Anybody used paper backed veneer?

[greg928gts]

Hi everyone, it's been a while.

I finally have my new shop done enough to use it and I've got a few re-veneer projects coming up. I'm just wondering if anyone has used paper backed veneer and if you know of any problems that anyone has had with using it.

As you know, I've been doing a lot of raw wood veneer with the Titebond wood glue and an iron. But I've had a lot of problems with bubbling, so much so that it's really soured me on the iron-on method of veneering.

Before I did my first veneer project, I inquired on this forum and got some advice from a member who I trust to know about these things. He specifically said to use NBL backed veneer and not paper backed veneer. I don't remember the reasoning. I did use NBL backed veneer on the rosewood Khorns that I eventually traded with JFL for my Horus amplifiers. They came out beautifully, but there were drawbacks to using NBL, and by the fourth or fifth veneer project, I had switched to the iron-on method.

But I've been corresponding recently with another guy who has reveneered a pair of Cornwalls with paper backed veneer, and he sent a little sample piece to look at. I like the looks of this veneer. It's got the thickness of the actual wood veneer to really be able to sand it and work with it, plus the edges won't show the backer like with NBL. With NBL, the actual wood veneer is paper thin, and the backer is thick, just the opposite of the paper backed veneer. With the paper backing, I can use contact cement, which I've had much better results from, with no bubbling issues.

I think paper backed veneer might be just the ticket for me. But I'd like to hear from you guys.

Thanks, Greg

[BS Button]

Greg,

On Colter's Heresy's (his now) I used the iron on method with paper backed and had no issues with bubbling, at all.

BS

[klipschaholik]

I think we both were doing some rosewood veneering about a year ago. I had terrible problems with splitting using the iron on method. I was using raw unbacked veneer though and humidity is a real b**** in the south. I have recently finished veneering some heresys with raw cherry however I've switched to contact cement and I don't thing I'll ever pick up the iron again. I'm currently, as we speak veneering another pair with makore and will update my thread later today. I would like to give the paper backed material a try, I just haven't found any at the Ebay right price.

[Dylanl]

Greg, I think you wil have no problem with the method you described. Contact cement seems to be the way to go. I have been told to avoid it with raw wood veneer because some oils from the wood may react with it.

I also used the NBL on my 1st set of Khorns and did them in Teak. If you work it correctly you should not see the seams.

If you would be so kind please send me a few photos of your Rosewood pair to:

MSI_brett@comcast.net

[hififreq]

I am just finishing up my La Scalas done in paper-backed Cherry veneer.

I used Titebond II and did the iron on method. It has worked out great.

The seams look great, and so far everythings stayed put. I've had to

re-heat some edges, but once I do they stay. I got my veneer from

www.boulterplywood.com

Corey

[jorjen]

Hey Greg,

You probably do not remember, but I used 10 mil paper backed on the Cherry Cornwall's(Titebond II) and the Rosewood Khorns(Weldwood contact). You have seen pictures of those, so we know how they turned out. After our discussion on veneering the Khorns, I did however use raw Rosewood to edgeband the Khorns.

We also talked about some lack of depth and/or dimension in the grain of the backed veneers compared to raw. Not a glaring point, but it is visible.

Just as an aside, I will never use the iron on method again either.

[greg928gts]

Sorry for the delay, my business has got me hopping these days.

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Thanks BS, glad to hear it worked out for you. Im looking forward to trying it myself.

Klipschaholik I had bad problems with splitting with raw unbacked oak veneer. I also had some problems with the rosewood. I guess I dont really know how one is supposed to work with raw wood veneer and get a successful job.

Dylanl Go Steelers! I cant figure out which game to go see this year. Maybe the <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" />Denver game. If youd like to see pictures of the rosewood Khorns, go here www.dcchomes.com/RosewoodKhorn.html

Corey I think if youre using paper backed veneer, youll find the contact cement is a lot easier and more effective.

Jordan I think with the thickness of the actual wood part of the paper backed veneer, the difference in texture or depth will be nil. Anything one might perceive as more texture and depth with raw wood veneer compared to paper backed is really only the flaws of the raw wood; i.e. the splitting, separation of the grain, bleed through of glue, etc

I see that a few have tried the iron-on method and will not go back. I hope I didnt cause too many problems for people with my promotion of the method. I havent had time to change my webpages to reflect my troubles with it.

Thanks all for your input.

Greg