tofu Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 i'm glad i decided not to solder yet, otherwise i'd be screwed. it may look as though the woofer inductor lead is not connected to anything, but it is.. it's just hard to see in the crappy photos. i apologize, but a cameraphone is all i have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Did you remove the enamel coating from the ends of the inductors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tofu Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Did you remove the enamel coating from the ends of the inductors? [] so i just scrape it off with a knife? edit: same process for litz? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tofu Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 is the silvery coating on the cap leads supposed to be scraped off too at the tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 I use the soldering iron. Make sure the tip is clean when you start. Stretch out the lead, and then put something heavy on it a couple of inches back to stop it from moving around. Lay your tip on the end and rub back and forth -- you're going to melt it off. When you hit copper you will feel the tip scrape a bit -- start feeding solder. Stop for a second and clean your tip again. Back to the lead and keep feeding solder. I usually go until it starts dripping off and takes most of the enamel with it. Solder will not stick to the enamel, you know you're done when the quarter inch or so you've been working 'holds' the solder. You don't want a big glob on the end of the lead, so after you remove the iron give the lead a little flick with your finger to knock off the excess solder. Wear saftey glasses, and keep the kids away. Let it cool a couple of minutes and clean the end with alcohol. It took much longer to write this than it takes to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tofu Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 thanks for the guide, dean [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Especially the litz -- each individual strand is coated. The leads on the caps are tin -- they are ready to go. I usually forego tinning the leads on caps and just use a little bit of flux on the joint to help get things going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 O.K. JC -- it took a while but we have a DBB Cornscala filter. Al finally convinced me the series connection just ends up being a step back. The small gain in sensitivity (if any) doesn't bring any real rewards for the effort you put into the build/concept. So, parallel it is. My issue here of course is the extremely low impedance, and I remembered from the other thread that you wanted to try tubes someday. I ended up reading through that whole thread again before I called Al, and he agreed with one of the posts in the thread that indicated the impedance would actually be more like 3 ohms. Al ran simulations while I drank coffee and annoyed him as much as possible:) Al sees the whole thing coming in more like 3.5 ohms and I suggested a filter based on four ohms. We started with modifying the Cornwall ALK (4 ohm filter) with a 400Hz crossover. After several interations it became a modified Universal Type A. You will be able to run this off the 4 ohm taps of any tube amplifer without any trouble. Squawker level is adjustable as opposed to fixed, and the tweeter section assumes a K-77 is used. If you use a different driver you need to use an L-pad, another autoformer/swamping resistor, or Al's tweeter attenuator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted December 1, 2005 Author Share Posted December 1, 2005 Let me take a time out to be a little mushy. I can't thank you guys enough for doing this for me. I am a newbie trying to have fun and you guys (yall) just make this more fun. I've been on this forum one year now and and it has been one great roller coaster ride. People reading this need to realize what an asset it is to have such great contrubutions to audio. Ok. I'm out of tissue now. I will order those parts. I sure as heck am going to build it since "yall" spent the time to help me. The tweeter will be the JBL2404. No experience with the Lpads. May run it as is and then add the attenuation later. It will be hard for me to sleep tonight. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 jw, One clarifcation: The 136 uF cap is two 68 uF in parallel. Al K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted December 2, 2005 Author Share Posted December 2, 2005 Yes Al. I assumed that. Thanks again. Can't wait to try it. I have circled the parts I don't have right now. It takes me forever to get them from Solen. Do you all have these on hand for me to purchase? I also need one 1.5mH 14 awg litz inductor and one 10 watt 20ohm resistor. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 (2) x http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-946&DID=7 (2) x http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-952&DID=7 (2) x http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=266-904 (2) x http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=255-428&DID=7 (peel back to 1.6) (2) x http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=004-6 So, two each of the following: 027-946 027-952 266-904 255-428 004-6 The 1.6mH value is in 18 AWG and does not need to be litz. I think the Janzten 1.8mH 15AWG coil peeled down to 1.6 will work nicely. 20 ohm resistor assumes -3dB on the tweeter. This works with my Beymas but may not be enough for the 2404. What is that things sensitivity anyways? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted December 2, 2005 Author Share Posted December 2, 2005 Great. I was thinking I had to use the Solen stuff to get it right. Partsexpress can get that stuff to me in no time.Good question on the JBL 8 Ohms<?XML:NAMESPACE PREFIX = O /> Frequency Response 3k Hz - 21.5kHz Continuous Program Power 40 Watts Dispersion 100° x 100° Minimum Cut-off Frequency 3k Hz or higher w/ 12dB slope Sensitivity (SPL) 105dB This is all I got for specs.Dean. I have that JBL unattenuated right now and it sounds great on a Type A design. I was thinking I would need only about 1-2dB attenuation if any. I can't get that with a type T2A can I? How do you unwind the inductor to 1.6mH? I don't have a way to measure inductance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 jw, If you ship that 1.8 mHy coil to me I'll cut it down to the right value. I can measure inductance to +-0.05% Al K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted December 2, 2005 Author Share Posted December 2, 2005 Thanks. I'll accept your offer. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 Jw, Good! I always enjoy evaluating stuff like that. It gives me a chance to measure "Q" and overall quality. I've never gotten my fingers on that particular brand inductor before. Al K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tofu Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 boy do these scalas sound different Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 LOL Which taps are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tofu Posted December 2, 2005 Share Posted December 2, 2005 3 and 0 haven't really screwed around with them much today. i'll save that for tomorrow, but i think this is probably going to be the best setting for my gigantic 11x11 room. so.. what's next? 511b's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOSValves Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 One goof on the schematic guy's you should include two woofers in parallel on the schematic. Now I have a question. If a guy was so inclined to want to run dual Lascala bass bins with a single Lascala top section would this crossover work for that application? Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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