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Couple of nice MKIIIs


Erik Mandaville

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Or a great-looking OTL from Atmosphere. I've read a few good reviews of this amp as well. Obviously I'm into the retro-tech sort of appearance.

Erik

edit: forgot the link

http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?ampstube&1134674695

edit2: Check the other items, too. There is a Dyna70 rebuild I would buy right now if I could. The prices for the level of craftsmanship and quality are very good IMO.

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Speaking of Mk III's, VRD's and such, I have a pair of these sitting in the closet (mine are all chrome, though).

I had no idea at the time that these were pretty much modernistic Mk III's...

made by a now-defunct company that did alot of after-market Dynaco stuff.

DM

post-13458-1381927439691_thumb.jpg

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The only problem I see with these Mark III's is the guy used a lower voltage rating power supply can at only 500V. The original Mark III's biggest draw back was it chewed up the power supply filter cans and spit them out. The originals were rated at 525V which wasn't nearly enough even with a slow start 5AR4 rectifier. Now I'm sure the seller will say that is why he specs a 5U4 rectifier but in reality that will only net you 15V max drop in the B+(been there tried that). Then factor in the the 5U4 is a instant on rectifier that will slam the can with 540V or more instantly everytime you turn it on and this voltage will stay that way until the output tube heaters warm up the cathodes. Net result cathode stripping hell and early failure for the power supply. There is a much better approach to solving this problem but it cost more.

Craig

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"Then factor in the the 5U4 is a instant on rectifier that will slam the can with 540V or more instantly everytime you turn it on and this voltage will stay that way until the output tube heaters warm up the cathodes. Net result cathode stripping hell and early failure for the power supply. There is a much better approach to solving this problem but it cost more."

I have heard it said that as long as the rectifier is vacuum tube, one does not have the risk and subsequent problems of instantaneous in-rush current. That's not true, as you mention above. A couple of things that can be done at not too great an expense (just a little work) involve the installation of standby mode, which could be as simple as a switch installed on the center tap of the of the high voltage winding of the power supply transformer. IOW, B+ isn't applied to the plates (manually, by making the switch) until the fiilaments have warmed the tube. The correct thermistor can also be used on the power transformer primary winding, which will provide something of a soft-start feature. These are actually very effective, and are inexpensive.

Erik

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Sound Valves, NOSValves? Hmmmmmmm............................?????????????

Rest assured, the name NOSValves had zero to do with Sound Valves. It's a strange coincidence though.

kh

Yup you got that right. The name NOS Valves came from my previous drag racing internet name NOS440. Kelly came up with the idea of keeping the NOS and adding Valves. We thought NOSTubes would be to lame. Kelly came through with the Idea Valves. It sounded cool and left the door open if I decided to sell tubes or something.

Craig

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"Then factor in the the 5U4 is a instant on rectifier that will slam the can with 540V or more instantly everytime you turn it on and this voltage will stay that way until the output tube heaters warm up the cathodes. Net result cathode stripping hell and early failure for the power supply. There is a much better approach to solving this problem but it cost more."

I have heard it said that as long as the rectifier is vacuum tube, one does not have the risk and subsequent problems of instantaneous in-rush current. That's not true, as you mention above. A couple of things that can be done at not too great an expense (just a little work) involve the installation of standby mode, which could be as simple as a switch installed on the center tap of the of the high voltage winding of the power supply transformer. IOW, B+ isn't applied to the plates (manually, by making the switch) until the fiilaments have warmed the tube. The correct thermistor can also be used on the power transformer primary winding, which will provide something of a soft-start feature. These are actually very effective, and are inexpensive.

Erik

Sure the things you mention would help and can be done! But my question is why not fix the problem or at least install a can rated higher. This guy would rather save the $20 then buy a 525 volt can. He would also rather use a $5 5U4 then a proper 5AR4 that costs more and at least slows the voltage spike some and lessons its duration.

Oh and were not talking in-rush current here were talking voltage spike big difference between voltage and current. The voltage spike is caused by a lack of current draw. With a 5U4 an inrush current limiter (thermistor) will do little good because there is no real substancial current being drawn on the B+ at start up these Thermistors work by current being drawn through them so no major

current little effect. They work fine with a 5AR4 because it affords some time for the filaments to warm up before producing B+ so when the B+ starts rising the in-rush current limiter will kick in and slow the process even further. Its all about experience and testing and not being cheap.

Craig

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D-MAN,

You have those sitting in a closet? That is crazy get them amps playing tunes.

Craig

Craig, well maybe so. These got pushed out of the system by a Mc300.

I haven't ever heard them on horns! sort of stupid, I know.

I just haven't got the space for all of them at the same time.

If they EVER need something, I'm sending them to you - you clearly have the expertise to deal with these orphans.

DM

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