mark1101 Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 For anyone that has the AK-3 networks and either wanted to try different networks or reinstall the orignals, the issue is that the wires are soldered directly to the components on the board. No terminal strips. The only way to remove the networks is to unsolder or cut the wires. Then, no easy way to reuse the networks. I installed some terminal strips for easy connect / disconnect when switching networks. I did this both on the high frequency boards, and in the bass bin. Some before and after pictures to follow. Sorry about picture quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 Here's the problem, a "before" picture of the high frequency boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 Here's the "fix". Now I can swap networks and the AK-3 is back into the rotation[]. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 Here's a shot of the bass bin original connections before they were cut for another network to be installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 Here's the bass bin now. Everything in the bass bin was crimped, then soldered. Now I can easily use the AK-3 woofer filter, or not. It is easily bypassed by moving a couple of wires. Then I can use other networks if I want, and easily come back to the original with no more cutting and/or soldering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 I figured this must be a fairly common problem. It would be nice if there was some sort of upgrade kit so DIYers could add these updates. It took me all afternoon yesterday since I don't do this kind of work very often. It was fairly easy and straight forward. The AK-3s are nice sounding networks. I think the ones I have would benefit from some cap upgrades. I'll probably look into doing that since the AK-3 boards are so easy to work on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 thats a good approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 Here's a shot of the bass bin original connections before they were cut for another network to be installed. What kind of twit would simply cut the wires?...sheesh... [*-)] [8-)] Looks like you did a nice job salvaging them! [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Klappenberger Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 Guys, The AK-2 network is similar to the AK-3 but looks different. Here's the the instructions I include in the users guide with my networks. This shows how to bypass all the stuff in the woofer hatch. To make it "selectable" will take some extra thinking. Al K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted August 14, 2006 Author Share Posted August 14, 2006 What kind of twit would simply cut the wires?...sheesh... [*-)] [8-)] What kind of twit would solder 12 ga. monster cable from a driver directly to a cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 [*-)] [8-)] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted August 14, 2006 Author Share Posted August 14, 2006 OK...maybe a little harsh on the Klipsch folks.[:$] Yeah...it was probably the previous owner's fault for cutting all the wires. I don't know if twit is the proper word though. You never know who you might run into these days...it's such a small world. [li] Nothing a terminal strip couldn't take care of anyhow.[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meagain Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 I'm trying to understand this... How can you swap crossovers by doing this? If you just wanted to test the squawk/tweet with the woofer not involved - where would you put the speaker wire? I have a total mental block about this, but I really need to be able to swap things around right now. IDK how to power the ak-3 if it's in another speaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 What I didn't show was that I also crimped ends on the drivers for use in a conventional sense. They were formerly soldered directly to the caps and such as shown in the first picture. The cut wires were the driver wires. So....now the AK-3s can be swapped in and out like any other networks. In an AK-3 the woofer filter is in the bass bin. But what if you want to swap in an AA or an ALK or something on a single board. You can now go into the bass bin and move a couple of wires without cutting to bypass the components of the AK-3 filter that are in the bass bin. Basically run the woofer direct to the top section so a single board or other type network can be wired in. The AK-3 can be put back at any time by just moving a couple of wires. Get it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meagain Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 Yea, I understand what you're trying to do, but I guess for me, I was thinking of a way to eliminate having the woofer x-over in the bass bin and perch it in the top hat. Actually, I'm not even getting the purpose of having it in the bin. I'd think it wouldn't be the best idea for the parts or the real estate in the bin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Lisa, As you can see I wasn't trying to do it...the pictures are real. I actually did it. [] I agree with you, and that's why I did it. My networks are in the top hat now and I bypassed the components in the bin as I described. But...if I wanted to return to the AK-3 I could just reconnect the wires in the bin and install the board in the top section. No more cutting any wires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meagain Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 But you're saying to do this, you have to physically go into the bass bin to 'turn off' that x-over. Right? LOL I give up on this. Total mental block. Fuses, etc. to deal with. I can understand swapping bass bin doors if they'd fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted February 20, 2007 Author Share Posted February 20, 2007 Yes...you are correct and have it right. I would need to physically go into the bass bin and move wires on the terminal strip I put in there. The only time I would probably do that is to neatly restore the speakers to stock if I ever wanted to sell them. This was something I did since everything was already cut up when I bought the speakers. I had to decide on how to put them back together and this is the option I took. When I bought the speakers from Richard he was using Al's ES nets and the AK-3s had been removed. The components in the bass bin had been permanently bypassed by cutting and soldering. I didn't purchase the ES nets at the time only the speakers (my fault)...and so I went home with everything disassembled and had to "something" to put it all back together. I knew I would eventually get some aftermarket networks but I also wanted to hear the Khorns as they came from the factory stock...first. This was how I chose to reassemble so I could use either the stock networks or aftermarket ones (all in the top hat section), and switch them out fairly easily with no cutting and/or soldering. Don't think about it too hard. [] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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