bearhifi Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 Hello, I was wondering if someone could give me some info regarding HWOs??? I have read about ones and twos but nothing about Heresys type HWOs<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> I have always wanted a pair of Heresys and now I found it for 30 bucks. Also would someone know where I could get a manual? As always thank you for your time. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Reed Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 WO = Walnut Oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearhifi Posted December 18, 2005 Author Share Posted December 18, 2005 WO = Walnut Oil So they are first generations? <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 You have Heresys as opposed to Heresy IIs, or now Heresy IIIs. HWO is the model designation within the line. It stands for "Heresy Walnut Oil", in other words walnut veneer and and oil finish. HOL would be "Heresy oak lacquer". Don't know where you would get a manual. There doesn't seem to be one on the Klipsch site. Don't worry though, the "manual" I got with mine in 1972 was nothing more than a single sheet the jist of which was they were a 8-16 ohm speaker system and to use zip cord of at least 16 ga. to connect them. If you list the serial numbers, someone can tell you what year they were made. Enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearhifi Posted December 18, 2005 Author Share Posted December 18, 2005 Thanks for the help! What Type network does it have? The serial number is 0415136. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSport Posted December 18, 2005 Share Posted December 18, 2005 should be E and the "5" you have is probably an "S" (1978) Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearhifi Posted December 18, 2005 Author Share Posted December 18, 2005 should be E and the "5" you have is probably an "S" (1980) Bill I pulled out the crossover and it says E-2... What is the T2A used for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 should be E and the "5" you have is probably an "S" (1980) Bill I pulled out the crossover and it says E-2... What is the T2A used for? It evens out the output of the squawker to match the woofer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frzninvt Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 1980 is a good year, those will have the very desirable solder terminal K-55V midrange drivers, although they will have the cheaper (thinner K-700 horn) attached to them. They should also have the K-77M square magnet tweeter, they look beat to piss in that photo but they will still sound stellar though. For $30 you cannot go wrong, the parts alone are worth considerably more than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 S = 1978 a pair of the K-55 on K-700 horns went for like $260 on ebay last week. the tweeters will bring near $100 per, the woofers are a little harder to sell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSport Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 whoooops...Tom is correct...1978...(I have two pair, '78s and '80s and quoted you the wrong pair spec...) Bill[:$] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted December 19, 2005 Share Posted December 19, 2005 Something is not right. AFAIK E2 network was not used until the last years when the K-55-V squakwer driver was replaced with the K-52-H followed by the K-53-K. What model squawker driver do you have? If you have a K-55-V, just remove the 33 uF cap and you will that the appropriate network, a Type E. The T2A is an autotransformer. It is there primarily to reduce signal level going to the the squawker and tweeter because they are much more sensitive than the woofer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearhifi Posted December 19, 2005 Author Share Posted December 19, 2005 Something is not right. AFAIK E2 network was not used until the last years when the K-55-V squakwer driver was replaced with the K-52-H followed by the K-53-K. What model squawker driver do you have? If you have a K-55-V, just remove the 33 uF cap and you will that the appropriate network, a Type E. The T2A is an autotransformer. It is there primarily to reduce signal level going to the the squawker and tweeter because they are much more sensitive than the woofer. The mid horn is a K-53-k and the tweeter is aK-77-m Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearhifi Posted December 19, 2005 Author Share Posted December 19, 2005 S = 1978 a pair of the K-55 on K-700 horns went for like $260 on ebay last week. the tweeters will bring near $100 per, the woofers are a little harder to sell. They have all the same parts however one says 8or 0 415137 and the other says 0415136??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearhifi Posted December 19, 2005 Author Share Posted December 19, 2005 1980 is a good year, those will have the very desirable solder terminal K-55V midrange drivers, although they will have the cheaper (thinner K-700 horn) attached to them. They should also have the K-77M square magnet tweeter, they look beat to piss in that photo but they will still sound stellar though. For $30 you cannot go wrong, the parts alone are worth considerably more than that. The guy I got them from had them laying down on rocks... I really like these and I like them better the kg4s that I had. I am goning to redo the cabinets and caps... Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 Sounds like what you have are 1984 Heresys. The E2 network is the correct one for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 Congrats. I've sure you can dust them off with a vacuum cleaner with the brush attachment and then scrub down the veneer with Scotchbrite and furnature oil. The latter will not hurt the veneer. The process results in a bit of a slurry of contamination and just a very very little oxidized wood. You can soak it up with paper towels and give it a second go, and third, until they are clean. Everyone has an idea on amps. Low power tube amps are a perenial favorite. They are not cheap. OTOH, I've had good results with old low power solid state amps from the orient. So if you have any of that sort of thing around the house, you should give it a try. They're cheap at second hand shops. I have Forte II which are a bit similar. A present day, little Sony mini-system receiver-CD does very well. So again, if you have something like this around the house, you should experiment. Best, Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearhifi Posted December 26, 2005 Author Share Posted December 26, 2005 Well I got them all cleaned up... I replaced the 2uf caps with Auricaps and add damping to the mid. I all so put some felt around the tweet and mid opening. They are still a little bright to me however that mite change after the caps break in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted December 26, 2005 Share Posted December 26, 2005 NICE JOB on the clean up. They shined up real nice, didn't they? Do you have grilles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearhifi Posted December 26, 2005 Author Share Posted December 26, 2005 NICE JOB on the clean up. They shined up real nice, didn't they? Do you have grilles? Thanks! I was going to re veneer them however when I started to sand them down I learned that I could still use whats on them. Yes I have the grill but I am missing one label... Any ideas on where I could get one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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