Erik Mandaville Posted December 23, 2006 Author Share Posted December 23, 2006 "Hmm" Threading not the same in this case. Thanks, Dee. I wanted something that people could also use for crossovers or the terminal strips on Heresies, and this is working fine. Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pauln Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 I don't get it - what's wrong with putting a bare wire end to a screw? You just shape it like a backwards question mark and drive the screw... How much connecting, disconnecting, and reconnecting ( I suppose we should logically include redisconnecting) are you guys doing, anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott0527 Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 I don't get it - what's wrong with putting a bare wire end to a screw? You just shape it like a backwards question mark and drive the screw... How much connecting, disconnecting, and reconnecting ( I suppose we should logically include redisconnecting) are you guys doing, anyway? Paul, I would bet that very few here use anything thinner than 16GA. Most of today's 16GA and thicker wire does not form into the neat little loopy in your diagram. 16 GA might make it but try taking a piece of 14GA and stuffing it onto a vintage terminal strip. It gets messy. Erik that is pretty cool little hook up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott0527 Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 Scott, Where do you get them for that price? Ditto!! My normal supplier is up to $6.35 for a pair.......... Fini, Craig, Sorry guyss that was little vague, looks like the last set of 4 I bought for $9.99 plus $6.75 shipping and handling. He changed is price to $13.99 but only charges $3.75 shipping and handling. If it's less than $20 these days it doesn't register in my brain very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 From whom, Scott, from whom??[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott0527 Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 From whom, Scott, from whom??[] Just some ebay guy. These have been fine for me. http://cgi.ebay.com/BANANA-PLUG-ADAPTERS-for-MCINTOSH-AMPLIFIER-NEW-U-S_W0QQitemZ290064904454QQihZ019QQcategoryZ50593QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshnich Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 I have bought the same connectors on Parts Express but I cannot fond the link. They are about half what the ebay guy charges. (In the great big scheme its on a few bucks!) Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshnich Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 OK They are 5.95 a pair at Parts Connection. Go to this link and go to the bottom of the page and click on spades and banana plugs scroll down and fond the ONIX fork spades. http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/connectors.html ONIX- 70022 G-Fork Spade, right-angled, gold-plated brass spade Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1stcav Posted December 23, 2006 Share Posted December 23, 2006 I suppose using unterminated 11 AWG cable on my Mac's terminal strip was an accident just waiting to happen, eh? Never did have a mishap, though...guess I was extremely lucky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike stehr Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 Hmm, you might be able to screw the chassis-mount binding post directly into the terminal strip, if the threads are the same (saving one connection). Is that what you did, Mike? I just took the screws, and metal contacts off the phenolic board. The screw holes through the phenolic board were smaller than the post shaft, and I had to hog them out a bit for the binding post to slide through. The board isn't very rigid, and will crack eventually from the binding posts being bumped or tugged on. The way I like to do it is pattern the original terminal strip with aluminum sheet or steel, drill holes for the binding posts, and then mount the piece to the chassis where the original terminal strips are mounted. Using the original screw mounting holes. The posts have plastic isolation washers so they are not grounded to the chassis, and dual nuts. I've had them work loose if they are not really tight, however. I may try a lockwasher between the two...... Erik, You get the abject poverty audiophile award.....that's a good idea. A really good idea for use with testing, bread-boarding, and bench use. Can you still unscrew the cap to thread in bare wire? The radio shack posts are fine posts to use, I just wish they were about two times bigger. The holes only really accept 16 awg more or less, and the larger banana jacks won't fit...(I think) I just connect to the posts with the raw wire, and these Dayton posts make it quick and fast. (Though stripping the wire back is a periodic thing.....) I got a bunch of these RS posts, I'll have to build a few of the spade posts......now you got me pondering....I cana use the Dayton binding posts with a heavier spade, and then use them to connect to the Cornwall terminal posts. No more loop the wire through the screw burnout......your a inspiration...... Nice work, Jim. Look's like something I'd pull.[] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Mandaville Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 Mike: "You get the abject poverty audiophile award.....that's a good idea. A really good idea for use with testing, bread-boarding, and bench use. Can you still unscrew the cap to thread in bare wire? " LOL! Thanks for the compliment! You're right about the convenience for testing and frequent connecting disconnecting, and that's really the reason behind the idea. I think it works well enough for long term use too, though. Radio Shack sells some other binding posts that IMO give somewhat better or more complete contact for bananas, and I used that the first time around. The problem was that it didn't lend itself to this design as well as the one I ended up using. Yeah, it's still possible to bare wire with this, and the plastic knob also contains a threaded metal skirt, and it can withstand a little more torque. The other binding post I tried had plastic threads which tended to strip even with moderate tightening. I've used the bare wire under the screw technique thousands of time, but it tears at the conductors and to me just looks kind of....well, sort of untidy. Each to his/her own, though. Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Mandaville Posted December 24, 2006 Author Share Posted December 24, 2006 Thanks Scott! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott0527 Posted December 24, 2006 Share Posted December 24, 2006 I suppose using unterminated 11 AWG cable on my Mac's terminal strip was an accident just waiting to happen, eh? Never did have a mishap, though...guess I was extremely lucky! McIntosh terminals are actually designed pretty well for bare wires. You stick the wire underneath the little metal spade and smash it down with the screw. And they have the plastic "wall" in between each terminal. It's those types like Erik showed in his first picture that are tough to use with bare wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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