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Trachorn tweeters


3dzapper

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Has anyone modled or tried the Trachorn tweeters from the Reference Series line with Heritage?

I mean tweeters like theK-105-KV from an RC-3II or the K-67-DV from the RF-7. These are very nice sounding tweeters and I am wondering how they would stand up against the K-77, Byema or JBL 2404.

On a lark this morning, I hooked up my RC-3II to the upper end of a Belle at the squaker tap of Type AAs and the K-77 disconnected. The results, though less than steller are interesting. Jazz piano has a sound, to me, when played through the stock horns to sound more like an upright than an opened grand piano. More "h0nkey tonk". This effect is lessened withn the K-500 v the K-400 and the fact that the Belles have the solder lug K-55s. That effect is removed with the C-3II. Granted there is a loss of detail and immediateness along with a slightly bloated, mismatched lower midrange due to the efficiency mismatchusing the complete RC. Later I removed the K-105 KV from the RC attaching it to the HF taps. the highs are very good.v the K-77at least equal and more extended. IMO they both need a little padding with the Belles.

I am sure the K-67 would be better yet. The advantage here as I can see is the ability to cross over at a lower point allowing the use of different squaker drivers optimized for mid-range, not designed to extend to 6KHz.

I know the 2404 is up to a lower crossover point. It would be interesting what could be done with an in house unit.

Rick

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Rick,

What you noted is the bad K400 squawker horn! It's not the tweeter! Remember that the AA runs the squawker full range above 400 Hz.

I think what Bob is hinting at is an improved tweeter. That's a step forward but you need a better squawker horn even more. The tweeter contributes the crispness and "air" to the sound, but the squawker determines the character and "presance" of the sound.

Al K.

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Bob and Al,

Are correct on this, the K500/400 squawkers are adequate yet unremarkable. Exchanging your squawker will yield tremendous improvement. Al's trachorn and the Altec 511b are exceptional choices for your configuration. Bob's hint is truly worth waiting for IMO.[;)]

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Bob and Al,

Are correct on this, the K500/400 squawkers are adequate yet unremarkable. Exchanging your squawker will yield tremendous improvement. Al's trachorn and the Altec 511b are exceptional choices for your configuration. Bob's hint is truly worth waiting for IMO.[;)]

Like these?

Rick

post-12829-13819278353292_thumb.jpg

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Rick,

Those look firmiliar! One comment though: According to Bruce Edgar in his article, using one layer of bendable wood like you have there ins't enough. It allows resonances. That's why my Trachorn uses two layer of two different thickness materials and an absorbant adheasive between them. The prototype in the piacure used 4 layers of 1/8 inch masontie. That was overkill though!

Al K.

post-2934-13819278354252_thumb.jpg

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They are much closer to your prototypes than your pretty new ones that's for sure. I did copy your bendable material process rather than Dr Edgar's MDF strips. Much easier and most likely a better finished horn.

There are two layers there AL adhered together with Liquid Nails. It has some "give" to it. All of those screws there are mainly for gluing. They are too short to go through more than 3/16" past the second layer. That way I could avoid poking through into the horn's interior. There is still a little filling to do here and there.

After I audition them, if I like the results, I plan to coat them with sand impregnanted resin. That will both damp them and make them monolithic. I thought about a constrained asphalt layer but was concerned with adhesion.

My next challange, incorporating a suitable end plate.

Rick

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Rick,

On my prototype I just filed everthing on the throat flat and square then fastened the driver board on with 2 long wood screws and glue. Martinelly is using 6 pieces that stick out 6 ways with 6 long machine screws to hold the driver board on. I don't have the skill to do it like that though. The advantage there is that the driver board will come off to mount the driver from behind. My way needed another board sandwitched on that held the driver.

Al K.

post-2934-13819278355292_thumb.jpg

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That is about the same as I pictured in my mind Al. I have already mounted the "wings" for lack of a better term. I was thinking about using studs, wood screw on one end, standard threads on the other that way I can make different terminations to play with. That will be next weeks project. looking at your horns and inside dementions, the next pair I build will have to be a tad longer and terminate smaller. With removable ends I could build a laminated extention if need be.

Rick

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