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Question on RCA's


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First, can someone answer this question? What are the basic differences between home audio and automotive(aftermarket) audio RCA's. I was under the impression that products like Stinker and Tsunami would be of higher grade since shielding and current needs are greater in the automotive application.

Having said/asked the question, I intend on firing up the ENTIRE system this weekend w/my rebuilt B-2 networks (courtesy of Bob Crites). We only have CC (Circuit City), BB (Best Buy) available for accessing high-quality RCAs.

If you see my sig, please guide me toward obtaining a GOOD set of RCA's that won't bankrupt me.

Thanks

Mark

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I've used several sorts of RCAs and don't find any problem with even the oldest and cheapest.

As I've written in the past, you can't make things better by solving a problem which doesn't exist in the first place. The high end manufacturers seem to be doing just that.

Physically the high end one are of a fancy design. They look good in pictures. The little old electrons can't see the prictures.

One issue you bring up is current. Actually RCA's are used in high impedance circuits. That means that in Ohms law: Impedance = Voltage / Current. Voltage is low, about 1 volt. This means current is very, very low.

I have never seen any description of a sheilding issue created or solved by RCA connectors.

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I will say that I've found super RCA's to create physical problems. The collar grips with so much force that getting them on or off the female "jack" requires great force. The stiff extension is probably there to prevent bending of the wire. But this just creates a longer lever to warp the jack.

As a result, I only buy cheaper Radio Shack. Gold plating is about as fancy as I get.

Gil

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One issue you bring up is current. Actually RCA's are used in high impedance circuits. That means that in Ohms law: Impedance = Voltage / Current. Voltage is low, about 1 volt. This means current is very, very low.

I know my automotive setup is pushing a 7v preout from my EQ to the amps, and almost performs as a line-driver, so I figured a pro-series set of RCA's would maximize my output. I have to keep switching hats when we talk AC/DC (lol).

O, and let's not forget impedence differences too! GRRRRRR!

Thanks for the responses, and I have some mediocre RCA's for the home system, but figured I'd ask.

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Monster cable plugs have the problem Gil mentioned, that the collar is so tight as to cause problems pushing them on or pulling them off the jacks, so I'd be cautious about getting that brand. There are RCA plugs, such as WBT's, that have tightening collars which are easy to put on, but can then be cinched down very tight and be almost impossible to pull off without loosening the collar. However, those plugs, and the cables that use them, are quite expensive.

I'd suggest staying away from thin, very cheap cables, as very thin conducting wire can degrade the sound.

Whatever you do, I'd suggest getting ready-made cables rather than trying to solder on your own plugs. Today's plug designs are so small and user-unfriendly that it's just not worth trying to solder your own unless you know what you're getting into.

Larry

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  • 2 weeks later...

I originally purchased some AR interconnects at BB because the barrels were the old standard size, which would fit on my vintage Scott amps. The spacing of the RCA jacks were too close for most current manufacture RCA's. They are as good as anything else IMO and reasonably priced.

I'm pretty much a wire is wire type, so don't put much money in IC's.

I have liked Tributaries speaker wire and interconnects, also. There's a guy that sells them reasonably on Ebay. "wiremeister" if he's still out there.

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