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Cornwall II guys, need you to look at something for me.


m00n

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Are the horns and woofer recessed into the motorboard or are they sitting ontop of them? I'm about to start modifying my CW 1 cabs into CW 2 cabs and need to know how the components are mounted.

If they are recessed, are they flush or do they stick out?

Thanks

m00n

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Are the horns and woofer recessed into the motorboard or are they sitting ontop of them? I'm about to start modifying my CW 1 cabs into CW 2 cabs and need to know how the components are mounted.

If they are recessed, are they flush or do they stick out?

Thanks

m00n

How will you flush mount a K77?

jc

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"My corns are going to have a WAF applied to them."

So how many bose cubes can you make with a pair of cornwall cabinets?[:P]

Oh no you di-ent [;)]

What will you do with your old cabinets?

I'm using them. I'm just dressing them up a bit. I have some ideas nothing is set in stone yet.
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interesting. Wonder how much that weakens the plywood. Those woofers are heavy. Are those normal wood screws that are holding the components in place or are they regular screws with nuts?

I'm not sure of the thickness of the motor board. I wasn't paying attention to that detail when I pulled the speakers to change a tweeter dia.

They are in there with wood screws. I was careful to turn them backwards a little until I found the thread so I wouldn't make new threads and strip the holes. (bad description but I think you know what I mean)

I'm guessing the motorboard is 1". If you really need to know I can pull a driver out and check.

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No sonic difference. I'd opt to keep as much motorboard material as possible. Just make sure your stand-offs for your grille will work with the new configuration, or you might have to make some. Just check to see if any grille will fit on there after you front mount the woofer.

Michael

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No sonic difference. I'd opt to keep as much motorboard material as possible. Just make sure your stand-offs for your grille will work with the new configuration, or you might have to make some. Just check to see if any grille will fit on there after you front mount the woofer.

Michael

Yup, I will be making my own grills. God willing, they will look exactly like my RF7 grills only wider to match the width of the cornwalls.

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"I know my motorboard is 3/4" ply. I can't imagine that there would be any sonic difference to the overall sound if I just placed them on top... Right?"

You may have to cut the hole for the 15" woofer a little larger diameter to drop the woofer flush with the front of the baffle.

Same with the midhorn and tweeter.

If you are willing to go through all that trouble, you may as well route out a lip out of the diameter a quarter, half inch to get the woofer flush even with the motorboard.

The attached pic shows what I'm trying to explain.

Whether it matters sonic-wise I dunno......the way they have the woofer mounted on a cornwall on the back of the motorboard leaves that 3/4" of plywood thickness in front of the woofer. A guy would think the plywood thickness in front of the woofer would affect it in a horn like way.

Whether it does or not I have no clue.........

post-6643-1381928172095_thumb.jpg

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Here is some baffles for ten inch woofers.

A piece is glued on the back of the baffle, the baffle is then cut out to the outside diameter of the ten inch woofer so it rests on the piece glued to the back of the motorboard which is cut a smaller diameter.

The same thing is done with the picture in the last post.

post-6643-1381928172214_thumb.jpg

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Moon, I don't think PWK thought the 3/4 'lip' would make a hill of beans difference to the woofer in terms of 'diffraction', but then again remember that the CW rear mounted every driver, probably for the sake of ease of manufacturer.

If it were me, I'd surface mount the K79 and mid horn. btw, the K79 has big lip on it like K601, so it will easily surface mount with like a 3/16" routed recess. Not like the K77. I'd just leave the K33 rear mounted, you want that one really secure. I can't believe they used only 4 wood screws on those. I'd use Tnuts and bolts if I were doing it today.

Those grilles sound neat. Do you have the plastic waffle material yet?

Michael

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A K33 is much thicker when front mounted than a K34, nothing will be left of the motorboard if you flush mount it.

Consider cutting a 15-1/4" hole for the K33, and cutting a 14" hole in a 17" ring mounted to the back of the motor board.

A K77 may be flush mounted with the Klipsch 'Z' bracket, and have moretite fill the gaps from the back.

Consider the wavelengths of the frequencies involved, flush mounting makes more of a difference on the tweeter than on the woofer or mid.

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Consider the wavelengths of the frequencies involved, flush mounting makes more of a difference on the tweeter than on the woofer or mid.

I wantedto make sure that I'm on the same page as you guys. What do you guys consider flush mounting?

A) When you rout a recess in the motorboard for the woofer/horns to fit into and thus the body of the driver is flush with the motorboard and does not extrude?

B) There is no recess at all and the woofer/horn just sits on top of the motorboard?

I'm trying to understand how flush mounting would affect the waves of the tweeter. Are you saying that both horns and the woofer need to be on an even plane?

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Also I was hoping someone could do me another favor. Post a nice clear picture of a Cornwall II with the grill removed. I need to see how the spacing of the horns and how they are laid out. If someone has dimensions as well, that would be excellent. [:)]

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