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KP-250 Crossover Discussion


BEC

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I don't know how many are interested in such stuff, but thought I would post a bit about some KP-250 crossovers on the bench here this weekend.

I am repairing and rebuild them two sets of them. The sets are a bit different, even though they are labeled the same.

Here is one variety.

Notice that this one has zener diodes for tweeter protection. These are 9.1 volt 10 watt zeners rather than the 5.1 volt zeners we see in the AA crossovers.

Bob Crites



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This is the schematic that came from Klipsch. I took the liberty to label the attenuation (3 db measured) for the autotransformer that feeds the squawker. Notice the rather elaborate band bass on the squawker. Also note the polarity reversal for both the squawker and tweeter.

Bob Crites


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Thanks for posting Bob, say I just got a pair of KP250's myself, haven't taken a look inside but they are loud and pretty smooth, although down a bit on the low end.

Could you give a read of what that network is doing? And I wonder when/if mine need updating?

I'm getting a pair of Heresies with your networks and CT125's soon, that should be fun listening compared to the other pairs I have around here.

Do those KP250's have the cloth grille with perf board behind the woofer section? I thought it an awful 'pretty' grille for an industrial set. Would have preferred perf metal like my 201's have.

Michael

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Michael,


I haven't seen the speakers, just the crossovers.  They are a mess.  The zener diodes are shot and I can't imagine how much power went into the speakers to fry the diodes.  Been "Rode hard and put away wet" as we are prone to say 'round these parts.

Looks like the crossovers are a good design to me and my spectrum analyzer.  

The caps are moderately bad on ESR and need replacing.  I will get them fixed up.  

Bob Crites
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I haven't seen the fuse.  It would be on the back of the cabinet I suppose.  I am still marveling at how they managed to get the 20 watts to the tweeter zeners it would take to burn them up.  Guess a big honking 20 amp input fuse would help be able to do that.  Let's see, we normally think of about 2 percent of the total energy going to the tweeter, so we know we got at least 20 watts to them.  So total power into the speaker would calculate to 1000 watts.  That is good, looks like the fuse would blow at 3200 watts if it is an 8 ohm speaker.


Bob

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Klipsch shipped PRO gear with massive fuses so they would be sure to work in all conditions. There was an instruction sheet that gave PROPER values to use for either the voltage or the speaker attached to the fused circuit.

Leaving a 20 amp fuse in place and expecting any degree of driver protection would not be appropriate.

I'll see if I can find the fuse chart and post it here.

Michael

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Mark,


I used a 47 uF non-polarized for that.  Why did you not just use a 68 uF non-polarized for yours?  What values did you series there?  If you put two 68 uF in series (for instance) you would have a total of 34 uF.  In parallel, the two 68 uF would total 136 uF.

Bob

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Bob, I used 68uf . It's been along time since I went to school. I thought putting them in series would keep the value the same. Alright I guess I need to fix that. So what would 34uf do to the performance of the woofer? Thanx for your help again.

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Bob, I used 68uf . It's been along time since I went to school. I thought putting them in series would keep the value the same. Alright I guess I need to fix that. So what would 136uf do to the performance of the woofer? Thanx for your help again.


Anything other than the specified value for that cap will change the woofer roll off frequency.  Stay with the specified value.

Bob

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks for the info Bob.

It looks to me that the schemetic shows a second order bandpass for the mid. And of course second order in the bass as third order in the tweeter.

Is not the unit as a whole a Hersey for professional use?

I wonder if the HIII uses a similar topology.

From what is out there, PWK favored running the mids with a simple high pass. This was, therefore, quite a break with tradition.

Wm McD

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There have been a lot of stripped-down pro speakers sold on eBay recently. I just missed a pair of KP201 (ProH II) networks, but picked up a 5-pack of horns, drivers, and nets for KSM2 monster monitors. I've also seen parts for 250's sold separately.

Makes me wonder what the difference between a H II and KP201 network might be. To my ears, I really enjoy the 201 sound (it beats the 250 in smoothness of range), but most folks prefer a H over H II. Could it be the network?

Here's the primer:

Heresy

Heresy Industrial HI and Heresy Industrial Ported HIP feature K42 woofers and pro networks

H II = KP201 (same components exactly but different networks), there is also a HP1, Heresy Pro that predates the KP201 and has HII network.

KP250 is heavy duty components and differnet network, is also ported for more db at sacrifice of low end

HIII features different internals completely

In some curves and listening evaluations that Doc and I did years ago, we preferred the Heresy and KP201 over the HIP and KP250 in a volume balanced comparison. The ported models were somewhat louder overall, but sacrificed bass to do so. These models would frequently be used with the the 'speaker on a stick' setup over a sub bin (KP115 generally), so that would smooth out overall response.

M

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