both phases to ground.. which is

immediate since its right NEXT to the ground) you can buy for the money.

You can go around and around talking about suppresion, but a suppresor

at your audio equipment cant suppress a surge that comes up all 3 lines

(hot, neutral, ground) at once since it has no where to shunt it to.

If its shunt at the panel you will never have a surge coming up ground

since you are right AT the ground (a lightning stike in theory could

hit the few feet of line from the box to the ground and nothing else

but it would then travel down into ground and not up to the box.

The panel suppresor can thefore shunt any incoming 2 phase event

straight to ground before it starts bouncing around in your house

blowing stuff up merrily along the way. If you area is prone to

lightning stikes, this is a no brainer 75 bux spent.

Btw you still need point suppresion on sensitive electronics (stereo)

with this setup. But at least you dont have to worry about your grage

door openers, lights, microwave, oven, range, ect blowing up if the

electric lines by your house are struck.

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I have to say that anyone who has known people who have had to file a claim on any equipment would know the answer to this question. APC and Belkin are the worst two out of everyone on standing behind their claims. From working in a High End AV store for 5 years, i saw hundreds of people come in to tell the sob story about their line conditioners and power centers blowing and not protecting their equipment. If you want the best deal you should get a Monster HTS3500mkII or Monster HTS2000MKII they are 449.95 and 249.95 rspectively. I had a customer with an HTS1000mkII and His Sony KV40XBR800 got hot by lightning. They had a TV repair place check it out, and they sent a check for the repair. All within one week. I own the AVS2000SS and the HTPS7000SS from Monster and would not get anything else. They are all designed by the world renouned Richard Marsh of Richard Marsh Sound Designs. Not a bunch of know names who make mid level computer equipment. Even APC high end stuff is way overrated.

I just found this deal on a Monster HTS1000 for $69.88 plus shipping at jr.com.

http://www.jr.com/JRProductPage.process?Product_Id=13998&JRSource=linkshare.datafeed.MC+HTS1000

According to pricegrabber, that is $15 cheaper than eCost. You could go with the 'reference' one (HTS1000mkII) mentioned above for about $100.

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I have to say that anyone who has known people who have had to file a claim on any equipment would know the answer to this question. APC and Belkin are the worst two out of everyone on standing behind their claims. From working in a High End AV store for 5 years, i saw hundreds of people come in to tell the sob story about their line conditioners and power centers blowing and not protecting their equipment. If you want the best deal you should get a Monster HTS3500mkII or Monster HTS2000MKII they are 449.95 and 249.95 rspectively. I had a customer with an HTS1000mkII and His Sony KV40XBR800 got hot by lightning. They had a TV repair place check it out, and they sent a check for the repair. All within one week. I own the AVS2000SS and the HTPS7000SS from Monster and would not get anything else. They are all designed by the world renouned Richard Marsh of Richard Marsh Sound Designs. Not a bunch of know names who make mid level computer equipment. Even APC high end stuff is way overrated.

Holy crap, "Hundreds of people" in 5 years. You're exaggerating right? Are there lots of lightening strikes Lebanon, horrible utility infrastructure, car bombs?

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