SamS Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Hi all, On Saturday, I picked up (what should be my last!) pair of Cornwalls. See ebay auction for more pics. Overall, I'm very satisfied with the sound and cosmetics. Since I took them home and wiped them down, I've applied a coat of the Watco Rejuvenating Oil to them daily. I got them from the original owner, didn't appear to have ever had any wood treatment to them. There are several light nicks/scratches on the tops. So light, in fact, that they'd be hard to see without good lighting. Can't even make them show up in pics, but they are there. Also, I think I see a water mark, but I'm not 100% that its not just the veneer. Is there any easy way to remove? Have I gone too far by already starting the Watco treatment? -Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Articles/jeff/using_wood_bleach.htm The stain is caused by minerals in the water. See the link above for the various types of removal processes. Looks like an oxalic process canidate. Personally, i would leave them as is. I would not use any of the removal processes unless I had test samples to work with. The coatings recieved, to include what your doing now, may change the out come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamS Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 Interesting! The stain is not so bad to warrant a chemical bleaching process. It looks worse in the pic than in person. I was thinking it may be diminished if I attempted some sanding. However, sanding seems risky, as overall they are a 9/10 cosmetically and I'd be nervous that the tops would not match the sides after a sanding and oiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 sanding is certainly more risky than bleaching. the oxalic acid method targets mineral stains. Your right about the noticability of the stain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Sam, I am also hesitant about attempting to bleach the stain. My expereince has not been positive. Using chlorine bleach is not the preferred method, oxalic acid would be (as already mentioned) . The trick is that when you apply it you need to then remove it to stop the action. One common complaint is that while you are waiting for it to work the following sequence occurs: nothing is happening, then nothing is happening, then nothing is happeneing, then all of the sudden it has bleached far too much. If you sand, take it very easy and go with the grain and go easy on the edges. Sanding is not a great way to remove stains, it is best for removing light scratches. An important point: what is the finish on the cabinets? The original finish is indicated on the label on back. Good luck, -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamS Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 They are oiled walnut. The scraches I'd hoped to remove are of the type you'd get from just setting things off/on them for 30+ years. Only noticble with direct light shining on them, not from a distance. I can't get them to show up via camera, but they are there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triceratops Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 Sam, I'm going to differ with most of the advice you've gotten so far. I don't think it is that risky to sand the Walnut veneer provided: 1. It has not already been sanded 2. Use hand sanding only, with the grain and fine grit paper. 3. Work outside in good light and go very slowly. 4. Avoid rounding corners and edges. I'll bet that stain comes out in the first few microns of sanding! It will probably smooth out the grain too, which might feel raised a little bit where the stain is. You can see how thick the walnut veneer is by looking at the raw edge on the back. It's not very thick--but it is MUCH thicker than the Baltic Birch veneer which is practically paper thin! You've really got to be really careful to sand the Birch cabs! Good Luck! triceratops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 I would get some BLO and some 400 grit sand paper and pour the BLO on the sand paper and speaker then sand it.Im sure it will take out the stain and scratches as well oil your finish then just dry with clean towel.Do not keep BLO soaked rags in the house though.I used this method on my reveneered Ks to smooth the grain out and that veneer was alot thinner than the stock veneer on your Cornwalls.Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triceratops Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 Yeah, what Rick said! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 old english scratch remover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamS Posted August 8, 2006 Author Share Posted August 8, 2006 Lots of good info! I'm a bit nervous about just how 400 grit sandpaper + BLO (or Old English Scratch remover?) will affect the color. I don't want the tops where I sand to be different from the sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay481985 Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 old english comes in two colors light and dark. I meant it to remove just the scratches and not the watermark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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